If you can simply hook it over, then in theory it could come off at an angle during recovery (same issue as with a rope over the ball, basically). If it can't hook over, then you'd need to remove/tighten the shackle's pin, which is time consuming compared to simply lifting/lowering a pin (and clipping it in).
If you can simply hook it over, then in theory it could come off at an angle during recovery (same issue as with a rope over the ball, basically). If it can't hook over, then you'd need to remove/tighten the shackle's pin, which is time consuming compared to simply lifting/lowering a pin (and clipping it in).
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
It's quicker to do up/undo a shackle than it is to do up/undo my dixon bate tow pin.
I have a Bradley pin hitch on the front and unsure of the make of the rear one, mine are quick and easy to use. Maybe there's some kind of issue with the design of the Dixon Bate, I'd not know, because I don't have one of them.
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
No design issue. It might have summit to do with ice and mud preventing it undoing quickly and easily.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
Agree, mine is sticky when coated with road ****e too.I always use the pin too only use ball for trailersNo design issue. It might have summit to do with ice and mud preventing it undoing quickly and easily.
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
Yes but removing it wouldn't help because it would leave the release machanism free to get gunked up.
That's the difference then - mine is a simple lump of metal with 2 vertical holes - much like a tractor drawbar hitch. So there's nothing to get gunked up with mud/dirt, except for the 1" holes, which are easily cleared when its needed. I keep the pins in a bag with the other recovery stuff, in the boot. Firstly so its safe from theft and secondly to keep them clean and also to prevent damage if the pin should get 'caught up' on terrain, etc.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
I always think there are two design flaws with DB towball. first is that the plate with the towbar on it wld be much better with two pins thru it,it would be more stable esp. when worn.The other is that cos the rear x member on a lr is so high up youre always gonna have stays that can trap a stump, rock or w.h.y.when you are off road.Like you say the sticing pin issue can be dealt with by common sense methods.Having said that ive never had a problem with mine its just not as refined as it might be
johnny curt 1
Well-Known Member
the one i used to have had a problem with the rubber protective cover wich due to its shape kept splitting and letting **** in so i used to use a tennis ball with a hole cut in and a generous blob of grease inside the ball to cover the towing ball wich if i hit anything in a carpark it would turn the tennis ball and dribble a little grease into where the pin goes sort of self lubricating
it also used to clean the towball up something wicked
and yer right ive seen a towrope come off the ball and put thwe shackle straight through the back window of a rangie fekkin frightning thats why i used to use a wagon hiab strop through the bateson pin so if it ever came off theres no steel hook to kill anyone in the way
it also used to clean the towball up something wicked
and yer right ive seen a towrope come off the ball and put thwe shackle straight through the back window of a rangie fekkin frightning thats why i used to use a wagon hiab strop through the bateson pin so if it ever came off theres no steel hook to kill anyone in the way
Get a d shackle no probs then,
It's quicker to do up/undo a shackle than it is to do up/undo my dixon bate tow pin.
True dat
our old fourtrak has a large hook bolted to the front chassis rail under the front bumper, occasionally a slack chain will fall off before its under tension, we use it with a chain hooked both ends for dragging bits of tree about, or with a long rope to help the tree go the right way when we attack the bottom with the chainsaw..
