There’s your budget gone.
And the next 10 years of weekends :eek:

Don’t throw money at it shotgunning parts. See what’s worsererest and tackle things as they arise. couple of years is usual to get them nice. Longerer if you roll it over or somesuch. You need get spanners out and have a good look at it so you can prioritise what’s what, who knows what’s already been done at this stage
 
Mark Piercy said:
Good point @brianp38dse, the rear brake pipes that run from the outside of the footwell down the chassis toward the rear. I had to do all the rubber flexibles on mine at the rear as the ends broke off the rusted brake pipes. Two chassis to axle flexible pipes and two body to chassis flexible pipes.
Click to expand...

Yep thats the ones, when i did mine i just cut the pipes then just removed the whole flexi with nut and pipe stub it was much easier than trying to undo them.
 
brianp38dse said:
Yep thats the ones, when i did mine i just cut the pipes then just removed the whole flexi with nut and pipe stub it was much easier than trying to undo them.
Click to expand...
I initially wanted to just change the metal pipes... It didn't turn out that way... But it's renewed and all is good in the world apart from Intermittent key fob locking and unlocking :rolleyes:
 
brianp38dse said:
While your poking about the front axle have a look at the radius arm bushes, stick a bar in there and see if the arm moves from side to side if so new bush time,
are you ok at bending and flaring brake pipes if not i can send you a pair of the fiddly ones.
Click to expand...
Thankyou:)
Don't know how hard they are to form yet but I can do the wiggly ones on the front calipers of tratters and they are awkward.;)
 
The front radius arm bushes are very easy to get out but you really need a press and the tool, they can be done using jubilee clips round the bush and a vice, the new bushes are 2mm bigger than the hole they go in, the outside is plastic so does compress.
 
Flossie said:
I have read about a connection giving trouble behind a kick panel but unsure which side at the moment:rolleyes:.
Click to expand...

Ah! - "a connection" - singular - sorry, but there are a few in there ... and yep, as already mentioned, they are on both sides too .....:rolleyes:o_O ..

Have a nosy at the steel core of the rear bumper too - I've seen those just crumble to dust on early 38's :eek:
 
Mark Piercy said:
When you do the axle balljoints don't touch the little coller under the bottom ball joint. It's for the alignment of the shaft and seal.. Which brings me to... Change your drives haft seals while your there. ;)
Click to expand...
I've seen that thread somewhere on the £20 hub enlightenment tool, can't remember where I saw it though.
Ally tube with a bearing heat shrunk on to it. Used to knock a new seal in too.
I've also read about that collar adjuster, Ta:)
 
Henry_b said:
Rebuild of the EAS compressor and Valveblock, and maybe a goosey gander at the airbags while youre there!

Drop links and D bushes + both the drag link and tire rod..

Depending on wear of course!!
Click to expand...
Air bags look good but I'll be able to see better once it's over me pit.
EAS seems to work great, goes up and down quite quickly with no nasty noises. Obviously not tried it on the road, motorway change and whatnot but she goes to extended height with the dash switch ok.
I'll get the mot stuff sorted first then run her around and check for non mot niggles later. I don't know if the autobox is any good at this point so I won't waste a filter/oil change on that yet. If it is good, that'll be carried out straight away.
I think I may have an engine running issue further down the line, conks out regularly on cold start idle, starts back up fine. 4 yr old diesel/fuel filter might be the problem there. Tank flush and injun service might fix that.
I love it !
So excited:D.
 
Disco1BFG said:
Ah! - "a connection" - singular - sorry, but there are a few in there ... and yep, as already mentioned, they are on both sides too .....:rolleyes:o_O ..

Have a nosy at the steel core of the rear bumper too - I've seen those just crumble to dust on early 38's :eek:
Click to expand...
I did notice the lower edge looked crumbly when I fitted the replacement camera for the reversing eerrrr...camera..
I might remove the rear bumper to have a better look and repair.
 
Start with the obvious then work your way through the little bits. Try not to tackle too much otherwise you'll tie yourself in knots. Start with the basics (engine, transmission, brakes) then as you go along keep a note of all the little bits you come across. If you just start firing the parts cannon you'll find your bank balance will suffer terribly.
 
Flossie said:
I did notice the lower edge looked crumbly when I fitted the replacement camera for the reversing eerrrr...camera..
I might remove the rear bumper to have a better look and repair.
Click to expand...


Avoid taking the bumper off unless absolutely necessary. The brackets in the end of the chassis rails rot, the tinwork on the bumper itself all rots, the torx screws under the bumper rot or round off. Its basically one big rust trap unfortunately.
 
Flossie said:
As some of you know, I've got meself a P38 diesel auto 2001 106k on the clock, been stood 4 yrs.
I should be able to get her in my garage, once I've made room, by the weekend.
In the 2 weeks that she's been here I've been fiddling and everything seems to work but I can't drive it on the road until mot day.
So far I have
Got a nancom Evo
A new starter battery
An updated alternator regulator
Downloaded vol 1 and 2 of the workshop manual and also the electrical manual, all off a link someone kindly put up and in their words " not rave but the same as" or words to that effect.
I've also purchased a ball joint removal tool kit that martyuk used when I googled searched balljoint replacement.

View attachment 243991
My plan is to replace
All 4 balljoints on the yokes.
All trackrod ends.
All 4 discs.
All 4 calipers
All brake pads.
All brake flexi's
All rear brake pipes (at least)
5 new tyres
Drop the tank and flush out.
At least 2 new rear exhaust boxes.
Renew diff, transfer box oils.
Oil change on the engine plus air, oil, fuel and pollen filters.
Replace coolent.
New stat
New metal impeller water pump.
If YOU were in my shoes and knowing what you know about p38's now...
What would you oil/grease/inspect/ modify (by mods, I mean things like fuel pump floor access hole, not bling or off road stuff).
EAS works and all bags look good .
I want to do 'something' to the autobox for the good or am I best leaving it alone.?
Click to expand...

Radius arm bushes.
Propshafts (check and grease).
FIP may be tired. Same with timing chain and sprockets.
Transfer box: viscous coupling may be getting stiff (scrubbing on outside edges of tyres?). Morse chain might be tired but will probably be OK for another 40k.
May need new radiator and possibly condenser for air-con.
Airspings plus dampers.
Talk to Kurt for spare compessor and put it under passenger seat for emergencies.
 
Flossie said:
I've seen that thread somewhere on the £20 hub enlightenment tool, can't remember where I saw it though.
Ally tube with a bearing heat shrunk on to it. Used to knock a new seal in too.
I've also read about that collar adjuster, Ta:)
Click to expand...

Think that was on an EntropyUK thread.
 
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