tyregeezer

tyregeezer

Well-Known Member
Hi all following on tdv6 engine removal body on thread have now stripped the motor was going to use the heads for another project but on strip down it appears the shells have not spun and the crank has not touched the block or caps, one con rod minor scuff will replace, no apparent cylinder damage now considering getting a oem std crank, checked and polished by a local machine shop cylinders honed and rebuild with new shells, oil pump, belts, cam chains, etc. what do you all think keep the faith TY
crank broke.jpg
bearing caps.jpg
pump crack.jpg
 
Sure I read that when they break they warp the block rendering it scrap, ie the mains are not 100 percent in line anymore?
Mains bolted back in and get an engineering shop to check the alignment?
 
Hi mate yes is going to a local machine shop for measurements and honing if ok. there does not seem to be any sign of damage to shells or caps so remaining hopeful going to carry on this build on my original thread tdv6 engine removal body on many thanks TY
 
May i ask plse will they just try and weld that crack or will they have to stitch it plse

apologises for all the questions , just very interested

many thks
 
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The crack is in the oil pump photo not that clear no damage to block at all (hopefully) none visible as lynall said mains only need to be a few tho out of line and its scrap hoping not. last engine i rebuilt totally was a v6 s pack Granada done a few, really the only differences are everything lol looking forward to it though. i really want to find out exactly from a machine shop what they can do as i also want to build a motor for myself block up also the costing will be interesting will take your advice and go back to tdv6 engine removal body on for future posts will be in workshop tomorrow will post more pics keep the faith
 
A question if I may. When the crank throws its hand in would the engine still run and drive, albeit with a lot of added noise?.
 
No they pretty much seize immediately they normally spread the main bearing housings in the block or the crank clatters into them the 2.7 in pics above broke in the same place block was checked out by local machine shop and will be fitted with a re-polished s type crank
 
tyregeezer said:
No they pretty much seize immediately they normally spread the main bearing housings in the block or the crank clatters into them the 2.7 in pics above broke in the same place block was checked out by local machine shop and will be fitted with a re-polished s type crank
Click to expand...
So my LR3 that has obtained a noisy knocking noise, but still drives and looses the noise around 40 mph, probably has not got a broken crank?.
 
No a broken crank is pretty instant terminal would check it out though, hard to guess but could be something bottom end related maybe related to oil pressure but the noise normally doesn't stop can you post a video with sound, maybe @gstuart would tell us what he thinks
 
must confess at first I thought it was the injectors but see they came back fine, assume the garage done an injector cylinder balancing offset readings to see how they are at different rev ranges, indeed have data of what they should be above and below 750 rpm

nothing to loose but I would check the engine oil filter to see if there’s any metal filings in there , if there’s nothing that counts out the shells and crank

fit a genuine oil filter then change the oil from 5/30 to 5/40

Didn’t realise the noise goes away at 40mph as indeed if there was a crank issue it certainly wouldn't do that , would then get an oil pressure gauge on there to see what the oil pump is producing as if it’s low the hydraulic buckets would slap causing a tapping sound seeing the inlet / exhaust gaps would be larger than factory specs

but at the end of the day that’s just a guess as I know many of u here are greatly more knowledgeable than myself , just my two pence worth
 
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Also just thought ref it going through a lot of standing water , has the snorkel but has that been fitted correctly as some of them are just RAI and not truly waterproof , as another thought is could it have in-gressed some water and slightly bent one of the don rods ??

Did see compression tests were done but alas couldn’t find the results as I assume that would show any issues, ie bent conrod etc

but going back would personally first have that oil filter out first and then go from there
 
gstuart said:
Also just thought ref it going through a lot of standing water , has the snorkel but has that been fitted correctly as some of them are just RAI and not truly waterproof , as another thought is could it have in-gressed some water and slightly bent one of the don rods ??

Did see compression tests were done but alas couldn’t find the results as I assume that would show any issues, ie bent conrod etc

but going back would personally first have that oil filter out first and then go from there
Click to expand...
Many thanks for this input, I will take a look at both the filter and the snorkel tomorrow. Failed oil pump was mentioned by the garage, problem I have is that the top end of the engine is in the boot of the motor!. I am not yet ready to give up on it until I know for sure what is wrong.
 
hoopfish said:
So my LR3 that has obtained a noisy knocking noise, but still drives and looses the noise around 40 mph, probably has not got a broken crank?.
Click to expand...
More often than not its 1 or more of the injectors gone out of range. If you have access to a gap tool you can easily check it. Replace bad injectors with new as they need coding.
 
If injectors have a clean bill of heath the most likely sources are top end, lifter or cam chain can get loud because of oil pump issues, bottom end usually knocks on acceleration quietens when you take your foot off, if you think the noise was indeed bottom end it will stripping and inspection if you can post with sound a video someone may be able to identify
 
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