THEengineer · May 1, 2013

so my fender 300 tdi burns clouds of blue smoke when its started,but clears once running,now the 300 heads can crack with age so is it better to fit a recon head once i have saved the cash up
LAND ROVER 300TDI CYLINDER HEAD KIT COMPLETE - LDF500180COM | eBay
than mess about sorting the seals?looking at the engine the timing belts stay in place so looks a easy head replacement, i dont think the bores are worn as theres no back pressure from the engine,so guys your thoughts on this and can i do this my self,i have changed a few head gaskets before

Oldseadog · May 1, 2013

If you have the means to compress the valve springs, it's easy to change the stem seals.

Make sure that you keep the collets together in pairs and in order, or do them one at a time.

It's certainly cheaper than an exchange head!

mrchurchill109 · May 2, 2013

Valve seals are a few hours work if that and can be done without removiing the head if you rig an air-pressure adapter from a worn-out spark plug or glow plug.

Pressurize the cylinder with air (40-50PSI) and then the valve spring and keeprs can be stripped with no chance of losing the valve down the rabbit hole.

I have a detailed procedure written for this I'll be throwing out on my Web site in the next few days - ping me and I'll send you a URL.

ajr

MoorlandBOB · May 2, 2013

THEengineer said:
so my fender 300 tdi burns clouds of blue smoke when its started,but clears once running,now the 300 heads can crack with age so is it better to fit a recon head once i have saved the cash up
LAND ROVER 300TDI CYLINDER HEAD KIT COMPLETE - LDF500180COM | eBay
than mess about sorting the seals?looking at the engine the timing belts stay in place so looks a easy head replacement, i dont think the bores are worn as theres no back pressure from the engine,so guys your thoughts on this and can i do this my self,i have changed a few head gaskets before

a prebuilt recon head can be fitted in a day by 1 person providing the block is flat.

THEengineer · May 2, 2013

mrchurchill109 said:
Valve seals are a few hours work if that and can be done without removiing the head if you rig an air-pressure adapter from a worn-out spark plug or glow plug.

Pressurize the cylinder with air (40-50PSI) and then the valve spring and keeprs can be stripped with no chance of losing the valve down the rabbit hole.

I have a detailed procedure written for this I'll be throwing out on my Web site in the next few days - ping me and I'll send you a URL.

ajr

brilliant cheers

THEengineer · May 2, 2013

MoorlandBOB said:
a prebuilt recon head can be fitted in a day by 1 person providing the block is flat.

my thoughts too bob,its not using water or over heating so assuming the blocks good

sp00k · May 2, 2013

Another method I've read about (but not tried) is to remove the glow plug and pack the cylinder as much as possible with string through the glow plug hole to prevent the valve dropping into the cavity.

I would be interested to hear how you get on as I'm sure that my current replacement head needs the value seals replaced, but I don't fancy taking the head off to do it.

Oldseadog · May 2, 2013

Still trying to figure out how to compress the springs and remove the collets with the head on?

jamesmartin · May 2, 2013

as long as piston is at tdc valve wont go very far ,

jamesmartin · May 2, 2013

Oldseadog said:
Still trying to figure out how to compres the springs and remove the collets with the head on?

you can buy or get lever tool for said job

Oldseadog · May 2, 2013

jamesmartin said:
you can buy or get lever tool for said job

Thanks James. I still learn something new every day!

mrchurchill109 · May 3, 2013

Oldseadog said:
Still trying to figure out how to compress the springs and remove the collets with the head on?

They make an inexpensive tool for this - it's available in the motor factor's here and I'm sure there.

It's a small device that hooks over the top of the spring and engages the spring coils at nearly the bottom. You put it on and turn the hand knob, and it pulls the spring into compression. Then the spring/puller comes off in one neat package, ready to go back on when the valve seal is in.

Have a look here:

Valve Spring Compressor - Advance Auto Parts

It's really easy to use and makes the job simple. I never cared for the lever ones, myself - too easy to launch the collets if you slip.

ajr

Oldseadog · May 3, 2013

Interesting stuff!

I have to admit that I've always had the head off to do mine!

Thor1950 · May 3, 2013

mrchurchill109 said:
Valve seals are a few hours work if that and can be done without removiing the head if you rig an air-pressure adapter from a worn-out spark plug or glow plug.

Pressurize the cylinder with air (40-50PSI) and then the valve spring and keeprs can be stripped with no chance of losing the valve down the rabbit hole.

I have a detailed procedure written for this I'll be throwing out on my Web site in the next few days - ping me and I'll send you a URL.

ajr

Ace on that works a treat

Yankie engineering

Thor1950 · May 3, 2013

Oldseadog said:
Interesting stuff!

I have to admit that I've always had the head off to do mine!

here is a how to guide

How to replace valve seals on your engine | eHow.com

Oldseadog · May 3, 2013

All you need is a compressor which will hold it at 40-60 psi!

Don't suppose a foot pump will do?

mrchurchill109 · May 3, 2013

Oldseadog said:
All you need is a compressor which will hold it at 40-60 psi!

Don't suppose a foot pump will do?

Wish that were the case. When I didn;t have the compressor handy on petrol engines I used the "rope trick" - a length of soft cord fed into the sparkplug hole and the piston used to shove it up against the valves to hold them in place.

Never tried it on a Diesel - not sure how one would get enough cord into the silly thing as it would be fairly small to get thru a glowplug hole - but it could be done, i expect.

ajr

sp00k · May 3, 2013

According to the guide, you remove the rockers - I can't see why you would need to do this? If you remove the rockers, you would have to replace the head gasket as 3 of the rocker bolts are actually head bolts - or am I being daft?

Thor1950 · May 3, 2013

sp00k said:
According to the guide, you remove the rockers - I can't see why you would need to do this? If you remove the rockers, you would have to replace the head gasket as 3 of the rocker bolts are actually head bolts - or am I being daft?

different set up with american petrol than a lr diesel. Principal is the same, though. Tale out all glow plugs turn motor to tdc on each piston put air to it to hold valves closed, remove retainer and spring replace valve seal, put things back and move to next cylinder

mrchurchill109 · May 6, 2013

i just did my 2.5 and I didn't replace the head gasket. Never have on LR engines, even though they do use the head bolts for mounting the rocker shaft pedestals.

With all the bolts holding the damn head down on an LR 4-pot engine I doubt that head gasket is going to move enough to make it an issue.

You do want to make sure you retorque them properly, though.

ajr

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