stutab

stutab

Well-Known Member
Hi all, advice please..

I am renovating a 1984 Range Rover Vogue 3.5 carb. I am doing a gear box swap to a manual but was wondering if it would be worth rebuilding the engine as the box is coming out.

She is on 123k and when I was doing some off roading there was no over heating, it starts first time every time and runs well for an engine that is in need of a service.

Any advice welcome.
 
sounds like you're asking for trouble. You seem very sure that the gearbox swap will be easy and wont show any other problems. Sure it's no series but then, it's a land rover...
 
Just give it a good service with good oil and filterd and use some engine flush see how that gets u ifit burns or uses oil or water then consider it
 
stutab said:
Hi all, advice please..

I am renovating a 1984 Range Rover Vogue 3.5 carb. I am doing a gear box swap to a manual but was wondering if it would be worth rebuilding the engine as the box is coming out.

She is on 123k and when I was doing some off roading there was no over heating, it starts first time every time and runs well for an engine that is in need of a service.

Any advice welcome.
Click to expand...

ever heared the expression let sleeping dogs lie

if it were me id fit new distributor cap leads plugs coil air and oil filter give it a fekkin good flush for the oil and water systems and put the bugger back in

if its running ok just a bleddy good going through will do it the world of good ;);)
 
philvy said:
sounds like you're asking for trouble. You seem very sure that the gearbox swap will be easy and wont show any other problems. Sure it's no series but then, it's a land rover...
Click to expand...

I am anticipating problems all the way. I have found the right gear box for the rangy (LT77). Got everything that I think I need, flywheel , new clutch ass etc. Going to take my time and do it right first time.
 
I would suggest doing a compression test, that will give you some idea of what condition the engine is in. I just tested mine and was pleasantly surprised to find compression up to spec on all 8 with no large variations between cylinders.

If it is low compression you should be looking for about 150psi but nothing lower than 135psi. If compression rises when tested wet then it might indicate sticking valves, worn valve guides or worn piston rings in which case it might be worth considering a strip down and rebuild including new cam shaft and followers. If the reading is low on two adjacent cylinders then chances are head gasket needs changing. If one side has a head gasket problem do them both and while you're in there check the condition of cam shaft and followers. HTH.
 
90truckcab said:
fergerrit it stu, restore yer sel a nice tractor instead , far more productive ! :D
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Ha Ha. You not started that yet? Got a 72 MF135 sat in a shed at work. Needs a battery and some diesel and she a runner. You started the Austin yet?
 
stutab said:
Ha Ha. You not started that yet? Got a 72 MF135 sat in a shed at work. Needs a battery and some diesel and she a runner. You started the Austin yet?
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Yeah, fergy is still lookin the same, rollers not moved , austin 7 is lovely , but still not touched it with a spanner, been out a few times in the old yellow series , just can't find time to do anythin no more , will start a resto thread when I start one of them I'm sure , will post a few pics of that austin, one owner from new in 1929 with 18k on clock ,
 
Yes mate, got one house that we are re-building one part and demolishing another to be re-built which has no roofing on it, got a grade 2 that's just had a full rene, doors and windows going in, insulating all old walls, first fix on Thursday. Digger in with a pecker re laying a floor for a unit to turn into a cooking and drying room for a stone craft company, laser level people coming on Thursday. sub-soiling, discing and getting ready for seed drilling, got an 18ton digger coming on Monday to put a new coach driveway and landscaping the garden of the grade 2 house, scaffolding up to re-build a chimney. Got 5 machines to go through the workshop and be re-built.:Cry:

Oh and doing up my house and the Rangy.

So ye, keeping busy. You?
 
I agree with the advice you've received on the ''if it aint broke don't fix it theme'' My previous 3.5efi (9.35:1) had done 155k when I sold it & a comp. test showed an average of 160psi with no large variation between cylinders.
 
norseman said:
I agree with the advice you've received on the ''if it aint broke don't fix it theme'' My previous 3.5efi (9.35:1) had done 155k when I sold it & a comp. test showed an average of 160psi with no large variation between cylinders.
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That seams to be the common advice thanks, Got a compression tester just waiting for the time to test it.
 
People will say that I always go over the top but if you are replacing the gearbox and wondering whether to take the engine out as well I'd be inclined to do a leak down test as well as compression testing, which is generally seen as diagnosing a lot more faults than just a compression test.

You might for instance, if compression is fine and showing no signs of wear, but there is a leak down of over 30%, want to take the heads off and rework the valve train.

I would have thought worth checking as much as possible in the first instance even if you later decide to let sleeping dogs lie.

Jon
 
jonnyt said:
People will say that I always go over the top but if you are replacing the gearbox and wondering whether to take the engine out as well I'd be inclined to do a leak down test as well as compression testing, which is generally seen as diagnosing a lot more faults than just a compression test.

You might for instance, if compression is fine and showing no signs of wear, but there is a leak down of over 30%, want to take the heads off and rework the valve train.

I would have thought worth checking as much as possible in the first instance even if you later decide to let sleeping dogs lie.

Jon
Click to expand...

I apologise for being a novices but what is a leak down test?
 
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