Oh yes, that too...Also, just for fun get a spare plastic clip for the clutch fork / slave cylinder rod, Altho mine is running without one, If I had it apart I would fit another one
Cheers
I pressure bled mine using one of those kits that plugs into the tyre....worked fine for me.Oh,
And of it is anything like mine, it was a PITA to bleed , So I ended up reverse bleeding it, So have something to do that if needed. Do not forget which way up the slave cylinder goes.
Cheers
Potentially you will need the clutch fork pivot as well as it is beginning to punch through the fork. I did with mine as the spring clip on the back of the fork had worn a pair of grooves into the ball.
Too true Kwakerman. Thats why I'm trying to find out suggestions of what to get and change/replace.If you have the funds available, the things to replace are those which you can easily get access to while the box is out. Skimping and trying to save a couple of quid can soon become disproportionately expensive (time wise) if you end up having to pull the box a second time to replace what should have been replaced on the first go!
The transfer case intermediate shaft seal rings are pretty easy to do, particularly seeing as the whole box combo is out of your truck, though, you'll need to separate the transfer case from the rear of the main gearbox to do them. Whilst it's all out check the two gearbox breather lines up to the engine bay are clear and open, replace the main gearbox output shaft seal, and check the output gear and its mating spline, these were subject to wear leading to failure in earlier boxes. The intermediate shaft seals are a common point of oil loss and are inexpensive to buy. Worth doing from the point you are at now, you'll be pleased when you park and the beast does not mark it's territory with an oil splot.Too true Kwakerman. Thats why I'm trying to find out suggestions of what to get and change/replace.
Difficult when you haven't had one apart before.
Andy