Still haven't checked out the type of alternator yet, doing that today.
But last night I had to drive a long distance and was amazed (read "annoyed") to see my interior lights were flickering again.
The door is dry inside so not the micro-switches...except it "is" them... In the tailgate!
I closed it last night and the interior lights didn't go off. So I pushed & shoved & slammed and swore.
Nothing! They still remained lit
So I decided to haul it's ass open and really slam it, but in my blind rage (not really) I pulled, but hadn't actually pressed the button...
Eureka!
The lights went off. So I tried a few more times, they went off each time.
So, I tried a few things to jam the top gate, but nothing so I disconnected the plug on the front interior light and drove home.
So, anyone any idea "what" I need to adjust to stop this phenomenon??
I'm imagining the latch mechanism will be bolted in and slightly adjustable, but the way my luck goes, I'll prolly need to replace the whole damn thing
Oh, and my misfire (except not so much miss as failure to fire by the feel of it) returned, but it's def on LPG. I imagine the injectors as it feels as if not all cylinders are happening. I see a strip down before winter is needed
But last night I had to drive a long distance and was amazed (read "annoyed") to see my interior lights were flickering again.
The door is dry inside so not the micro-switches...except it "is" them... In the tailgate!
I closed it last night and the interior lights didn't go off. So I pushed & shoved & slammed and swore.
Nothing! They still remained lit
So I decided to haul it's ass open and really slam it, but in my blind rage (not really
) I pulled, but hadn't actually pressed the button...Eureka!
The lights went off. So I tried a few more times, they went off each time.
So, I tried a few things to jam the top gate, but nothing so I disconnected the plug on the front interior light and drove home.
So, anyone any idea "what" I need to adjust to stop this phenomenon??
I'm imagining the latch mechanism will be bolted in and slightly adjustable, but the way my luck goes, I'll prolly need to replace the whole damn thing
Oh, and my misfire (except not so much miss as failure to fire by the feel of it) returned, but it's def on LPG. I imagine the injectors as it feels as if not all cylinders are happening. I see a strip down before winter is needed
So, while waiting for a replacement latch, I found a temporary cure to my latching problem.
I gaffa taped on a couple of bits of 4 inch long 6mm plastic pipes just above the latch orifice on the lower tailgate.
This has the effect of pushing the upper tailgate away from the lower, preventing the lights form coming on.
It needs a firmer than normal closing the upper gate, but the lights go out immediately and that is a good thing
I'll see if she fires up in the morning or not, but I'm confident
I gaffa taped on a couple of bits of 4 inch long 6mm plastic pipes just above the latch orifice on the lower tailgate.
This has the effect of pushing the upper tailgate away from the lower, preventing the lights form coming on.
It needs a firmer than normal closing the upper gate, but the lights go out immediately and that is a good thing
I'll see if she fires up in the morning or not, but I'm confident
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The early ones were 13.7/8 volts. It will never fully charge a modern Lead/Calcium battery, but as long as you don't do a lot of short runs, as you seem to have found it will be OK. Easy enough to swap the regulator/brush assembly to up it to 14.5 or 14.7 volts.
