I think the fronts have the
Pipes fitted with a banjo the backs however are threaded into the calipers :( don't think you would need the the carrier just slider pins and calipers and spring clip set
 
defender300td1 said:
I think the fronts have the
Pipes fitted with a banjo the backs however are threaded into the calipers :( don't think you would need the the carrier just slider pins and calipers and spring clip set
Click to expand...

Best get to the back of the garage then and dust off pipe flaring kit!

On a positive note VC seems ok. Can turn front wheel although it is stiff.
 
Big Merv said:
Best get to the back of the garage then and dust off pipe flaring kit!

On a positive note VC seems ok. Can turn front wheel although it is stiff.
Click to expand...

No its a flexi pipe maybe new pipe tho, a little hint loosen flexi hose nut first before removing calipers then its easyer to just unwind calipers off hose :)
 
Last edited:
I still think it worth checking the rear brake pipes are connected correctly to the brake booster. Mine is 4 wheel TC and marked as follows:

top 22 ........ RHR
bottom 21 .......LHR

I think they are all numbered the same, either 2 or 4 wheel TC.
Your symptoms indicate it is applying the brake to the wrong wheel.
 
dave4x4 said:
I still think it worth checking the rear brake pipes are connected correctly to the brake booster. Mine is 4 wheel TC and marked as follows:

top 22 ........ RHR
bottom 21 .......LHR

I think they are all numbered the same, either 2 or 4 wheel TC.
Your symptoms indicate it is applying the brake to the wrong wheel.
Click to expand...
Definitely worth checking but I just can't belive someone can be so stupid one at a time can't go wrong! However there was chap the other day who had chassis brake pipes replace and he swore his had been swapped over and the car was snaking remember ? What was the result not that I can see it making a car snake on a good road surface .
 
Stranger things have happened. Maybe if someone takes both pipes off at the same time without making a note or taking a pic.

I remember the other case. It wasn't the pipes in the end.
 
st replaced my brake pipes. the connectors for the rear sit under the offside wheel arc cover. It is very east to mix the pipes up as its easy for them to cross as they go up and through the chassis and behind the air cylinder out of sight.
Replaced all the flex pipes as they just fell apart when trying to part from the STEEL pipes landrover use.
If you look at the connectors under the wheel arch one is longer than the other. The shorter one goes to the rear offside and the longer one goes to the nearside. Hopefully someone might confirm this for me as it was 6 months ago. Good luck in the ice age conditions over the next few days.
 
dave4x4 said:
Stranger things have happened. Maybe if someone takes both pipes off at the same time without making a note or taking a pic.

I remember the other case. It wasn't the pipes in the end.
Click to expand...

Yes like I'm just going to change all these plugs and leads ..,,,,



O errrr where did that one go :confused: don't you just love em ;)
 
OK so a deal more checking required then of pipes and gubbings.

This car does have full history with it but got it at reasonable money as the EAS pump is running every couple of seconds. Headlamp wipers just blow the 10amp fuse constantly. Heated windows front and rear not working, occasional HEVAC test book coming on every now and then. Fuse box has that smell, the lovely aroma of shorting burning electrics.

I think a lot of the problems might be electrical gremlins. Since it has been cold (below 0 degrees) the EAS pump has stopped cutting in as much, so I am thinking air leak/hole frozen working like a bath plug. HEVAC test book not coming on, so thinking moisture frozen at earthing point now giving good earth?

I already miss my oh so simple 300tdi Disco.
 
Big Merv said:
OK so a deal more checking required then of pipes and gubbings.

This car does have full history with it but got it at reasonable money as the EAS pump is running every couple of seconds. Headlamp wipers just blow the 10amp fuse constantly. Heated windows front and rear not working, occasional HEVAC test book coming on every now and then. Fuse box has that smell, the lovely aroma of shorting burning electrics.

I think a lot of the problems might be electrical gremlins. Since it has been cold (below 0 degrees) the EAS pump has stopped cutting in as much, so I am thinking air leak/hole frozen working like a bath plug. HEVAC test book not coming on, so thinking moisture frozen at earthing point now giving good earth?

I already miss my oh so simple 300tdi Disco.
Click to expand...
As you know headlight wipers only come on with headlights on and wash cycle check they are not stiff will overload motors and blow fuse un plug one at a time to zero in on the one with the problem if one only if not stiff motor shorting out or a short I'm the wiring
+ diagnostics for other probs I'm afraid
 
If the fuse box smells of burning, fix that before you bother looking at anything else. It's the source of many strange electrical events.
 
Willos said:
I thought that list was all normal for a p38 owner :eek:
Click to expand...

Yeah does seem to be! I have seen and read the numerous threads on the web about being a dab hand with a soldering iron and fixing the fusebox, so armed with all this information I have ordered a new one:eek:

The real problem with this car is that when it behaves nicely it is oh so nice which just makes you like it despite its gremlins. There needs to be a bank account nice p38 formula developed so you can calculate when to quit, then you would know when and where to draw the line. Or would you.? :confused:
 
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