700Quid
Active Member
Based in norfolk. As I say it'll be a while before I start but its something im thinking about for the future as id like to fuel my car for 20ppl.
Based in norfolk. As I say it'll be a while before I start but its something im thinking about for the future as id like to fuel my car for 20ppl.
stutab
Well-Known Member
Hmm bit far. I did some bio diesel once. Clogged up the fuel system at 5°c saved money though. How big is the new garage of yours to house a bio plant and a 2 post ramp + everything else?
700Quid
Active Member
Yeah I think if I do bio I will either look at getting the additive for the winter, or mixing with a little diesel. Its a long way off and may not happen but I like the idea of trying it.
My idea for the garage at the moment is 4 bays, with one being the lift bay. Because of the height needed for the lift I am looking at the idea of a mezzanine level above the other parking bays. I could then build a partition wall so my wifes obsession with keeping her car free from bits of metal off the grinder, dust, paint etc is not a problem.... Honestly you'd think I'd damaged the paint work or something!!!
.... So yeah its going to be a fair size but this is our last move and we are setting up with what we want while we have the capital. It already has a double garage but that is going to be my workshop... I'm actually more of a wood and leather man than a metal worker so the landy project is a first for me. I need a clean, oil free environment to make sure my other projects don't get ruined. I have to say though its been very enjoyable and I will look at doing more in the future... I would like something pre 1960 next I think... We shall see many other things to do first.
stutab
Well-Known Member
Weekend off chainsawing for Killajoules. I sent him to the local agents dealer where we hired this
Tree chipping with a GreenMech 150: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voqIzB-pI_A
Tree chipping with a GreenMech 150: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voqIzB-pI_A
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
Stu,
Have you already got a HD track rods and drag link for your Rangy???
Have you already got a HD track rods and drag link for your Rangy???
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
I have the drop arm balljoint type like you have on your rangy on my 90 But with the mount for the front mounted steering damper. However I've had enough of swapping over the ball joints in the arm its not hard but its just a PITA!
I have a spare late arm that uses a std screw in ball joint instead of the ball joint within the arm. My front drag link is to fit the steering damper as per defender up high at the front. I was about to order a new drag link from paddocks but they only do full kits I have no use for the new Track rod.
I have no intention of removing my current track rod its HD and working fine no need to change it.
So I will have spare a brand new track rod inc new ball joints. Plus my current front drag link with a normal ball joint one end and to fit the drop arm ball joint the other plus it has the mount to relocate the steeirng damper up the front out the way of getting wiped out on a disco/Rangy if you make a mount fot the other end on the chassis. (you have to either make a clamp using 2 u bolts and plate to fit the damper to the track rod in original place or relocate it up front as per defender out the way)
I cant quite blow £65+vat just for the different type of Drag link. I'm still looking maybe other companies will sell single drag links instead but seems mad having another new HD Track rod sitting here as they usually never go wrong!
Depends as I suspect you may also want to go the later arm type which is easier for maintainance.
I have a spare late arm that uses a std screw in ball joint instead of the ball joint within the arm. My front drag link is to fit the steering damper as per defender up high at the front. I was about to order a new drag link from paddocks but they only do full kits I have no use for the new Track rod.
I have no intention of removing my current track rod its HD and working fine no need to change it.
So I will have spare a brand new track rod inc new ball joints. Plus my current front drag link with a normal ball joint one end and to fit the drop arm ball joint the other plus it has the mount to relocate the steeirng damper up the front out the way of getting wiped out on a disco/Rangy if you make a mount fot the other end on the chassis. (you have to either make a clamp using 2 u bolts and plate to fit the damper to the track rod in original place or relocate it up front as per defender out the way)
I cant quite blow £65+vat just for the different type of Drag link. I'm still looking maybe other companies will sell single drag links instead but seems mad having another new HD Track rod sitting here as they usually never go wrong!
Depends as I suspect you may also want to go the later arm type which is easier for maintainance.
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
No worries thought i'd say before I put up for sale.
I found a complete kit £126 for a new drag link only and a really really poorly designed sterring damper mount!! Devon 4x4 gotta love their pricing!!
Thay have the same britpart kit for £117 inc vat vs paddocks £65 plus vat!!
I found a complete kit £126 for a new drag link only and a really really poorly designed sterring damper mount!! Devon 4x4 gotta love their pricing!!
Thay have the same britpart kit for £117 inc vat vs paddocks £65 plus vat!!
marccleave
Active Member
Just a thought & looking at some of your pictures - looks like you're still using standard bump stops?
Wouldn't this cause the axle to go too far and cause the issue with your brake hoses?
First thing that came to my mind... Ignore me if wrong.
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
Std bump stops are perfect for trials gotta love those that mod their motors and fit extended bump stops that limits upward travel.
Bump stops only set the max compression
The only reason for extended bump stops are
fitting overly long shocks and using the bump stops to stop the shock topping out and being damaged.
Or
For limiting he upward travel when fitting overly large tyres from rubbing inside of the body work.
Plus 2 shocks you ect away with a lot of std equipment. Even plus 2 shocks won't top out on std bump stops. Lose a bump stop you will damage a shock tho.
Re brake lines can usully tweek std length lines to work with plus 2 inch extra droop given by the plus 2 shocks. The pipe mounts can be made in such a way that it's a lot easier to remove caliper and brake hoses brackets without disturbing the hydraulic system in case of a quick front end shaft swap.
Bump stops only set the max compression
The only reason for extended bump stops are
fitting overly long shocks and using the bump stops to stop the shock topping out and being damaged.
Or
For limiting he upward travel when fitting overly large tyres from rubbing inside of the body work.
Plus 2 shocks you ect away with a lot of std equipment. Even plus 2 shocks won't top out on std bump stops. Lose a bump stop you will damage a shock tho.
Re brake lines can usully tweek std length lines to work with plus 2 inch extra droop given by the plus 2 shocks. The pipe mounts can be made in such a way that it's a lot easier to remove caliper and brake hoses brackets without disturbing the hydraulic system in case of a quick front end shaft swap.
KillaJoules
Active Member
Gotcha new ball yet
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
Ball?
marccleave
Active Member
Another engine...
What did you get?
What did you get?
KillaJoules
Active Member
Now the steering is reconnected you need to find the KEYS so we can get it out, turn the beastie around and get at the engine to pull it out
