I doubt the handbrake drum was causing it, but it's easy enough to leave the adjuster slack and go for a test run. If it continues then you look elsewhere. Since I haven't heard the humming, it's not a diff-like sound is it? do you get a clunking from low speed changes of direction too? eg when parking? Maybe leave the rear prop off for a test drive and see what happens to the sound (obv you can't leave both props off at the same time lol)

I find acetone on the brake pads helps get the leaked oil off efficiently btw
 
Ratae said:
Forgot to mention, item 11 (FRC2464) in the pic is a felt washer. Stops oil passing down the splines. I'm led to believe some use silicone sealant instead but I use the felt washer.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Did you lock her up with a tool or and I safe to lock centre diff and undo/ re torque? I can make a tool if I need to
 
romanrob said:
I doubt the handbrake drum was causing it, but it's easy enough to leave the adjuster slack and go for a test run. If it continues then you look elsewhere. Since I haven't heard the humming, it's not a diff-like sound is it? do you get a clunking from low speed changes of direction too? eg when parking? Maybe leave the rear prop off for a test drive and see what happens to the sound (obv you can't leave both props off at the same time lol)

I find acetone on the brake pads helps get the leaked oil off efficiently btw
Click to expand...

Thanks rob, I don’t know to be honest. It doesn’t give any noise low speed or turning (guess you may be wondering cv also). It’s no louder than my music (which I have loud in defender lol) and I’d describe is as I byplane in the distance! No clunking and not noticeable until 40. If I take up to 60 and let off I get that drone/hum down to 40. It’s a bit similar to a wheel bearing noise.
Am I still ok to test at speed with fwd only and I assume as normally 4wd I can use normal gears to test?
 
I know my propshaft joints are going when I get a noise or slight sense of vibration at about 50. The one I replaced at Christmas was giving me a lot of noise on the overrun too. A tiny bit of movement at one of the universal joints can give a lot of vibration. If you put it in difflock it's quite happy driving on one proshaft for a test run, but I wouldn't recommend it for a long journey.
 
Brown said:
I know my propshaft joints are going when I get a noise or slight sense of vibration at about 50. The one I replaced at Christmas was giving me a lot of noise on the overrun too. A tiny bit of movement at one of the universal joints can give a lot of vibration. If you put it in difflock it's quite happy driving on one proshaft for a test run, but I wouldn't recommend it for a long journey.
Click to expand...

Thanks brown. It’s definitely uj/prop symptoms isn’t it! I have old props off and I couldn’t find any play but who knows when ujs were last changed so my first call was to treat to new props and build up a spare set. That way it was only an hours work and it wouldn’t be off the road! Luckily, working from home 90% of time since lockdown means I can leave it for a few days whilst parts arrive.
 
If I need to hold the flange still while doing up the nuts that hold them on I just put a bar through the bolts. They're only 3/8" UNF but I've never bent one doing so. Some people make tools, but I've never needed to. A C shaped bit of metal plate with holes in the right places for the bolts, with a handle welded on usually suffices.
 
So if this noise occurs over 40mph, are you always in 5th gear at that point? Have you tested if the noise is there in both 4th & 5th? if it goes away/reduces in 4th it may be the rear support bearings in the R380.

But as per the other thread my money is on t-box bearings - especially if there's been a prolonged leak that could've caused oil starvation.
 
Does it in 4th too mate. Could be! When I drained a decent amount came out - must've been 2 litres. I'd have no idea how to be sure its transfer box though without eliminating all else it could be first. The plan was always to fit a 1.2 but I didn't want to do that until I did the clutch and the cost for clutch replacement is over a grand without the cost of transfer box. :(
 
resto_d1 said:
Thanks. Did you lock her up with a tool or and I safe to lock centre diff and undo/ re torque? I can make a tool if I need to
Click to expand...
I've done all the transfer box & axle input/output seals on mine over the years & the axle flange nuts were particularly tight so I made up a tool to deal with it.
It's a 3' length of angle iron with a half moon shape & two holes drilled to accept two of the flange bolts.
The half moon is to give clear access to the main flange nut. The other end sits on the floor to stop turning & I've never had a problem getting a nut undone - or torqued up - on the transfer box or axle diffs.
Could be shorter but it means it still goes against the ground if the car is jacked up to give better access for gearbox (ZF auto in mine) & transfer box removal.
 
I’m sure I have a 1.2 transfer box in the shed. But WILL need a rebuild due to finding a bearing race floating in the oil.
shout if you want it. (No rush it’s been there a year)
 
Ratae said:
I've done all the transfer box & axle input/output seals on mine over the years & the axle flange nuts were particularly tight so I made up a tool to deal with it.
It's a 3' length of angle iron with a half moon shape & two holes drilled to accept two of the flange bolts.
The half moon is to give clear access to the main flange nut. The other end sits on the floor to stop turning & I've never had a problem getting a nut undone - or torqued up.
Could be shorter but it means it still goes against the ground if the car is jacked up to give better access for gearbox (ZF auto in mine) & transfer box removal.
Click to expand...

Thanks - that's what I had in mind!!
 
Hicap phill said:
I’m sure I have a 1.2 transfer box in the shed. But WILL need a rebuild due to finding a bearing race floating in the oil.
shout if you want it. (No rush it’s been there a year)
Click to expand...

Cheers Phil. I may order an Ashcroft one if the noise is still that but I cant be sure it is transfer box as I need to be doing higher speed in high gear to cause the symptoms and don't want to be doing that in difflock?

I also don't want to swap the transfer box without doing the clutch and rear crank seal.

Any chance I could borrow you for a Sunday if I get a crane and get a hand doing the lot up at the yard?! I'd give you beer tokens as the quote I've had on the clutch is 1200 inclusive of clutch and DMF and its surely going to end up more like 2k with a transfer box. I think I could do the clutch myself but never done one on a LR!

I could then remove the box totally, fit new transfer box to mean gearbox, and slap the lot in with a new clutch?

I had a little pot I was keeping aside incase I need an AMC head but if this issue isn't easily solved it seems the above may be likely!!
 
resto_d1 said:
Cheers Phil. I may order an Ashcroft one if the noise is still that but I cant be sure it is transfer box as I need to be doing higher speed in high gear to cause the symptoms and don't want to be doing that in difflock
Click to expand...

Just put in low, diff isn’t locked,

Gearbox would turn slower but transfer box would get up to “problem” speed at a lower road speed.

Don’t know what it would rule out if still there but worth an experiment. Need a thunk about that:oops:


J

That’s what happens when you go for a wee, second again:D
 
marjon said:
Just put in low, diff isn’t locked,

Gearbox would turn slower but transfer box would get up to “problem” speed at a lower road speed.

Don’t know what it would rule out if still there but worth an experiment. Need a thunk about that:oops:


J

That’s what happens when you go for a wee, second again:D
Click to expand...

yeah sorry was getting muddled between removing one prop :rolleyes:

I’ve had bm, Audi, Subaru, trucks and lots of jap stuff and thibk this is the most a cars ever cost me in a few months :(

On a brighter note (pun intended), my new headlights came 10 mins ago and they threw in a work light as a gift!! They won’t be to everyone’s taste but I don’t care and need to be able to see in deepest darkest wales!
Back on topic. My plan....

flange kit is already ordered so:

  1. drain t box and fit flange kit
  2. Fit rear prop and test drive (without handbrake fitted)
  3. Pray it’s cured it
  4. If it hasn’t, get second opinion on noise??
  5. If tbox, painfully open wallet and get clutch Kit, rear crank seal, And 1.2 t box from ashcroft
  6. Pray that the head holds out as that’s what my money was aside for!
 
resto_d1 said:
flange kit is already ordered so:

  1. drain t box and fit flange kit
  2. Fit rear prop and test drive (without handbrake fitted)
  3. Pray it’s cured it
  4. If it hasn’t, get second opinion on noise??
  5. If tbox, painfully open wallet and get clutch Kit, rear crank seal, And 1.2 t box from ashcroft
  6. Pray that the head holds out as that’s what my money was aside for!
Click to expand...

Surely in between 2 & 3 should be if problem still there remove rear prop and fit front prop, test.

But at least you have a plan, till the next one:eek::).

J
 
marjon said:
Surely in between 2 & 3 should be if problem still there remove rear prop and fit front prop, test.

But at least you have a plan, till the next one:eek::).

J
Click to expand...

ahh yes your right. Also, not sure if it’s worth me ordering an output bearing but I don’t have a slide hammer to remove!!!
 
resto_d1 said:
ahh yes your right. Also, not sure if it’s worth me ordering an output bearing but I don’t have a slide hammer to remove!!!
Click to expand...

Out put for TB? Why?
If 1 is gone how many others could be suspect? so go back to the whole refurb.

I would stick with trying to narrow it down at the moment, you have some suspects. Let’s hope 1 of them is your issue. Let’s face it the LT230 is supposedly bulletproof. (It is a tough little thing:))
Just as an out of box, if you know your clutch needs replacement is the spigot bearing ok? Could that be it?
I have no idea but just throwing ideas in before expensive rebuilds.:D

J
 
Tool worked a treat. Made it long and locked it into the kerb. I bought a lidl parkside impact wrench a while back. It’s undone decades old radius arm bolts and just whipped this off no fuss. Bearing looks nice and lubed. All seals and flange off awaiting courier
98693758-63EA-406F-B233-DD44EA6D07CB.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Seaswood
Transfer case rear seal transmission brake
Replies
5
Views
799
Seaswood
Seaswood
B
Output shaft splines.
Replies
7
Views
452
Brylton
B
ar1g3
P38A Tips for torquing prop shaft bolts?
Replies
16
Views
2K
romanrob
R
dave evans
Transfer box
Replies
3
Views
508
dag019
dag019
Gunter Butfuster
LT230 front output flanges - different sizes
Replies
2
Views
303
Gunter Butfuster
Gunter Butfuster