Looks good to me.
Lift kits aren't an issue, providing they are good quality. Easily removed if you don't want them and easy to sell on too ;)
 
The wheel's are easily changed, as is the suspension lift. It's a good price, providing there's no catch. I paid more for my SE auto with similar miles and probably worse condition.
 
The wheel's are easily changed, as is the suspension lift. It's a good price, providing there's no catch. I paid more for my SE auto with similar miles and probably worse condition.

That's what I'm worried about.

From what he's said passenger door lock doesn't unlock on the blipper but does on the key and from inside

I've asked about the VCU but not got an answer yet

Not sure on the value tbh ive got mine (58 plate titanium diesel) in the £3000 category but with the miles racking up to nearly 120k might be nearer £2700

I'm assuming his is worth less as he's stuck his in the £2k category

but I'm sure I can make back some of the difference by selling the bits a you mention to recoup some of the costs
 
If you are to remove the lift, you will need to source new wheels/tyres first obviously. I've not used a lift kit, so I don't know what camber bolts are, I don't know if you'll need to source replacement original parts to replace them, or possibly also need original parts like brake lines. The chassis/body will have also been cut away a bit with a 50mm lift for the shafts - not a biggie, but might be an area prone to rust. Lift kits also chew drive shafts (CVs) so be careful there, LR/OEM parts are not necessarily cheap.

@Gaj1612 is after some of those wheels with chunky tyres - he might be interested in them and the lift kit.

If there's no evidence of a recent replacement VCU from a decent provider - anyone buying a F1 (of any mileage nowadays) should always allow £300 for a VCU and probably support bearings while you've got the props split. On getting the car home, if a 1WUT comes back with 30 seconds, then you can likely buy the diagnostic kit you've always wanted - otherwise its a VCU.
 
If you are to remove the lift, you will need to source new wheels/tyres first obviously. I've not used a lift kit, so I don't know what camber bolts are, I don't know if you'll need to source replacement original parts to replace them, or possibly also need original parts like brake lines. The chassis/body will have also been cut away a bit with a 50mm lift for the shafts - not a biggie, but might be an area prone to rust. Lift kits also chew drive shafts (CVs) so be careful there, LR/OEM parts are not necessarily cheap.

@Gaj1612 is after some of those wheels with chunky tyres - he might be interested in them and the lift kit.

If there's no evidence of a recent replacement VCU from a decent provider - anyone buying a F1 (of any mileage nowadays) should always allow £300 for a VCU and probably support bearings while you've got the props split. On getting the car home, if a 1WUT comes back with 30 seconds, then you can likely buy the diagnostic kit you've always wanted - otherwise its a VCU.

Time for some more questions then, the few freebies I've looked at so far all seem to have rusted on the bit if exposed metal in the rear arch so need to sk bout that and how the lift kits been fitted
 
2K for a Freelander of that year/milage is a good price. I'd expect to see it closer to 3K privately or 4K + from a dealer. The face lift Freelander holds its money very well.
So with that in mind, you need to check it over as it could be a bit scruffy round the edges. The current owner looks to have been methodical in what he has done though.
If you plan on making it standard again, you will need:
Standard wheels and tyres.
2 or 4 standard bolts.
Then.
Remove the lift plates.
Fit standard bolts instead of the camber correction bolts.
Sell the current wheels, the lift plates and camber bolts on. Selling these will recoup the outlay for the set of standard wheels;)
 
I quite look he has tried to achieve and certainly work 2k, id say the passenger rear door has had paint.

Yeah I thought that not a good match if it has, won't be swapping the mondeo for it if it's been in a prang of any sort, I don't do bumped cars full stop, having worked in the trade no accident repair is ever as good as origianl on a normal road car

2K for a Freelander of that year/milage is a good price. I'd expect to see it closer to 3K privately or 4K + from a dealer. The face lift Freelander holds its money very well.
So with that in mind, you need to check it over as it could be a bit scruffy round the edges. The current owner looks to have been methodical in what he has done though.
If you plan on making it standard again, you will need:
Standard wheels and tyres.
2 or 4 standard bolts.
Then.
Remove the lift plates.
Fit standard bolts instead of the camber correction bolts.
Sell the current wheels, the lift plates and camber bolts on. Selling these will recoup the outlay for the set of standard wheels;)

Think tyres will prob be worth more than the wheels!

I've seen a matching set of facelift alloys and tyres for £160, obviously the tyres would need changing for equal tread amount but not to bad price really so if the modulate tyres and lift kit would cover that lot id be happy,

Think I'm at least Gona have a look at it and decide then, not sure weather to ask for some cash my way as mines newer all be it with higher miles
 
Looks like the near side rear door lower section has seen some paint. I'd hardly call that accident damage. Ok it's technically an accident but it's likely only to be a gentle scuff on a low wall or something. I'd look at it with a critical eye before deciding to get it painted properly.
 
I'm RG colour blind so finding it hard to see the paint difference. To me though the plastic trim on the door looks different to the bumper/rear panel trim - maybe its a complete replacement door from a car that's seen more/less sun damage (if that's possible in the UK!). If that's the case, it might have been someone trying to break into it that damaged the original door - our Starlet's got a dent by the 1/4 window where someone stuck a screwdriver through the trim and dent it up to smash the glass - its too old to warrant repairing it.
 
well ive emailed him with a spanish inquisition amount of questions on it so just got to wait now
 
Email mentioned above sent at 10:30 last night via the site, blokes been online today so will have seen it but unsurprisingly no response on being questioned on if it's been in a bump, so this one might be a non starter.
 

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