tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
No, you remove the fan and the cowl from memory.
kapilamuni
Active Member
How reliable are these? could be Chinese.......
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Which?
Just make sure the radiator is clear of debris. And that the viscous fan is working properly. If you have a pre 1999 model you can rig the aircon fans to assist cooling in extreme conditions as per Keith's mod. But removing the viscous and shroud that draws air through the entire radiator surface area and fitting an electric fan that draws air through a relatively small area seems a bit daft to me. That is why after second thoughts i never fitted the 17" electric fan i bought.
Good thought, I'm looking at a 45cm which is the same size as my old dead viscous fan. The dilemma is whether or not to put the cowling back on with it?? The present albeit smaller fan doesn't use the cowling as it was removed. The bus sits all the time just before tdc on the temp gauge.
kapilamuni
Active Member
Freelander TD4 uses the same kit- the fan & the Alternator (150A).
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
They used a P5 as a mule for development,, (and a Jet race car was actually built and still exists) but the only influence regarding the suspension between P6 and RR was surely just the desire for long travel suspension?
P6 had longitudinal bulkhead mounted front springs operated via a bell crank off the vertical 'strut' with a normal bottom control arm....
Rear was a fixed diff with trailing arms and upper torque reaction links, both hubs were connected by a telescopically active DeDion tube which induced a modicum of rear steer, or maybe track correction?
Interesting factoid....the Citroen DS body structure was very similar in concept.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
The jet car is or was in the Science museum in London
I must take the lad there again one day.
I didn't know it was tried out in the p5, the idea of the coils was it being superior to the leaf spring on the series landys. The inboard brakes on the diff were a nightmare to change...
kapilamuni
Active Member
Here is a picture..........
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
Apologies, it may have been the P4, the 'Auntie' as they were affectionately referred to.I didn't know it was tried out in the p5, the idea of the coils was it being superior to the leaf spring on the series landys. The inboard brakes on the diff were a nightmare to change...
Update!!
Ok then, it got a bit warm here this weekend. Set off Saturday, 36° on the hevac display.
Aircon full blast, sat in traffic, the electric fan and Aircon fans all blazing.
It started to raise the temperature gauge upward!!
Pulled over and lowered the electric fan thermostat down a bit to cut in sooner. After a cooling down session it seemed all good.
Back on the road and it started to raise again this time at speed. 70mph.
Aircon off and it settled back to 12 o'clock.??
It sat in the garage this afternoon with the bonnet shut and the Aircon on full blast! Engine in neutral and raised to 2000rpm. Not a movement in site ??
The coolant was changed earlier this year and never ever overheats!!!
Last year the water pump and thermostat were done also. No leaks apart from my axle seal......
Any body?
Ok then, it got a bit warm here this weekend. Set off Saturday, 36° on the hevac display.
Aircon full blast, sat in traffic, the electric fan and Aircon fans all blazing.
It started to raise the temperature gauge upward!!
Pulled over and lowered the electric fan thermostat down a bit to cut in sooner. After a cooling down session it seemed all good.
Back on the road and it started to raise again this time at speed. 70mph.
Aircon off and it settled back to 12 o'clock.??
It sat in the garage this afternoon with the bonnet shut and the Aircon on full blast! Engine in neutral and raised to 2000rpm. Not a movement in site ??
The coolant was changed earlier this year and never ever overheats!!!
Last year the water pump and thermostat were done also. No leaks apart from my axle seal......
Any body?
Nailed it!! Bigger fans!!! More fans!!!
Take the bonnet off?
I considered lifting the rear of the bonnet, I did remove the bonnet front rubber strip under neath to allow an airflow over the top of the engine... That's the theory.. that or.. dare I say it..
Bonnet grills...
Run...
Take the bonnet off?
I considered lifting the rear of the bonnet, I did remove the bonnet front rubber strip under neath to allow an airflow over the top of the engine... That's the theory.. that or.. dare I say it..
Bonnet grills...
Run...
ukadamwest
Well-Known Member
unless you are a midget prostitute !
There's a bit of science behind this...
Vents and so on, lifting the rear of the bonnet is a no no..
Vents and so on, lifting the rear of the bonnet is a no no..
Goc3k
Well-Known Member
Rads had its day, if the water pump + thermostat are good and there is water rather than air in the system
Before I owned the bus, it had a new radiator every year for three years??
Turned out the bigger intercooler has a risen weld bead that was rubbing into the core? I solved that by lightly filing the bead and fitting cork in-between the two rads.
Wammers said fan shroud a while ago... (he's always right)
Time to rip out and rebuild the fan setup with a shroud this time...
**** fück... Answer found I think...
Home work required, I had removed the original shroud as well. I do still have it and I'll have to make an other to suit the fan position. It's offset to miss the water pump pulley.
Goc3k
Well-Known Member
Is the radiator getting limited airflow owing to this cork / big intercooler? or is it just a tiny bit?
Wammers said fan shroud a while ago... (he's always right)
This is true, (on both counts hah). Don't forget though there will be enormous airflow over the rad at 70mph, more than the fan would deliver so may well hint at other issues
But, did they all suck? Modern aftermarket plastic tanked single core / pass radiators are really very poor compared to an original one.
Next step I'd say is temporarily forget the fan, go for a fast drive (50+mph over 7-8 miles at least) - park up switch off after a moment or two when finished and quickly go and put your hand on the radiator, it should be too hot to hold comfortably at the inlet and significantly cooler at the outlet on the other side. If the whole thing is roasting, you have a lack of airflow over it (and remember at high speed the fan is irrelevant) - if the whole thing is only modestly warm or not much of a drop across it the rad is not working efficiently, and if it has hot and cold spots then its clogged with sediment, which is probably unlikely if it is near new. If it is one of those nasty cheap single pass ones that might simply be the problem in this balmy weather we're having.
Any photos of the setup?
