Me again,

Is there only 1 type of tensioner for the 300TDI? If I need to get one I need to make sure I get the right one

o :)
 
I'd be fairly surprised if it has seized, it may feel like it has but that is a hefty spring in there, I'd be guessing that you would need about 50lb force on a normal sized spanner to get it to move, hence breaker bar suggestion
 
No criticism intended (well maybe just a little) you've been a member for 2 years and haven't got a breakers bar and length of scaffolding. HOW?:confused:
 
Lol livers!!!

Guess i haven't got too mechanically involved up to now, main just cosmetic

o
 
Leverage is the key, you need something you can get good leverage on. I use a pry bar on the nut holding the pulley on using the nut holding the tensioner to the engine as the pivot point, remember to loosen the nut holding the tensioner to the engine a bit to allow it some movement of the spring, not a lot mind just not locked down tight.
 
Leverage is the key, you need something you can get good leverage on. I use a pry bar on the nut holding the pulley on using the nut holding the tensioner to the engine as the pivot point, remember to loosen the nut holding the tensioner to the engine a bit to allow it some movement of the spring, not a lot mind just not locked down tight.


Surely the the nut holding the tensioner to the engine should allow the tensioner to move otherwise it is not doing its job. if when it is tight it does not allow the tensioner to rotate against the spring pressure then the unit is fubarred. Or am i misunderstanding what you wrote?

mine rotates when the tensioner is at the correct torque.


Cheers
 
Surely the the nut holding the tensioner to the engine should allow the tensioner to move otherwise it is not doing its job. if when it is tight it does not allow the tensioner to rotate against the spring pressure then the unit is fubarred. Or am i misunderstanding what you wrote?

mine rotates when the tensioner is at the correct torque.


Cheers

you are correct
 
I found it a little easier to move when it wasn't locked tight, maybe my tensioner is fubar?? It would still spring return when tight but was a little easier to move when cracked off by maybe 30 degrees.
 
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Three options that all work, and you're right you don't need to undo the main bolt, whaddayaknow :eek:
 
Cheers guys - bought this yesterday, would have tried to do the belt today but have had the hangover from hell....

Can't wait to get on it tomorrow!

o

 
Hi all,

Had a good day with the 90 today.

Turns out the tensioner wasn't duff, I just needed to get more leverage. So breaker bar did a good job (and only cost a tenner)



With a bit of fiddling the new belt is on! Tension feels good but no charging light on the dash (Don't think it was on before is fairness)



This has felt like a team effort and I literally could not have got it done without the help from you lot - Thank you very much :D

So I started it up and it all ran fine (After getting more fuel in, oops)

I'm in the final prep for the MOT and have just discovered that the flasher unit is duff - doh! On to the next job t is then..

Thanks again for the help guys,

o
 
Good job and well done,
why do you think the charging light is not working, it should go out once engine is running, is it not lighting up when ingition is turned on ?

on a slightly different note, you might wannt to consider changing the 2 plastic bleed caps on the thermostat and radiator, had one break on mine and changing for a brass fitting is considered a good option for safety.

Hope the flasher unit is not too big an issue.

cheers
 
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Cheers Neilly,

Yea there is no ignition light at all but it could be because of the wires being messed with as the binnacle has been in and out a couple of times.

Yea already replaced one of the caps, but good shout on upgrading - I'll keep an eye out for some good ones.

Am going out to Chorlton to find a flasher unit now, fingers crossed the rain holds off.

Cheers,

o :)
 

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