When turning the crankshaft, You should still feel the resistance of the Pistons and cylinder compression ( unless the valves have punched holes in the Pistons)
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Gary Gilbert
Member
I did see that that can happen after doing so research and used a flashlight to peek down the pushrod channel. I didn't see any obvious damage but that doesn't mean anything...
I will see today if I can source some parts and how long it will take to get here. I will have to replace all the pushrods cause I didn't think any would be straight so didn't bother keeping them in order... live and learn
Gary Gilbert
Member
I did feel some resistance it wasn't like spinning or anything and I didn't turn it much, I just wanted to see if it moved at all, should I rotate it and see if anything "feels" Strange or makes any crunching noises (which I figure would be somewhat bad rightWhen turning the crankshaft, You should still feel the resistance of the Pistons and cylinder compression ( unless the valves have punched holes in the Pistons)
)
You are going to turn it to tdc anyway. I don't think it can do any (more) harm. Only turn it in the correct direction tho.
In fact, after setting the timing, it is suggested to rotate the crank through to tdc again to ensure timing marks are still correct.
In fact, after setting the timing, it is suggested to rotate the crank through to tdc again to ensure timing marks are still correct.
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
When turning the crankshaft, You should still feel the resistance of the Pistons and cylinder compression ( unless the valves have punched holes in the Pistons)
The Focus bent valves resulting in no/minimal compression without any significant piston damage
Just valve damage.
. I think, though, that the tdi engines tend to bend pushrods, rather than valves. Is this not true?
Gary Gilbert
Member
I read somewhere on landyzone that that tends to be the case and that is also what I am praying like hell that it's also true in our case!!!Just valve damage.
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
Just valve damage.
Yep it's true. I was referifying to your holed piston post.
Not common on a tdi as far as I know.
Usually pushrods as the weak spot and sometimes cam damage
julianf
Well-Known Member
To be sure -
i was talking about turning the cam, and there being nothing more than the friction of the bearing
the crank will, of course, move the pistons against compression (if the valves are sealing ok) - but, with the rocker assembly removed, there should be no conflict
i was talking about turning the cam, and there being nothing more than the friction of the bearing
the crank will, of course, move the pistons against compression (if the valves are sealing ok) - but, with the rocker assembly removed, there should be no conflict
Gary Gilbert
Member
Well at the moment I can't turn the cam with the pully broken off and a piece of the bolt still in there (will try to get it out after breakfast but first a trip to the hardware store to buy a punch)
While we are on the subject of the cam, once I have the bolt out and new pully installed how do I rotate the cam to make sure I am at tdc as I have at the moment no idea where it is in it cycle and am not sure with the new one if the hub assembly will be spot on from the factory.
Will I have to eyeball it without the rocker arm installed and just go with the height of the pushrods? I am guessing that turning the cam separate from the crank won't do the new pushrods any good if I have the rocker reinstalled.
The way I makes sense to me would be to turn the crank to tdc and lock it in place then turn the fuel pully and lock it into place and then without the rocker assembly but the pushrods in place turn it until #1 is at the highest point. That should give me the timing again, or am I mistaken?
After that I would reinstall the rocker and adjust the valve clearance for number 1, the go about installing the belt, tension it and the reset the rest of the valves, put everything back together and say a prayer to the landy gods before trying to see if it will start...
Does that all make sense to you guy or is there some flaw in my thinkink?
Thanks
Gary
While we are on the subject of the cam, once I have the bolt out and new pully installed how do I rotate the cam to make sure I am at tdc as I have at the moment no idea where it is in it cycle and am not sure with the new one if the hub assembly will be spot on from the factory.
Will I have to eyeball it without the rocker arm installed and just go with the height of the pushrods? I am guessing that turning the cam separate from the crank won't do the new pushrods any good if I have the rocker reinstalled.
The way I makes sense to me would be to turn the crank to tdc and lock it in place then turn the fuel pully and lock it into place and then without the rocker assembly but the pushrods in place turn it until #1 is at the highest point. That should give me the timing again, or am I mistaken?
After that I would reinstall the rocker and adjust the valve clearance for number 1, the go about installing the belt, tension it and the reset the rest of the valves, put everything back together and say a prayer to the landy gods before trying to see if it will start...
Does that all make sense to you guy or is there some flaw in my thinkink?
Thanks
Gary
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
The way I seem to remember doing mine was to leave the rocker arm assembly off, put everything in it's correct timing position using a flywheel pin and put the belt on and tension it up. Rotate the engine using the bolt in the bottom pulley and keep an eye on the timing marks whilst turning the engine over as this will show up if you're 180 degrees out without having to worry about the valves coming into contact with the pistons
Gary Gilbert
Member
Sounds like a plan...
Anyone else out there ever have the cam pully bteak off?
Anyone else out there ever have the cam pully bteak off?
Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
No, peak valve lift does not occur at TDC. Can you try roughly positioning the remnants of the cam pulley back on the cam (using the pin as a reference) and turn the sprocket / cam to where the timing mark aligns with the casting mark, that should get you roughly in the right place. Whatever you do don't remove the three bolts from the pulley yet as you will lose the timing adjustment for the cam, wait until you have the new sprocket and then do some careful adjustment and comparison to get the pin and sprocket timing mark in the same relative position
I think if you can get a new pin/sprocket to fit to the cam then the tension on the bolt should stop any further rotation between the pin and the hole once it is tightened, a degree or two of can timing error shouldn't cause any issue with running the engine.
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
In a word no
Gary Gilbert
Member
Woot I claim first!!
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
Well done as your special prize you can pay for me to fly out with you parts
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Gary Gilbert
Member
Thanks for the info..I will give it a try as soon as it decides to stop raining cats and dogs
Gary Gilbert
Member
The only difference right now from here and england is the temperature, it's the rainy season, that and there is no decent chip shop or pub in sightWell done as your special prise you can pay for me to fly out with you parts
