M

midnite moocha

New Member
elo lads , p gasket been leaking a while have to top up regular , overheated the other day thought expansion tank was gonna explode blowing water frm all over the place , no good . cooled her dwn refilled coolant made my way home , it now steams all the coolant out exhaust , oh dear . im a diy av a go mechanic on a budget , im guessing head gasket gone , so im in the process of removing and refitting .
all the long bolts thru wp housing seized and snapped off but we getting there slowly , now then wot have i got to set in the way of timing before removing head ? have i got to remove timing belt ? i think i gona get head looked at and skimmed as knockin a bit previously . been told to use elring gasket , its a one holer at mo but it was done by craddocks 7k ago always ****ed oil out back since so id rather have a go myself
 
you wont need to touch timming belt ive just completed doing a total top end rebuild hg head skim cost me around the £100 mark fairly easy job aswell yes use elring head gasket , also refer to the haynes manuel for tolerences after head skim that will tell what hg your need there,s 3 different ones
 
and i also forgot to mention the head bolts need tightening 3 times so get yourself a angle guage as the final tighten is 60 degrees outside bolts 20 degrees inside bolts
 
thanks for the quik response , i had a feeling iwouldnt have to do timing , ive been staring at it puzzled after sumone told me to make sure id got the timing marked .
can i rebuild head or is it best sent away ?
do u think im likely to of done any more damage apart from hg ?
im replacing wp, all gaskets , fan belt , and probably the wp houusing if i can get 1 cheap , theres so much corrosion on this 1 i question if it will seal up again .
so there is different thicknesses even with the elring hg
do u no the sequence to remove head bolts ? cheers phil
 
no mate i mean the big mounting that houses waterpump , with the fan belt tensioner on . its in a bad way realy .the 3 long bolts that attach it have all snaped off but i mananged to get them out the block with mole grips .
 
I take it you were changing the pump anyway as you don't need to touch that to get the head off?
 
yes mate the water leak between block and ally housing was the cause of all the probs , my own fault should of got it sorted before i overheated it .
 
midnite moocha said:
yes mate the water leak between block and ally housing was the cause of all the probs , my own fault should of got it sorted before i overheated it .
Click to expand...

Recieved and understood. They don't like getting hot!. Get a copy of RAVE on board. It will be your bible.
 
robint said:
you wont need to touch timming belt ive just completed doing a total top end rebuild hg head skim cost me around the £100 mark fairly easy job aswell yes use elring head gasket , also refer to the haynes manuel for tolerences after head skim that will tell what hg your need there,s 3 different ones
Click to expand...
head skim dont matter for these, as its piston protrusion above the block face you need to measure.
if you've only got the one hole gasket, its the thinnest to start with.
download that rave link thats been posted and read it carefully tho. theres other bits that will trip you up!
ps - theres 4 hg thicknesses:D
1 hole (thickeness on rave)
2 hole ditto
3 hole ditto
no hole. (thickest. not on rave)
 
robint said:
bastid haynes manuel lied to me then but you are right regarding the piston above the block surface :D
Click to expand...
same on rave, no mention of no holer, and cant remember how i found it....
know the thicknesses go up in .01mm, but cant remember what they start at!
lot of garages fit the no hole cos its biggest so less chance of piston clouting head.
 
right i have removed head and its going for test/skim on monday . noticed droplets of water under rocker cover . so water getting in some wer . if the head is ok is ther anything else ie block, engine that i could of damaged , thru the overheating ? the hg looked reasonable condition with no obvious signs of blowing , ive noticed that the cylinder holes in hg are not perfectly round is this normal ? ther seems to be alot of carbon build up around top of cylinder looks like the gasket was protruding into cylinder
 
right i have removed head and its going for test/skim on monday
thats good, what are the results?
. noticed droplets of water under rocker cover . so water getting in some wer . if the head is ok is ther anything else ie block, engine that i could of damaged , thru the overheating ?
block *should* be ok, tis the head or gasket that normally goes. you might be unlucky and have a cracked liner, tho this usually pressurises water galleries. may have got oil to water while engine not running. was it difficult to turn over at all prior to stripping down?
the hg looked reasonable condition with no obvious signs of blowing
if the head was bent you probly wont notice it. they bend longtitudinally, across all pots. might see it with a straight edge place left to right if its a good bent un.
, ive noticed that the cylinder holes in hg are not perfectly round is this normal ?
its ok. rebuild with a payen or elring of correct thickness.
ther seems to be alot of carbon build up around top of cylinder looks like the gasket was protruding into cylinder
piston protrudes from top of block. read rave, or thread on measuring head gasket thickness for this.
clean all old gasket from block, rub evenly with oil and stone. clean all debris prior to building back up.
change oil and filter afterwards. run for half hour with cheap oil to flush contaminants, then change again for decent stuff.
 
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thanks that was an excellent reponse thanks m8 i mean it .
im takin head to willenhall engine centre monday morning , £40 test and skim . i saw slight corrosion around centre of hg and after putting a good spirit level(straight edge) along it i can see theres roughly a mil or less distortion in the middle . ie both ends touching , centre not .
my next question is ... how will they expect the head ? push rods ,rockers, glow plugs and injecters out ? what about valves ? leave or remove.
it wasnt difficult turning over , it was running fine apart from heaters not working , its my own fault because i didnt sort it , it is possible ive done upwards of 1000 miles with about a litre of water .i realised , toped up and bled .. it then boiled itself followed by steaming like a kettle frm exhaust along with black sooty water . being in the middle of now wer ,in the middle of the night and BEIN A **** i decided to try and drive home 50miles . water ran out , running fine temp fine(obviuosly air temp) .
so basically it run fine until you add water ? not good but hopefully after hg and rebuild should be ok ,if not im in the **** . cheers guys
 
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wouldnt be surrprised if youve completely shagged it.
when i boiled mine, 10 mins or so when green laning so low speeds, new years day last year in snow and ice, (the missus actually noticed when it happened but failed to say owt. cropped up in conversation at dinner time about the "blue ice" under the disco while she was shutting a gate), it bent the head enough for 3 passes on a skimming machine.
a mate drove 8 miles with a bust water pump and his head took 12 passes.

strip the head of everything except valves and springs. make sure they pressure test it before skimming, as if its shagged it'l save the skim.
 
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