I would have a good look at your earths then. this is where the multi meter is handy so co can test off the battery at connectors, earth points etc . Makes finding location of fault much faster. Sounds like the electrical system is well under working efficiently. Stereo system is a good test as it will require at least 9v to work. Even pull off the battery terminals and give them a good clean up and make sure they are tight.
 
cheer fella, to test earths with that battery i just go from the earth to the +ive on the battery?

wondering if i could be alternator related...? brand new alternator but i have modified the wiring at the alternator to fit the TD loom.. cant see where it could go wrong tho!
 
Thats the best way. you will probably need an extension for your multi meter test wires.
could possibly be alternator issue and the volt meter will determine if it is or not very fast.
Take your battery voltage reading before starting then onto the power output from alternator (should be around 13 to 14v)
 
I think I have sorted mine. (fingers crossed) the earth strap that goes from the trans box to battery neg has a piece of insulation stripped off it an the gearbox x-member has a small hook type clip connected to it .. so I cleaned it up with wire brush an reatached it, and all seems ok :) I will let you know how it go's over the next day or so
 
I think I have sorted mine. (fingers crossed) the earth strap that goes from the trans box to battery neg has a piece of insulation stripped off it an the gearbox x-member has a small hook type clip connected to it .. so I cleaned it up with wire brush an reatached it, and all seems ok :) I will let you know how it go's over the next day or so


Yep, that could have been enough to have caused it - especially if damp.

Hope it stays cured for you - worth a spray of silicon or wd40 when you're next under there
 
hmm battery light stuck on for a while this morning.. tried revving and it went out but came back on, then went off and stayed off.. maybe it is an alternator issue? will get the multimeter on it if/when it stops raining!

i think il also check that bonding strap on the gearbox!
 
Yep, that could have been enough to have caused it - especially if damp.

Hope it stays cured for you - worth a spray of silicon or wd40 when you're next under there
well i have been running it all day with lights on an everythink has been OK:D wd40 at the ready cheers SH

hmm battery light stuck on for a while this morning.. tried revving and it went out but came back on, then went off and stayed off.. maybe it is an alternator issue? will get the multimeter on it if/when it stops raining!

i think il also check that bonding strap on the gearbox!

karlos yours defo sounds like it could be the alternator .... i had that problem with battrery light staying on,on a 110 i had a few years ago (but no temp problems) changed it an everythink was ok after that.. hope you get it sorted soon mate.. mine had only been doing it for a week or so an i was near pulling my hair out
 
Hmm does anyone recon it could be the alternator belt that is old and knackred? Tried tightening it and it seemed to go abit better.. The belts are making a strange squeaky noise, but not like a slipping squeal!
 
if you have noise coming from the front of the engine even after tightening the belt then i would also have a look at the crank harmonic balancer to make sure it has not started to come apart. Normally when they do you end up with more issues than just the squealing noise though.
 
No its the pulley that the drive belts run off down on the crank. They are a metal unit which has a layer of rubber between it to absorb vibration. if it is worn out or cracked then the pulley may turn at a reduced speed or not turn at all and when you load the vehicle up with lights on and power steering it puts it under even more load making it even more likely to fault.
 
Hmmm, is there another way of diagnosing that issue? It's a new engine (to me..) so I'm not sure of any previous problems!
 
you can check while the engine is running to see if there is a wobble at all coming from the crank pulley. I think though you should test your alternator and earths first so you can eliminate the obvious
 
I did notice the crank pulley wobbling quite a lot.. :-( I Agree tho, will check alternator and earths when I get chance! Tried the otherday but needed another pearson to help and I was on me own!
 
Can you get a socket in on your crank bolt. check it is tight for starters. I will try find some photos as to what to check on the crank pulley. You really need to remove the drive belts and have a good feel of the pulley. If drive belts are over tightened it will lead to premature failure of the crank pulley
 
here is a photo i found in google showing what happens to them. (don't think that will be off a landy though)
DFAF2C1.jpg

Best thing to do would be to remove the pulley and inspect the rubberthat joins the outer pulley to the inner section. The rubber is very thin between the two surfaces maybe around 1 or 2mm
 
Cheers mate, the crank bolt is tight. I have kept my eye on that as I didn't have a torque wrench so just went ft!

I did notice when fitting the pulley that the rubber bit between was sort of bulging out in parts.. Is that normal?
 
Wouldn't normally think so but it could just be where they have injected the rubber when making the pulley. To b honest i have not had a good look at many land rover diesel engines so i would suggest someone like jamesmartin would be able to tell ya. You can try if your careful levering from behind the pulley outwards with a pry bar to see if you get any movement in it. that would probably best to try with all the drive belts off.
If only you lived near by i am sure with some help the issues you have could be found within minutes.
 
I kno! If some who knew what they were looking for had a look. I might post a thread to see if anyone is about. I think il get new belts and check the voltage and current on the alternator.. Try and have a play with the earths and if that's no good look into the pulley.
 

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