D

dell boy

New Member
HI ALL
please can anyone help after sitting in traffic my heater matrix makes very bad gurgling noises i have tryed all different way of getting it out i.e.

1. putting the car up a bank so header tank is the highest point
[ didn't work ]

2. filling the heater matrix up then connecting the pipes
[ didn't work ]

3. flushing the system then refilling very slowly
[ didnt work ]

can someone please HELP ME!!!!!
:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:
 
Firstly, you'll have to tell us which Disco you have, they've done 4 series from 1989 to today, that's 21 years or so.

Bleeding the cooling system on a 300TDi is one of the easiest I've ever known. You turn the heater controls on, fill the expansion tank, remove the 2x hex plugs at the radiator and thermostat housing and top it up at the lower, then upper plug, then refit once full.
 
When I had that problem I was removing the air in the system but it was returning a day or two later indicated by the heater matrix noise.

Ooops :) head gasket gone but that was long ago in my RR days... no probs with the disco.
 
Last edited:
OK I had the same problem. I live in north Ontario, and I bought a 1995 300TDI ( not available in Canada) The temp. gauge never goes above 1/4. The heater was dreadful. I was very disapointed. My solution was to install an inline 12volt circulating pump in the heater hose. the difference is day and night.The pump I got was from a GMC mini van, but I am told they are in some other cars, I installed it in the hose right beside the thermostat housing, and I wired it into the stop like harness which was handy. The nice thing about this system is you do not have to run the pump all the time.
 
irishrover110 said:
OK I had the same problem. I live in north Ontario, and I bought a 1995 300TDI ( not available in Canada) The temp. gauge never goes above 1/4. The heater was dreadful. I was very disapointed. My solution was to install an inline 12volt circulating pump in the heater hose. the difference is day and night.The pump I got was from a GMC mini van, but I am told they are in some other cars, I installed it in the hose right beside the thermostat housing, and I wired it into the stop like harness which was handy. The nice thing about this system is you do not have to run the pump all the time.
Click to expand...


My Disco's heater is fine, my temp gauge never goes up above 1/4 or so either but the heat output from the heater is still good. Its absolutely standard too. I guess the Canadian winters are more of a challenge though.

How do you cope with the other stuff (diesel waxing, engine oil going solid, battery not working, etc?)
 
thanks i have tryed every thing to sort this problem my disco is a 1995 300tdi i have had it all pressure tested so there is not a headgasket problem its just bloody getting on my nerves now i had a shogun befor this and never had a problem!!!! kinda makes me want it back lol
 
dell boy said:
thanks i have tryed every thing to sort this problem my disco is a 1995 300tdi i have had it all pressure tested so there is not a headgasket problem its just bloody getting on my nerves now
Click to expand...
The matrix may need cleaning out. Connect the matrix with a hose and flush through in the reverse direction of flow to clear any sludge out. You will be amazed how much sludge builds up. Refill and then follow the bleeding process. This may help.
 
terryds said:
The matrix may need cleaning out. Connect the matrix with a hose and flush through in the reverse direction of flow to clear any sludge out. You will be amazed how much sludge builds up. Refill and then follow the bleeding process. This may help.
Click to expand...


already done that mate thanks for the advise !!!! still cant get it out :mad:
 
paul_c said:
Firstly, you'll have to tell us which Disco you have, they've done 4 series from 1989 to today, that's 21 years or so.

Bleeding the cooling system on a 300TDi is one of the easiest I've ever known. You turn the heater controls on, fill the expansion tank, remove the 2x hex plugs at the radiator and thermostat housing and top it up at the lower, then upper plug, then refit once full.
Click to expand...

Dont forget to replace those ****ty plastic bungs with some decent brass ones with bleed nipples.
 
and don't forget you will always have some air in the system because the header tank isn't the highest part of the system.
fill the expansion tank to the mark.
fill the rad till it's full.
fill the thermostat housing till full.
that's it a doddle but under natural pressure from the air around it will always have an air gap at the top as long as your getting warm heaters and the needle doesn't rocket to the H it's perfectly normal.
 
Thats why yu change those plastic plugs for propper bleed valves, so you can bleed it hot and under pressure to get all the air out. - some are in the for sale section.
 
does the header tank cap hiss when you remove it?

rave procedure for bleeding.

remove rad bung
remove stat bung
remove exp cap
fill exp tank till water flows from rad. this gives correct tank level.
replace rad bung, replace exp cap.
continue to fill thru stat housing. (i use a funnel and fill that. squezze pipework till bubbles stop appearing)
remove funnel, replace bung.
coolant now ok.

make sure your rad - stat housing - exp tank brather puipes are clear. it makes this job a lot easier.

if your taknk is pressurising when you remove the cap, you have a head / gasket problem. often accompanied with a persistent gurgling noise.
 
Well ive not done a Disco yet but will be when i fit my new matrix and thats a V8.

But the way I always do any motor is as follows.
Fill the system as much as you can then unbolt the header tank and mount it higher than the rad run the car up to temp with the rad cap off leave it running a while longer then switch off top up if needed refit the header tank and all should be well.

Not saying this will work on a Disco but it should and I have always done this and have never had a problem. I have been working on my own cars and Bikes for over 25 years.

worth a try
 
cant beat the o&m manual.
one would think its been written with the design in mind.
try which ever you want really.
 
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