I thought the only sensor that could immobilize the td5 completely was the crank position sensor?
So seems strange and would point to electrical, but if information is relaying back to nanocom I'm well and truly confuzled.
 
Hi Brown,

I can't remember exactly the symptoms, but wasn't one of your issues, you thought you were getting diesel in oil? Have you put a fresh pot of oil in after the injector seal change, just so you can monitor it?

What issues have you now got? Not starting? Is this since the injector seal change? I've not kept up with the thread so will go back and read from scratch!

P.s. Did you extract with the tool? Tracking says they tried to deliver yesterday with no joy, but now has a question mark so I can't tell if you got it etc or where it is lol!
 
Hi Brown,

I can't remember exactly the symptoms, but wasn't one of your issues, you thought you were getting diesel in oil? Have you put a fresh pot of oil in after the injector seal change, just so you can monitor it?

What issues have you now got? Not starting? Is this since the injector seal change? I've not kept up with the thread so will go back and read from scratch!

P.s. Did you extract with the tool? Tracking says they tried to deliver yesterday with no joy, but now has a question mark so I can't tell if you got it etc or where it is lol!

Yes, thanks for posting me the tool. In the event I got impatient and ground myself a hook to fit in a slide hammer and pulled the injectors out that way (well, it was good enough for Ratty). No card through the letterbox or anything yesterday (I was out the back for a while playing with the Land Rover) so I'm not sure what's happened to your package either. Let's hope they try again!

Yes, I did change oil and filters so I know where the level is is on the dipstick now. So I'll be able to see if it's accumulating any more.
 
I thought the only sensor that could immobilize the td5 completely was the crank position sensor?
So seems strange and would point to electrical, but if information is relaying back to nanocom I'm well and truly confuzled.

It's not even trying to catch when I spin it on the starter. The Nanocom is getting cylinder balance values and rpm. It can see the potentiometer values from the throttle pedal changing as I press it, and it can see faults when I disconnect stuff.

It's getting a bit like Dr Evil's V8. I suppose it had to happen to someone now he's off the forum.
 
It's not even trying to catch when I spin it on the starter. The Nanocom is getting cylinder balance values and rpm. It can see the potentiometer values from the throttle pedal changing as I press it, and it can see faults when I disconnect stuff.

It's getting a bit like Dr Evil's V8. I suppose it had to happen to someone now he's off the forum.

Sent pm on electrical
You could try a small blast of solvent brake cleaner and get it to fire- if it continues to run its fuel pressure related- if it doesn't then I reckon thatcham alarm failure strong possibility
 
Last edited:
Sent pm on electrical
You could try a small blast of solvent brake cleaner and get it to fire- if it continues to run its fuel pressure related- if it doesn't then I reckon thatcham alarm failure strong possibility

When it first broke down the AA men had it running (briefly) on gas into the inlet manifold, so I haven't tried that again. Yes, it stopped once the gas was used up.

I might try the alarm guy who fitted my Thatcham to see if he can come out and at least check it over just to eliminate that possibility.

Interestingly, once a TD5 engine is running it doesn't necessarily need the full fuel pressure to keep going. You can unplug the pump completely and it'll keep going. Shifty's noticed this too, so it's not just me.
 
On a fuel pressure note, have you got access to a pressure tester that you could screw into the fuel temp sender hole in the FPR block? You need to be getting a minimum of 4 bar pressure there...

PS Skimmed the thread again, and didn't see this checked...
 
On a fuel pressure note, have you got access to a pressure tester that you could screw into the fuel temp sender hole in the FPR block? You need to be getting a minimum of 4 bar pressure there...

PS Skimmed the thread again, and didn't see this checked...

There's fuel coming through but dunno about the exact pressure. I don't have a gauge to hand.

Tomorrow I'll see if I can see an electrical signal getting through the terminals on the injectors first, and if there is I'll start looking at fuelling again. The other possibility is a blockage behind the fuel pressure regulator somewhere - I think there's a little mesh filter in there somewhere? Whilst I have tried to be as clean as possible when taking the pump out or changing the filter maybe some muck has got up the pipe.
 
I think there's a little mesh filter in there somewhere?

Yeah there's a tubular mesh filter that is held inside the head by an o-ring that sits behind the FPR...

One thing that _can_ happen when the injector seals/washers fail is exhaust pressure can get into the fuel system, usually you end up with a blacked up filter/mesh on the fuel pump and a blacked up air bleed valve. Some folks think this can also lead to premature FPR failure due to the massive exhaust gas pressures...

Not saying this is what has happened, but it might be worth pulling the pump to check the mesh/filters too.

This just costs time.
 
Did you change the FPR? Have you had it running since the new filter head went on?

What positions did you put the hoses back onto the head?

I can't remember what point yours stopped firing?
 
Have you had the fuel line off the FPR with the ignition pumping to see if you have fuel coming out the feed pipe?
 
The fuel pressure regulator is the one the vehicle came with as far as I know. When it first broke down one of the AA men pulled the input hose off the FPR and fuel comes out of it with the ignition on. I've tried it since and there's still fuel coming out of there. I've not done any further dismantling of the FPR or fuel pump yet.

If it turns out that there is a signal at the injectors, I shall try my spare fuel pump and see if that makes a difference, and if not try the FPR.

Oh, the last time it fired was around 4 pm on the 19th of December. Aside from the AA man's aerosol, the engine has been completely silent since. From what I read on here, these engines will run if there are things wrong with them, just not very well. Timing out, the odd injector failure, gaskets leaking, hairline cracks in the cylinder head, poor fuel feed, injectors not coded to the ECU and so on, they'll at least cough a bit and turn over under their own steam, they just don't sound very nice. Something's happened that's just cut it off in its prime.


On the positive side I've done a good few useful jobs on the Land Rover over the last few days. New fuel filter head, a service, new injector washers and seals. I even changed the wiper switch while I had the dash apart this afternoon.
 
Just a thought on the pump. I'm not sure that I'd agree with the AA chaps who said that they'd expect more current to be drawn if it was blocked. If its (as I think that it is) a centrifugal type its possible that its cavitating or stalled, which can use less power to spin it. (When I say stalled I mean it in the fluid dynamics sense - a vacuum cleaner spins faster when its blocked, f'rexample).

I was going to say that this doesn't fit with the other symptom - loads of fuel getting through to fill the sump - but then realised that the leaking injector will probably have been doing that for a while, and this stopping could be a separate fault.
 
Well, if there's any sign of a signal at the injectors, I'll know it's not an immobiliser fault, and I'll try my spare fuel pump.
 
Well, if there's any sign of a signal at the injectors, I'll know it's not an immobiliser fault, and I'll try my spare fuel pump.

Might be worth pulling the BCU out to see if there's any sign of water ingress... Actually, does the Defender have a BCU like the D2?
 
Last edited:
Might be worth pulling the BCU out to see if there's any sign of water ingress... Actually, does the Defender have a BCU like the D2?

Well if it does I can't find it! No, mine's pretty basic. Not even ABS, just the ECU. You'd think it would make it easier to work on . . . .
 
Well, I've just been out to check a few more things to find the Land Rover completely dead. A multimeter across the battery terminals revealed that I'm down to somewhere near 4.5 volts. Tried another meter and it said pretty much the same thing. How did that happen so soon I wonder? I had it charging for a few hours a couple of days ago when I did the injector seals. Maybe I've got a duff battery to add to the troubles. I've left it on charge for a while and we'll see if I can get back anywhere near 12v over the course of the day, so I can start testing things again. See if there is any current drain when it is switched off, for starters.
 

Ahh, you're too kind. I'm having a run of stuff breaking lately. Over the last three weeks I've had to replace my door entry cctv, a mobile phone (only discovered to be duff when I broke down t'other day) and a microwave. This is turning out to be quite an expensive Christmas.
 
When the fuel pump is priming does it sound normal or does it sound louder or whiney?
 

Similar threads