The life time of a product isn't necessarily the amount of time it's use for, or lasts for, or is owned for. Some car manufacturers quote this to be 7 or 10 years. Hence the sealed for life aspect doesn't really apply to us as our vehicles last longer. In general, vcu's are designed with a secrete fluid mix (re-conners don't know the exact spec, they have guessed) and this performs well in normal use on and oft road. After a period of use the fluid changes from the original spec, which causes the vcu to stiffen. When this happens it puts additional stress in the transmission, which may break something. Hence why we test our vcu's to see if they have stiffened and if so, replace them. The 70k miles thing became a popular interval on LZ, but not other forums. theory being to just change it as it's cheaper than the costs of something breaking. Not the perfect solution as vcu's can fail at a lower mileage than this too. There's plenty of discussion on this subject and re-conners are more than happy to quote 70k miles being a fact, backed up by their self imposed expert status. The fact is they have a vested interest as they make money out of vcu's. The best thing to do is test yer vcu. If in doubt remove it (and don't forget to tell yer insurance).
Agree 100% and from experience the one wheel up test an excellent way to confirm if you have a VCU issue. Why certain otherwise reputable companies continue to tell lies to their customers by rubbishing this test is beyond me.
I would love to hear from that well known company with a reasoned argument with figures supplied to back up their stance.
 
Did the one up test on my FL1 TD4 (2005), bought 5 months ago. Not much in terms of history.
110,000miles.
Took about 12 years for the VCU to turn.

1.2m bar w/ 7.5kg weight - 1 min 11 sec



Suppose I should get a new VCU, eh?
 
I would. It's not looking good going that slow and is at a similar mileage to when mine needed replaced.
In fact I'd whip it off pronto to avoid causing damage to IRD or diff.
 
If you lift both rear wheels and spin one the other will turn easily in the opposite direction. If not then the rear brakes are catching or the handbrake. As above it's probably past it's best on miles if it's the original.
 
If you lift both rear wheels and spin one the other will turn easily in the opposite direction. If not then the rear brakes are catching or the handbrake. As above it's probably past it's best on miles if it's the original.

I had to spin the rear wheels in order to rotate the diff mount the other day and they spun fine, so I'm fairly confident that the brakes are alright.
Gonna gonna go with a knackered VCU on this one :oops:
 
For what its worth mine is a 54 plate with 92000 miles 1.2m x 5kg x 45 degrees = 30 seconds.
It does feel a bit tight in reverse but it will not change the engine revs whilst reversing on full lock.
 
Mine feels tight in reverse too but is fine with the test. I think they are tight in reverse even with a new VCU.
 
Mine feels tight in reverse too but is fine with the test. I think they are tight in reverse even with a new VCU.
Your right. There's always a certain amount of resistance across a vcu, even when new. Hence the "tightness" on reserve which some worry about. There's always some, but quantifying it is difficult.
 
Just done the test on my Project K Series. Using a 1.2M bar and 5.2KG, a VCU in decent condition should presumably return a result in the region of 35 seconds. Mine was 3 mins, 2.5 mins and then settled down to a regular 2 mins. So looks like it (desperately) needs a recon. The car hasn't been driven for a few months, but even if it needs some cobwebs cleared, its not going to bring it down to 35 seconds. Temp was 15 degrees.

I know the weight was 5.2KG cos I picked the chains up for #HTR and weighed them for postage :)

 
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Has anyone had a IRD or diff fail with a vcu turning faster than 35 seconds with 5kg's weight?
Even if the VCU is OK, if you've got a tyre low on pressure there will be enought speed difference between front & rear props for the VCU to go into 'hump mode' (ie lock up) and it will kill your IRD or diff. I think that's what happened to my L Series.
 
lucy for me I just fitted 4 new tyres today as all the old tyres were different patterns and depths, I can't understand why if freelanders are so critical on tyres being the same why do we carry a spare wheel? My next investment is a can of tyre weld and an electric pump.
 
lucy for me I just fitted 4 new tyres today as all the old tyres were different patterns and depths, I can't understand why if freelanders are so critical on tyres being the same why do we carry a spare wheel? My next investment is a can of tyre weld and an electric pump.
It's always wise to have a spare tyre as you may catch/damage the rims of a fitted wheel and that can't be fixed at the road side. Same to a blow out or split. Having a spare which isn't the same size as those fitted is a bit of a risk, but not too worrying. New tyres should be fitted to the rear as the difference in greater diameter of the new to eggsisting is reduced when the new/larger is fitted to the rear.
 
Thank you for clearing that one up. Crawled underneath after a six mile spin and felt the VCU that was nearly as cool as when I started, I suppose it will warm up a bit as the exhaust runs along it
 
Even if the VCU is OK, if you've got a tyre low on pressure there will be enought speed difference between front & rear props for the VCU to go into 'hump mode' (ie lock up) and it will kill your IRD or diff. I think that's what happened to my L Series.
Mmmmmm, must get that slow puncture sorted then. Stupid of me to not think it could cause a problem.
 
In the FAQs section there is a VCU torque test, which you can (should) carry out on a regular basis, so you get warning of an impending seizing VCU. This is designed to reduce the chances of screwing up your transmission and having to replace your IRD.
The main problem with this test, at the mo, is that there are no definitive figures as to what a "good" VCU will need to turn.
This is where yu guys with the misfortune;) of having a freelander can help yourself and others.
Do the torque test and post the results below. If you think your VCU is new, unknown, shagged or seized, post that as well, so we can tell what a known one gives.
The more peeps that can do this test, the more likely that a figure ( or more likely a range of figures) can be determined to enable this test to be a reliable and quantify-able test and be of significant value to others.

Go do it - your hippoo needs you!
@The Mad Hat Man how about editing the first post on this thread to give some guidance on the results?

This thread wanders off in various directions (as they all do) and people won't read it to get any meaningful advice. So some consensus advice at the top will be a great help. I think we have enough responses now to come to an 'educated' conclusion/guess. We should still ask people to contribute to help fine tune it.

I tend to think that @B34R's post on the sweet spot thread is pretty good as guidance https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/vcus-the-sweet-spot.291258/page-3#post-3608903

With a 5kg weight:
30-45s all good
45-60s think about changing soon
60s+ daaaaaaanger zooooonee

What do you and other people think?
 
Mmm, Well I have done many one wheel up tests cold and my VCU falls nicely with hippos graph but recently after a spin of around 10 miles (mostly town driving) I noticed it getting tight on forward 3/4 lock and on reverse full lock it kicks back slightly when I press the clutch. Throwing caution into the wind I have now removed it and waiting for my new VCU to be fitted. I have also noticed that the VCU does not get hot, only slightly warm which I would suggest is the exhaust warming it and nothing to do with the shear affect, or is it. What I should have done is the one wheel up test after a 10 mile spin and taken the temperature of it.
 
I'm no expert on new vcu's never having bought one but from what I've read here they feel tight too. Will be interesting to hear your thoughts after you've fitted the new one.
 

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