Hippo
Lord Hippo
Looks like yer fallen int love with it already. Happy motoring.
Karlos28
Well-Known Member
Got both front door speakers working after a bit of a clean of the sockets and pi s on the connectors. Much better.
Driver's window is being held in place by a wedge of wood. New regulator needed. Tailgate door won't open, micro switch is clicking (even though the handle has snapped off as usual!) Nothing else happens. Rear window won't move in any way possible. Regulator looks fine, connections look fine. Rear wiper arm works and all central locking. If I try and out the window down with the interior switch, I can hear the relay clicking, so I'm guessing it's the motor. Are they replaceable individually or is it the full regulator job?
Driver's window is being held in place by a wedge of wood. New regulator needed. Tailgate door won't open, micro switch is clicking (even though the handle has snapped off as usual!) Nothing else happens. Rear window won't move in any way possible. Regulator looks fine, connections look fine. Rear wiper arm works and all central locking. If I try and out the window down with the interior switch, I can hear the relay clicking, so I'm guessing it's the motor. Are they replaceable individually or is it the full regulator job?
Karlos28
Well-Known Member
Found the source of the exhaust/prop interference... Front upper driver's side engine mount was basically not attached... The fitting on the engine block has one partially stripped hole, and the other looks ok. Both holes must have been damaged as the bolts wouldn't run down. New bolts, and managed to find one being broken to nab the engine mount off! All sorted now.
Just a 5 window regulators to change now!
Just a 5 window regulators to change now!
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
Need to do the one wheel up test Karlos - some resistance on turning and particularly in reverse is to be expected. Mine does this, and the OWUT time is 45 seconds - and therefore acceptably within the published forum limits
Karlos28
Well-Known Member
Yeah, was thinking about it earlier.. I stall the thing that much in a straight line enough as I am so used to a diesel auto, and diesel manuals at work!
Will get the OWUT done and record timings. It'd be nice if I didn't need to spend £300 on a VCU.
Think I'm going to have a go at albrios tailgate handle repair, just need to source a lense for the number plate light. Also need a motor for the rear glass, it worked when I test drove it, but now it doesn't so can't get the back door open. Got the door card off, plug looks ok, regulator looks fine.. relay is clicking but no movement on the motor.
Will get the OWUT done and record timings. It'd be nice if I didn't need to spend £300 on a VCU.
Think I'm going to have a go at albrios tailgate handle repair, just need to source a lense for the number plate light. Also need a motor for the rear glass, it worked when I test drove it, but now it doesn't so can't get the back door open. Got the door card off, plug looks ok, regulator looks fine.. relay is clicking but no movement on the motor.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Might not be the actual motor, there is a hall effect sensor in the gearbox part of the motor that can fail and stop the motor operating. I have a thread on how to test and change this for a few pounds. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tailgate-window-motor-components.335936/#post-4358770
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
If you need a new VCU you can refurb it yourself. I have a thread showing how I did mine, others have done similar. 2 years on still good and just done another one !
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/how-to-recondition-a-vcu-yourself.307445/page-6#post-3937567
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/how-to-recondition-a-vcu-yourself.307445/page-6#post-3937567
Karlos28
Well-Known Member
Awesome cheers Andy, will check them out!
It also has a hot idle issue.. it hunts from about 500rpm to about 1250rpm, almost stalling and some times it does. Oil light even flashes very faintly when Revs drop low. Had a quick Google and it seems to be some sort of IPCV (or some arrangement of other letters) which it attached to the manifold with 4 bolts and can get clogged with oily crap?
It also has a hot idle issue.. it hunts from about 500rpm to about 1250rpm, almost stalling and some times it does. Oil light even flashes very faintly when Revs drop low. Had a quick Google and it seems to be some sort of IPCV (or some arrangement of other letters) which it attached to the manifold with 4 bolts and can get clogged with oily crap?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Idle Air Control Valve (IACV)
.They go sticky, so need to be cleaned with something like WD40.
Karlos28
Well-Known Member
One letter! Haha
It occurred to me earlier that whilst poking around I found a hose off the manifold.. (idle wasn't an issue on the way home from picking it up) I bet this is why!
New speakers are needed for the front. Still really tinny, after some searching, found that the cone is solid and doesn't move. Magnet must have detached.. to halfrauds!
It occurred to me earlier that whilst poking around I found a hose off the manifold.. (idle wasn't an issue on the way home from picking it up) I bet this is why!
New speakers are needed for the front. Still really tinny, after some searching, found that the cone is solid and doesn't move. Magnet must have detached.. to halfrauds!
Karlos28
Well-Known Member
Well I had the iacv off, cleaned, and functioned with ignition on/off and all seems to work well but I still get the almost cutting out when I come off power (clutch in). Interestingly the cam cover breather was off the manifold when I got it.. if I disconnect this again it all works well?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
This can happen with an adaptive capable ECU. The ECU will learn to run, sometimes quite well, with an incorrect running condition, like a split pipe. The ECU adapts it's values to suit the incorrect condition, which it's designed to do. However if the incorrect condition is caused by a fault, which is subsequently fix, the ECU will need to re-learn the correct running environment. Some good code readers can reset the "adaptive values" but most can't. So all you can do is allow the ECU time to relearn the correct values.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Over a period of a couple of hundred miles, the ECU will relearn the engine, and should start idling correct.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The K series isn't known for bad oil pressure, quite the opposite in fact. Normally the oil pressure light will go out while cranking it over, and shouldn't come on while it's running.
