marjon said:
Ok well I missed that.

But knowing LR the signal could be anything.
Square wave or PWM type stuff so a DVM won’t see it. (I have no idea what they are :vb-confused2: ). But sounds in the oscilloscope stuff.

Need to Read the docs again it explained conditions needed to kick in fan.

J
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I agree, I think I suggested a while back that the signal might not be a changing level but a pulse train.
 
Datatek said:
I agree, I think I suggested a while back that the signal might not be a changing level but a pulse train.
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You did indeed. Just spoke to an indy, he said try keeping fan plugged in, de-pinning the command wire from fan side of the plug and giving it 12v direct. I'm reticent to do that tbh what you reckon?
 
1988smithy said:
Just spoke to an indy, he said try keeping fan plugged in, de-pinning the command wire from fan side of the plug and giving it 12v direct. I'm reticent to do that tbh what you reckon?
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Maybe he’s thinking is default is to run?? If something is wrong?

J
 
1988smithy said:
You did indeed. Just spoke to an indy, he said try keeping fan plugged in, de-pinning the command wire from fan side of the plug and giving it 12v direct. I'm reticent to do that tbh what you reckon?
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The problem with putting 12 volts on the command pin of the fan is that if it expects pulses, it is likely to fry something in the fan. You could try putting 12 volts via a 5 watt bulb which is less likely to cause damage. You could also try applying ground via the bulb. A 3K3 resistor or a similar value would be even better than the bulb.
Either way, if the fan speed is pulse driven, it may prove nothing.
 
Datatek said:
The problem with putting 12 volts on the command pin of the fan is that if it expects pulses, it is likely to fry something in the fan. You could try putting 12 volts via a 5 watt bulb which is less likely to cause damage. You could also try applying ground via the bulb. A 3K3 resistor or a similar value would be even better than the bulb.
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See, this is why I should stop messing. I'll get it in at a specialist and report back 👍🏻

Edit..what about a 5w fuse?
 
1988smithy said:
See, this is why I should stop messing. I'll get it in at a specialist and report back 👍🏻

Edit..what about a 5w fuse?
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Semiconductors blow faster than any fuse.
The problem with "specialists" is that they can empty your wallet quicker than they can find the fault, that's if they ever do find it. JLR electronics are so complex that few actually understand them fully or have the means to test, usually they just swap parts in the hope of finding a cure.
 
Datatek said:
Semiconductors blow faster than any fuse.
The problem with "specialists" is that they can empty your wallet quicker than they can find the fault, that's if they ever do find it. JLR electronics are so complex that few actually understand them fully or have the means to test, usually they just swap parts in the hope of finding a cure.
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I'll go with an auto spark specialist mate, there's a few around here with good feedback 👍🏻
 
This is from the L322 2003 V8 RAVE section, which has a single electric fan together with the engine driven viscous one. Chances are they used the same electric fan on several models.

Nowhere does it say what type of control signal is used, so it could be PWM, variable voltage, etc.

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Had the leccy fan go bad on my 2004 it would kind of stutter on start up like it didnt know which way to rotate then stop at which point a/c would cut out, got a second hand one in the end that fixed it. There are electronics in the motor casing as well as the motor and yes they do do the stutter thing on start up another member on here had same thing with his td6.
 
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