Hi All,

Having finally got the RR jacked up enough to get underneath it, I'm just trying a few more diagnostics before I bite the bullet and start removing the starter.

You may recall that when I turned the ignition key, the negative battery terminal started smoking after a second.

I've just tried putting a jump lead from the battery negative to the starter and now the positive terminal is smoking when I try the starter.

Is this telling me anything useful? Even if its just to confirm that the starter is indeed knackered?

I've tried tapping it with a block of wood and at one point I did get some sounds other than a click from the starter, but it's back to simply clicking again now. It's a very loud and healthy sounding click though!

Is there anything else I can try or should I just get on and take it off? Any value in running a jump lead from the battery positive to the terminals on the back of the solenoid to exclude the cable? Or is that a bad idea?
 
Hi All,

Having finally got the RR jacked up enough to get underneath it, I'm just trying a few more diagnostics before I bite the bullet and start removing the starter.

You may recall that when I turned the ignition key, the negative battery terminal started smoking after a second.

I've just tried putting a jump lead from the battery negative to the starter and now the positive terminal is smoking when I try the starter.

Is this telling me anything useful? Even if its just to confirm that the starter is indeed knackered?

I've tried tapping it with a block of wood and at one point I did get some sounds other than a click from the starter, but it's back to simply clicking again now. It's a very loud and healthy sounding click though!

Is there anything else I can try or should I just get on and take it off? Any value in running a jump lead from the battery positive to the terminals on the back of the solenoid to exclude the cable? Or is that a bad idea?
Something is drawing a lot of current Guy, a seized starter would do that.
If you have a spare battery, you could try connecting direct to the starter with jump leads. Connect to the starter motor and block, then connect at battery for ease of rapid disconnection.
 
Than Keith,

Can't get a jump lead in there anyway, so have given up for today. I think the starter must be dead - it's certainly not showing any signs of life. I'll try and get another one this week.

I'll try and get a friend to help helicoil the top bolt once its out too which ought to make refitting it a lot less painful.

I'm still worried that a new one is just going to go the same way, but I need to get it running so that I can move it somewhere where I can actually open the drivers door!

I'm almost persuaded to just add a 'press to start' switch somewhere now to isolate the relay - it seems an almost impossible task to actually find the fault.
 
Than Keith,

Can't get a jump lead in there anyway, so have given up for today. I think the starter must be dead - it's certainly not showing any signs of life. I'll try and get another one this week.

I'll try and get a friend to help helicoil the top bolt once its out too which ought to make refitting it a lot less painful.

I'm still worried that a new one is just going to go the same way, but I need to get it running so that I can move it somewhere where I can actually open the drivers door!

I'm almost persuaded to just add a 'press to start' switch somewhere now to isolate the relay - it seems an almost impossible task to actually find the fault.
I think an isolator switch as a stop gap would be a good idea, plus a latching relay & indicator that would show if the line from the BECM has operated when it shouldn't.
 
Thanks TomCat - unfortunately I think the problem is both.

Fancy making me something along those lines Keith?!
 

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