James

James

Active Member
I have in the past change the cam belt on a escot diesel and a renalt, I now need to change the one on my 200TDI.

Is it an ok job?

How long should it take?

And finaly, where can I get hold of a timing ki from to set the engin to TDC.(I cant see it on either Paddocks or John Craddocks web sites)

Thanks
 
right pig of a job should take all day on a sat, but depends on how much tea you drink
 
Yella Disco is right the water pump housing does have to come off, took me about 2 1/2 hous to do my defender end of last year, watch out all the bolts are 'slighlty' different lengths on everything u have to take off, wasted half hour as someone knocked me bit of card off wheelarch with all the bolts on grr!!!! Didn't bother using locking tool for pulleys, doesnt tend to move - just mark it first with tipex or similar as most mechanics do.
Make sure you change the sprung loaded tensioner pulley at the same time.
 
Thanks L3on,

Are you sayind dont bother with looking tools at all or just on the fly wheel?
 
I never use any at all, just mark cam, crank and fuel pump (the 3 toothed pulleys) position against block / covers with touch up paint or tipex before removing belt, worse case something turns 1/8th of a turn, and you turn it back manually before fitting belt. Most independant mechanic/garages do it the same way, saves them having to buy countless *special* tools.

Also worth having gasket for water pump housing before you start, as that will probably need replacing too.

PS. if it all goes horribly wrong give me a shout only down the road in Maidenhead :p
 
Thanks for the info, I presume it does not matter what the position the engin is in, basicaly get on and do it.

You are not far away at all.

Thanks
 
With multi cylinder engine (4 plus cylinders) with regular firing orders, there are enough engine components in different stages of the firing cycle for there to be very little potential energy to turn any components more than a couple of degrees, especially in heavy engines such as the Tdi's.

If you were to do the same on a lightweight single cylinder engine on 3/4 compression say, the crank could potentially turn back 180 degrees and rock enough to cause confusion if you weren't paying close attention, but this is realms of theory, and removing the spark plug before starting would prevent this anyway, so i'm waffling pointlessly really :D

In a short answer to your question, no it doesnt matter so long as you mark everything and watch what happens as you release the belt.
 
I was looking in the Haynes manuel last night to gain some extra knowlage of what is required, there is no mention of a Water pump housing anywhere in the book. The only think it talks about is the fan assembly which is in the way, which I guessed anyway.

There is the timing belt cover which has a gasget but I am sure you knew this anyway.
 
The water pump housing is on the upper RHS of the cam belt cover with hoses going to it, and comes off with the cam cover, has a separate gasket to the main outer cam cover to which it is attached. I too use silicone for the main cam cover, but not the water chamber cover, as silicone performs best with oil / dirt and less well with water.
 
In my opinion Haynes manuals = More Fear, Less Knowledge.

If you read them too much, just use the pictures as a guide.
 
I would agree with you very much about the Haynes, however as you say it is a usefull tool to guide you as to where things are and pics of bits.
 
you might need a very thin spanner to get the fan housing off. get one off ebay for about a fiver.
 
Is this a very special thin spanner (thiner than normal) or are there ways round it?
 
only if you grind a normal spanner away till its thin enough but the effort it takes aint worth it ;)
 
So what am I looking for on ebay or can I get this else where, do I simply search for 'A very thin spanner' and the correct one will pop up and then arive in the post to my house?
 
Instead of being cast from chrome vanadium, the spanner is punched out of a sheet of 4mm steel and has a kink in it right by the head. Allows you to slip it in and turn the nut on the crank pulley (nigh on impossible due to clearance with a normal spanner).

They are available in Halfords and most motor factors (Partco, local factors etc); but there are several different sizes as lots of cars need this tool (RWD Fords from the '70s and '80s spring to mind for example). Might be cheaper on E-Bay, but I don't remember them being much more expensive in the shops.

Think (I stress, think) the one you need is 32mm, but stand to be corrected. Bought mine from Partco I think, but I think it's 1mm too big as it is a rather slack fit on the crank-nut.

Malcolm
 
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