jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
located on chassis under bulkhead if theres a loss of pressure ie front or rear valve shuts that line off and puts warning light on
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
it may well be fine , its not something ive had a lot of trouble with
d90matt
New Member
Well il have a look but unsure what im looking for haha
So whats thaughts on what to check next as im at a loss what to do next
If fluid is making its way out of bleed nipples with bit of help from pedel and have a faint rear brake but pedel right to floor its as if the cylinders arnt pushing out far enough or not enough pressure ??
Its just odd that the fronts are so good with rears clamped off
So whats thaughts on what to check next as im at a loss what to do next
If fluid is making its way out of bleed nipples with bit of help from pedel and have a faint rear brake but pedel right to floor its as if the cylinders arnt pushing out far enough or not enough pressure ??
Its just odd that the fronts are so good with rears clamped off
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
what happens if you clamp fronts , you either have air leak or too much shoe travel
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
in which case its definitely a rear issue ,masters piped up correctly front most outlet to rear brakes ,rearmost to fronts
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
with that m/c single rear pipe is for rears,if your getting air in its got a leak somewhere,the rod in servo for m/c can be adjusted to reduce pedal free travel
robertjohnwood
New Member
I have the same problem with my swb 2a, I`m thinking of replacing the master cylinder
as I am having difficulty getting a pedal. When I pump the pedal it does not lose pressure until the pedal is released.
as I am having difficulty getting a pedal. When I pump the pedal it does not lose pressure until the pedal is released.
it shouldn't lose pressure until the pedal is released, it sounds like you mean "i don't get a solid pedal unless i pump it" (which would indicate you need to adjust the brake shoes correctly)
if that isn't what you meant you best rethink the wording of your problem
robertjohnwood
New Member
NiteMare, have no doubt you are right will go back and adjust the brakes again as I may have slackened them off to much. As I understand it tighten till the wheel locks then back off until the wheel turns freely.
i like my brake shoes to very lightly rub the drums on initial adjustment with the wheels still on
i then take it for a mile or two drive and feel if there are any temperature differences on the hubs/wheels at each corner and maybe jack it back up to make a final adjustment, they should be cool to the touch unless the brakes have been worked hard
to be honest i hate the snailcam adjustment system as i consider it to have been the poorest design i've ever seen, even worse when it's 11" drums and there's two on each backplate as trying to get both shoes skimming the drum evenly is a proper headache
i then take it for a mile or two drive and feel if there are any temperature differences on the hubs/wheels at each corner and maybe jack it back up to make a final adjustment, they should be cool to the touch unless the brakes have been worked hard
to be honest i hate the snailcam adjustment system as i consider it to have been the poorest design i've ever seen, even worse when it's 11" drums and there's two on each backplate as trying to get both shoes skimming the drum evenly is a proper headache
robbh
Crazier than a box of frogs on acid
I'm also having this problem. Where i need to pump the pedal to get them to work. I've bled the system 3 times and its still the same
Although i didn't know how to adjust until i just read your reply. :doh: So could my problem be that my shoes are incorrectly adjusted?
I'm also having this problem. Where i need to pump the pedal to get them to work. I've bled the system 3 times and its still the same
So could my problem be that my shoes are incorrectly adjusted?
yes it "could" be ...
are you having to pump the pedal to get minimal travel and a solid pedal ??
if so i'd say it's adjustment 9.5 times out of 10, easy way to check is to clamp the brake hoses and try the pedal you should get minimal if any movementthen take off just one clamp at a time and adjust then test at the pedal
a little thought for those with a 109 that may be experiencing problems after replacing rear rear axle brake shoes, the shoes are handed and there is a "leading" and "trailing" shoe which should not be mixed up as the adjusters don't line up with the posts on the shoes correctly (if mixed up), you "may" get them adjusted and working initially but they can and will most likely hop off the adjusters leaving you with no brakes without warning, so be VERY careful when replacing 109 REAR brake shoes
hope my suggestions help
robertjohnwood
New Member
james martin, I`m having a problem with bleeding the brakes on my series2a. Could you run through the way you isolate the front and rear brakes. Presumably you clamp off the
the rear axle at the flexible pipe then bleed the front as normal then clamp the front flexie and bleed the rear brakes. I am not trained as a mechanic just keeping myself occupied in retirement.
the rear axle at the flexible pipe then bleed the front as normal then clamp the front flexie and bleed the rear brakes. I am not trained as a mechanic just keeping myself occupied in retirement.
