Bit of a learning curve for me to be honest, as this was the first one I had ever done
this is the drivers side , passenger side still to go
Bit of a learning curve for me to be honest, as this was the first one I had ever done
this is the drivers side , passenger side still to go
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
engine oil from an oil can works as good as anything,that or heat
Soaked everything with plus gas for a week alas didn’t want to use heat near the back bolt, fuel tank right there, know it’s diesel but didn’t feel comfortable ,also seeing there’s so many wiring looms and sensors everywhere
The hub had the abs and brake pad wear sensors, I just unplugged at the loom to save any risk of removing and breaking them at the hub
But indeed know ur right about the heat
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
thinking twice about doing my a frame now!
Lol, what frame u thinking of doing then plse
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
soaking wont help if its corroded solid lube only eases a nut or bolt once youve got it moving,heat is the only sure help if circumstances allow
Indeed and also speaking with others finding out the bolt rusts solid inside the metal bush and heat and cutting being the only option , alas lack of access certainally didn’t help on the back bolts, not even a stumpy socket a bar
At least gained some invaluable knowledge along the way, but by Christ that bolt took some cutting through , lol
johnlad
Well-Known Member
Would a 4.5 inch grinder with thin cutting disc not of worked better than re-cip saw? Or is there not enough room to fit it in.
Hi mate
No good I’m afraid due to access, some remove the body support and jack the body up, but worries me due to the excess amount. If wires and I would be fearful of pulling wires
However because I know have the rest of the bolts I can put them in a vice and try different things and then pass on the details to others to make life easier
Thought it better to do a dedicated thread here , only because I felt rude posting here in someone else’s post
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rear-upper-wishbones-pic-heavy.333171/
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rear-upper-wishbones-pic-heavy.333171/
No problem my friend.
It's all been very interesting and worth a read.
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
agree, its like the budgie...........cheap! (i use this as a cleaner / de greaser but plus gas is the one and only for me!
I'd agree that plus gas is very very good, far better than WD40, which IMHO, being mainly kero, is just overpriced. I've also had good results using tectane penetrating oil from toolstation....
The ultimate is always heat, I'm fortunate enough to have Oxy Acetylene .... and if that doesn't get it free'd orft, then I just cut the blinking thing off and go from there
OP - I hadn't heard of 3 in one and Acetic Acid .... but I will try it
The ultimate is always heat, I'm fortunate enough to have Oxy Acetylene .... and if that doesn't get it free'd orft, then I just cut the blinking thing off and go from there
OP - I hadn't heard of 3 in one and Acetic Acid .... but I will try it
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
I'd agree that plus gas is very very good, far better than WD40, which IMHO, being mainly kero, is just overpriced. I've also had good results using tectane penetrating oil from toolstation....
The ultimate is always heat, I'm fortunate enough to have Oxy Acetylene .... and if that doesn't get it free'd orft, then I just cut the blinking thing off and go from there
OP - I hadn't heard of 3 in one and Acetic Acid .... but I will try it
Agree heat and Shocking, most stubborn / seized bots n nuts are worked lose with a rattle gun not by the turning torque, just by the shocking, so even if yer rattle gun is not enough to to turn it loose, 20 seconds of shocking will make a huge difference.
Use a pneumatic chisel /hammer with a blunt end , or get some one to give it a few sharp chaps with a hammer as you turn works like magic!
I like OA, but I tend to set light to everything in a 100 yd radius and normally make a bit of a mess, practice i suppose!
I use a MAPP (methylacetylene-propadiene propane.) mix running at full chat via rothernburg gun, an essential bit of kit if you cant source OA, not as hot as OA of course but hottest you gonna get over the counter etc, more than enough to get it bright cherry red etc
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KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
Yep much, MAP-Pro gas burns at a temperature of approx 3,830 degrees Fahrenheit, while propane burns at 3,600 FDoes MAP/PRO burn hotter then that normal Propane?
Any other advantages to it?
Its a mixture of MAPP and PROPANE in the yellow cans for plumbers.
You can use pure mapp as Oxy/Mapp instead of Acetylene etc.
I just use the plumbers mapp from screwfix, with a rothenburg head, can lasts forever just fitted new kitchen and wetroom at home, and been using it on truck for year or so still half full, bonus is i can light a bonfire in the autum in record time!
It heats the bolt much faster and will get to a bright cherry red no trouble at all.
Pic is of an oxy-turbo kit ( mini oxy and mapp ) but its £200, not needed it yet as mapp has solved all stuck bolt probs so far so i have not bothered with it.....
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