Yes, that rattle suddenly sprang to mind when you suggested the starter was engaging while running - it's intermittent and I hadn't been able to work out what was causing it but with other issues to sort out, it kind of took a back seat.
Well I was thinking of an additional switch but I would rather fix it properly. I just need some way of confirming what is happening.
It's had a brand new fuse box and I can't see anything else that can trigger the starter on the circuit diagram other than the Becm still faulting but replacing it is going to be a big chunk, even via Rick, so I want to be sure.
Starter relay being pulled by the circuit within the BECM being grounded by a fault instead of being grounded through the ignition switch.
It probably is fixed but you have collateral damage in that the starter is fecked. If it fails to disengage when the motor is running, it will die pretty quickly as I found on my Transit.Yes, that's what it went off to be repaired for. Seems like it's not quite fixed.
It probably is fixed but you have collateral damage in that the starter is fecked. If it fails to disengage when the motor is running, it will die pretty quickly as I found on my Transit.
Is the fuse box OK?
The relay was probably melted by overload from the starter motor although the cycling may not have helped.The rattling has been noticed since the becm was repaired and given that the starter was working fine until the last time the battery went flat then all the symptoms suggest to me that the becm is still buggered.
I have no idea how good the fuse box is. There certainly seems to be no smell of burning or any other symptoms, but I had the original one apart and can't find any obvious signs of problems with that one either - I think the melted starter relay that caused the garage to replace it in the first place was probably melted by the becm fault.
Another thought, it may be a problem with the loom from the BECM. On mine the insulation on the loom that goes in the channel under the plastic kick plate in the drivers footwell was worn through by sundry screws left in the channel during manufacture. Worth a look.
A parallel wire will not help as the problem with be a short to the chassis if it's a wire problem. You would have to cut at both ends and replace.Cheers, will have a look when I get back from hols. I'm going to have to replace the starter first though as I can't even open the drivers door where it's currently stuck (right up against a holly hedge - it was fun putting the eka code in!)
I'll remember to pull the starter relay once I've done it though.
Last time I pulled the becm I was impressed at the state of the connectors and cables - I was expecting them to be at least slightly crudded up, but they all looked brand new.
Good idea about tracing the starter wire from the becm to the fuse box. I did idly consider that before but assumed the becm repair had fixed it. It doesn't look an easy wire to trace - might be worth just putting a replacement in parallel but will check what I can when I can get the door open!
A parallel wire will not help as the problem with be a short to the chassis if it's a wire problem. You would have to cut at both ends and replace.
I've had a dodgy ignition switch causing random starter motor operation guy, not on a P38 though.
I'd put in one of those FOB operated units that folks are using to isolate the RF receiver.