Hi Folks,

New to the forum and maybe someone here has some advice to help me power loss saga....

Here goes....

I've got a 2011 Freelander 2, 2.2 TD. I've had it about 2 years and never a single issue with it....

I dropped it in to a Land Rover Mechanic to do oil change, oil filter and fuel filter purely for convenience as I didn't have time to do it myself. When I got her back, it was fine for about 2 days until I experienced a total loss of power / throttle response. With foot flat to the floor, nothing would happen and she would barely crawl and once started moving then it was like the engine had the power to kick in and pull away but was severely underpowered. I left it parked outside for an hour or two and when I came back to it, it drove perfect as if nothing was wrong...

The following day, it nipped into work no issue but when sitting in traffic on the way home the exact same thing happened. I again left the engine go cold and it started back 100% again.

I dropped it back to the garage who'd done the work, and he rechecked all his work, checked all connections he could see, blanked off the EGR, checked that turbo activator was stroking, etc. and could not find anything. When the issue happens there are no faults on the dash and nothing showing on the generic fault reader for the engine, transmission. He could get the issue to happen by leaving the engine get hot but could not find anything wrong.

He thought it may have been the throttle body but didn't want to charge me for one in case it wasn't it as he wasn't sure. I then bought one myself and fitted it, and it has not resolved the issue.

I brought it to the main dealer then. The drove it up and down the motor way for an hour but couldn't get it to happen. All they could see was an old alarm for "Fuel Pump Activation Short Circuit" but as they couldn't get the fault to happen again, they couldn't see if the alarm happened when the power loss did. To be fair to the main dealer, they didn't charge me anything for the day and sent me on my way saying come back if it happens again and they'll start with the fuel pump. Lo and behold, 20 mins after I took it back, sitting in traffic it's still happening.

It's now booked back in to the main dealer, but due to their waiting list it will be 3 weeks before they'll see me.

Anyone else have any ideas or suggestions or seen a temperature related power loss issue before? While it is more of an irritation than anything on the commute, we have horses so should anything happen to them, the freelander currently doesn't have the power to pull them up hills so we'd be stuck so if I can do anything in the mean time to the main dealer visit I will try it

Thanks!

I wonder why the main dealer took it out down the motor way when you say the problem occurs sitting in traffic?

I can't help with your problem. I'm surprised a diesel has a throttle, didn't think there was one on a diesel engine as its speed is controlled by the amount of fuel injected. Newer engines must be different.

Sadly well beyond my knowledge really but as happens in standing traffic wondering if it could be a heat or temp sensor somewhere that then puts the car into a low power mode to “protect” the engine ? Or a sensor the checks the fans perhaps telling the car they have stopped so it wants to not go , I know you’ve said no obvious sign on the dash but do you have a LR specific code reader (I’ve got the iCarsoft LR2 not connected in anyway with selling them simply saying what I’ve found very useful) that can perhaps track live data while it happens ? I’d be inclined to check that out before getting expensive with a new fuel pump ..

I have identical problem. Away on holiday at the moment but getting it looked at when I get home. Mate had a problem with the fuel pressure sensor and has been suggested on here to look st the throttle position pot. Please post on here if you resolve this problem. If my one gets sorted I will keep you updated.

Any results on the problem yet.
Davie

Ok Freelander in Garage, they suspect egr valve, they informed me that egr works when engine cool but when left to idle with bonnet shut to build up heat and the problem manifests itself the egr fails. The garage also spoke with the local LR dealer who diagnosed a failing egr. Will keep you informed of developments.

Have you had the DTCs read? You say that you had the fuel filter changed and then the fault manifested itself. I had a similar problem with mine and got a code of P0183. It turned out to be a bad connection with the fuel temperature sensor on the fuel line on top of the filter. It had come unclipped but looked fine. I clipped it back in and used a toothpick to make sure that it didn't come out again. Back to full power!

Egr replaced but not the problem. No codes, car goes great hot or cold until stopped or in very slow traffic then absolutely useless no power at all. Local garage, JLR garage and specialist stumped. Surely if it goes so well it can't be major. If it happens pull over let it cool for 30 mins then fine could drive a couple of hundred miles as long as don't get stuck in traffic.

Ok tonight I had same problem, put the gearbox in sport, selected first and used the gears manually and accelerated away from junction and up through gears no problem, put it back in normal drive and gutless tried gears again no problem so will speak to garage and see if oil flush will help also check oil cooler

Tried again but now gutless when selecting gear, funny tried car today left it to idle for 15 mins then went for a run, heavy rain and splashed through a couple of puddles and weirdly full power was restored, pulled in and pulled away no problem. I have been scouring evoque forums aswell and some have same problems. This is mad JLR should have some idea. Craig have you had any luck.

Could be your auto tx fluid is getting too hot. Have you checked the gearbox oil cooler? Blocked? Kinked hoses? Air locked? Silly sod accidently drained some fluid?

Hi guys new to the forum and new to Landrovers just bought a 2011 2.2 TD 4 HSE with 46000 miles on the clock and I have experienced this issue as well
First attempt at repair new fuel pump.
Second time it happened the garage couldn't trace any fault so rest all the codes that were showing and I ran the car for another couple of weeks then it happened again.
This time I took it to a different Landrover garage.
They traced the fault to the accelerator pedal sensor.
They checked the sensor and pedal and found no issues with it.
They did a software update and so far no issues with the car since .. hope this helps

Oil was checked and in good condition, its booked back in on Monday and getting them to check gearbox fluid and cooling. If not that going to get them to get it onto local JLR computer as I will be away. Tbh I would like the gearbox flushed and filter changed so will take to them about that. Interesting about getting software update, spoke to JLR tech and he said there isn't one but found out that evoque has same problem and they have done software updates.

As far as I know the accelerator pedal in freelancer 2 and evoque are the same unit as near as makes no difference. And the parts bin at JLR tends to be thrown at lots of models over a long period.

Mungojerry said:

As far as I know the accelerator pedal in freelancer 2 and evoque are the same unit as near as makes no difference. And the parts bin at JLR tends to be thrown at lots of models over a long period.

Click to expand...

Think you'll find the F2 was made up out of the Ford parts bins.

GrumpyGel said:

Think you'll find the F2 was made up out of the Ford parts bins.

Click to expand...

As I say new to both the Landrover brand and this forum...
But as they were owned by ford o at one time be a surprise

Mungojerry said:

As I say new to both the Landrover brand and this forum...
But as they were owned by ford o at one time be a surprise

Click to expand...

Yeh, my F1 shares loads of parts with Rover cars of the era, the F2 shares bits off Mondeo and Volvo XC's.

Can remember being really taken aback when we spent good money buying a nearly new Discovery1, then driving it home started to cotton on to all the bits that were in our Metro as well. Even the door handles were off Marina I think.

Drove 70 miles no issues, stopped at traffic lights and power just died, managed to nurse it up to a steady 50 and 5 miles later back to normal, plenty power and acceleration, drove home 70 miles with no problem and left it idling for 10 minutes and got lpss of power, shut engine down and opened bonnet for exactly 5 mins and back to normal. Even though the fans work and temp gauge is steady in the middle I think it feels hot when I first open the bonnet. Think best hope is whatever is causing the problem screws up properly