My EGR valve is currently in situ, having been cleaned last September, along with the manifold. I'm happy to keep mine on there, and clean once a year or so, but how do you deal with the black crud that builds up inside the engine ports? While it's straightforward enough to take the manifold off, soak, and jetwash the innards to get nice and clean, what can be done to prevent the build up continuing inside those ports? Is it a case having to strip the cylinder head off every few years and de-crud things that way? - which seems a lot of effort. But at 90k, mine had a good 4mm coating on the ports, I would imagine it is only going to get worse over time, and eventually clog up. Or does this area get to a point where the crud level stabilises?
Jim
 
I am not a fan of EGR blanking prefer to add a clean working EGR, manifold and MAP sensor every 6 months, I have several spare ones which we the R40 M47 owners change along with our oil every 6 months, I also follow this on my TD4, synergy will in the long run damage your HPFP the T4 guru's whom do the 160 upgrade on the R40 have found this out, so for me keep EGR and clean manifold etc changing them at 6 month intervals also gives you a chance to check out all the hose etc that reside under the manifold etc just my opinion and works for me.
 

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My EGR valve is currently in situ, having been cleaned last September, along with the manifold. I'm happy to keep mine on there, and clean once a year or so, but how do you deal with the black crud that builds up inside the engine ports? While it's straightforward enough to take the manifold off, soak, and jetwash the innards to get nice and clean, what can be done to prevent the build up continuing inside those ports? Is it a case having to strip the cylinder head off every few years and de-crud things that way? - which seems a lot of effort. But at 90k, mine had a good 4mm coating on the ports, I would imagine it is only going to get worse over time, and eventually clog up. Or does this area get to a point where the crud level stabilises?
Jim
The ports could be scraped out as best as possible. The scrapings can be vacuumed up as you scrape. Then use a petrol soaked rag over your finger to clean the ports.
You'll never get all the gunk out right behind the valves, but you'll make the ports cleaner than they were.
 
I am not a fan of EGR blanking prefer to add a clean working EGR, manifold and MAP sensor every 6 months, I have several spare ones which we the R40 M47 owners change along with our oil every 6 months, I also follow this on my TD4, synergy will in the long run damage your HPFP the T4 guru's whom do the 160 upgrade on the R40 have found this out, so for me keep EGR and clean manifold etc changing them at 6 month intervals also gives you a chance to check out all the hose etc that reside under the manifold etc just my opinion and works for me.
That's interesting about the Synergy. Would you and the guru's say that even running with the Synergy on setting 1(the lowest) would have a detrimental affect on the hpp? As the Synergy is currently off car, I'm always open to suggestions. Longevity is my goal, and I suppose I'd get used to the lower power and longer response times if needed.
Also would an 'economy remap' have the same detrimental affect?
Cheers
Mike
 
I can't see the HPFP coming to harm if the power is only increased to that of the MG ZT's 130 Bhp tbh.
I'd happily use a synergy to do this myself, if I can find one at a reasonable price.
 
I dont have a synergy but i do run a bluespark cr tech multi map ,and when i bought this from them they told me that the engine was originally designed to take 160bhp, so as long as you only up the power a bit and dont go ott then there should;nt be any problems as i can see .
 
when I said fuel in the turbo pipes it is when I undid them and what ever it was it came running out
 
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The ports could be scraped out as best as possible. The scrapings can be vacuumed up as you scrape. Then use a petrol soaked rag over your finger to clean the ports.
You'll never get all the gunk out right behind the valves, but you'll make the ports cleaner than they were.

Thanks. Is it the end of the world if the odd bit falls into the port as you are doing this? - i.e. can it be vacuumed out easily enough if necessary?
Jim
 
Managed to give it a good run last night, and the blip at 2000rpm is not present!! Engine does seem to run quieter with the EGR on and smoother, but have to balance that up with the Synergy isn't on, so it's quite a different beast at the mo.
Unfortunately the electrical gremlin reared it's ugly head again. But now it only lasts for the blink of an eye. So more connection checking and cleaning.
Mike
 
Thanks. Is it the end of the world if the odd bit falls into the port as you are doing this? - i.e. can it be vacuumed out easily enough if necessary?
Jim
It shouldn't do any harm as long as the bits are small. An amount would likely come adrift in use and simply burn up in the combustion chamber anyway.

Managed to give it a good run last night, and the blip at 2000rpm is not present!! Engine does seem to run quieter with the EGR on and smoother, but have to balance that up with the Synergy isn't on, so it's quite a different beast at the mo.
Unfortunately the electrical gremlin reared it's ugly head again. But now it only lasts for the blink of an eye. So more connection checking and cleaning.
Mike
Like mine. It has run faultlessly and quietly since refitting the EGR.
 
Had to take it off again. Driving last night, and noticed I was leaving a huge trail of black smoke behind me, and the engine was fluttering.
Thought one of my turbo hoses had split, but on closer inspection I noticed the EGR valve was stuck open.
So the blank is back on. A new egr valve will have to wait though. Lots of other stuff to do on it that's more important and I don't have a bottomless pit of money.
Mike
 
Had to take it off again. Driving last night, and noticed I was leaving a huge trail of black smoke behind me, and the engine was fluttering.
Thought one of my turbo hoses had split, but on closer inspection I noticed the EGR valve was stuck open.
So the blank is back on. A new egr valve will have to wait though. Lots of other stuff to do on it that's more important and I don't have a bottomless pit of money.
Mike
Be interesting to see if the misfire returns with the EGR blank fitted.
 
Yes it's true, for various reasons,some of us have put the dreaded and much hated EGR valve back on:eek:
In an attempt to see if it has an affect on the 2000rpm judder syndrome, @Nodge68 has re-installed his, with positive results.
Personally,I've been considering putting mine on, as I've put the car back to factory standard as i track down an electrical gremlin.
So the Synergy 2a is off, the battery came off for a good charge, all accessible connectors have been cleaned including autobox, ABS and engine ECU.
Ran the car for a week still without the EGR to let it settle, no faults showing! so I thought in for a penny etc. So this morning, i put the EGR back on, which has been off for around 6 years, and started the car backup.
Well I thought I'd killed it:( Cough Splutter Chug Chug,nasty noises, bouncy revs, Cough Dies:eek:
Thinking about it, I thought, got to be the ecu trying to sort itself out, so started it back up. Started, wobbled a bit,then settled down to 750rpm tick over. Won't bore you with the driving it round at various speeds (with some hair raising losses of power) , stopping starting etc while the ecu and autobox sorted themselves out.
So overall, whats it like?
Quieter but less overall power,although the power band is smoother on acceleration. As for the 2000rpm judder, well its not there at the moment, but its only been one day,and this could be due to the ecu's sorting themselves back out.
So if anybody else wishes to try this and see whether it resolves the 2000rpm judder on more than one car, please post in this ere fred.
Cheers
Mike :)
Not read the rest of the thread yet. But this would seem to be something else going on. The EGR valve, is exactly that.... a valve. Under normal driving it is open and allows an inert gas (the exhaust gas) to re-enter the intake chamber, because this massively reduces Nox emissions by way of reducing PEAK combustion temps. Something tested for to gain Type Approval. However at wide open throttle the valve closes, so you have no gas recirculation happening at all.

Full power should therefore be the same with or without EGR fitted. The only thing that may effect this, is if the ECU detects the EGR is not there, or is not responding (as in it doesn't know if it's open or closed as it has been removed). Then it is not infeasible to assume it may be do something to the ECU map or fuelling.
 
A new egr valve will have to wait though
you can have my mine if you want ..
took it off at 37k miles .. be working ok a.f.a.i.k. ..
probably could do with a clean
just PM (conversation) me if you want it ..
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 
Hi Nodge68 i was just wondering if you were planning on keeping your egr valve on all the time now or will you go back to using the egr blank .
Regards Trev.
 
you can have my mine if you want ..
took it off at 37k miles .. be working ok a.f.a.i.k. ..
probably could do with a clean
just PM (conversation) me if you want it ..
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Thank you for the offer, it's extremely kind of you. Going to leave it as it is at the mo while I track down another more pressing issue I'm having. If I believe I need it, I'll Pm you and PayPal you for post costs.
Thanks again
Mike
 
Hi Nodge68 i was just wondering if you were planning on keeping your egr valve on all the time now or will you go back to using the egr blank .
Regards Trev.
I'll be keeping my EGR functioning as is it should. The engine runs so nicely with it connected and working.
 

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