.....and now the time has come, to replace, my buggered gasket.....
. There are a few LR tools mentioned i.e. the tool that slips between the 2 camshaft gears to keep them stationary plus another to fit to the gears whilst undoing the camshaft nuts. It used to be a case of jamming a screwdriver through the gears to stop them from turning but is this possible on the Hippo? I haven't had the cam cover off yet so don't know the setup. Plus, how easy is it to get to the camshaft gears and timing belt bearing in mind how close to the inner wing it is? There is also a tool mentioned for keeping the liners in place, if I don't turn the crankshaft (I have no intention of doing so!), is this tool really needed?
What's the minimum that has to be taken off i.e. can it come off still attached to the exhaust manifold if I just disconnect it lower down. I wasn't gonna bother doing a decoke etc so don't need access to take the valves and cams off.
Any tips on what I should look out for i.e. and known 'hiccups' that I could encounter? Just trying to weigh up the cost in time of doing it myself or getting it into the local garage and get them to do it (ideas of price?).
Finally(!), if the head needs skimming, anybody know of a reliable firm down Hampshire way that does this and what kind of cost involved just for a head skim?
Thanks!
You'll be grand, more daunting than it actually is, work methodically, label everything and place it in trays or compartments.
The cam locking tools, pulley lever etc can all be fabricated.
I made the locking tool, only because I had to wait 2weeks for the supplier to stock it, they are only a few pounds.
Cam Sprocket spokes are 10mm so any piece of aluminium/steel 3mm strap can be bent into a U-shape with 10mm recess to snuggly fit into spokes.
The sprockets need some sort of lever to hold steady so as to remove/loosen nuts. A long piece of bar with strategically placed bolts that inter-lock the spokes will do the job.
Note the position of the sprocket lugs when removed, however when refitting cam carrier, one of them is rotated so as they both lean to one end of the engine. This facilitates cam carrier replacement. Of course head bolts can be removed without removing cam carrier, you just rotate each cam (WHEN BELT REMOVED) independently. A cam carrier should only be removed if there is an oil leak and dont use the LR sealing kit, too dear. Comma or other product will do the job, use 1part Acetone : 1part meths to remove and clean old sealant.
Reset the timing marks using a shaving mirror
Exhaust can be split at downpipe gasket, you will need to break inlet manifold gasket though. Tricky to get at bolts.
Crank nut was the hardest to undo, there is a Sealey fly wheel locking tool that slots into the starter motor bolt housing. Haynes suggests placing car in 5th gear then undoing nut, not as easy as they say. You can try this or make a flywheel locking tool from angle bar and M10 thread bar and nuts.
Wouldnt bother with liner clamp. I asked that question myself...... but not needed as you wont be undoing big end bearings.
If you decide to replace oil rail then sump is easy enough to remove, reseal with red Comma gasket seal. Never bothered with new oil rail myself but very controversal topic on Mg-Rover forum.