Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
True.
Car still not turning over Battery full charged it’s not siezed & no lights on dash before it broke down Plenty of fuel in it Just nothing when I turn key
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
if youve got no dash lights could be ignition switch ,main fuse etc
Interceptorxj
Well-Known Member
Hi James, from the OP he has ignition lights but in his reply above "no lights on dash before it broke down" i.e when it was running.
Hi Yes car was running fine no issues no warning lights on dash It just lost power on motorway & eventually cut out & wont crank over I’ve charged battery & still same It has dash lights & once I turn over nothing happens I’ve done the key sequence & still same
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
If you turn the headlights on and turn ignition to crank do they dim?
No they don’t dim
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Then if fusible link FL12 is not blown and you are sure that the starter relay is working the engine is not seized cos if it was and power got to the starter the lamps should have diminished hard and eventually FL12 blew ... so first of all check FL12
btw... did you check anything untill now since you opened this thread ?
So can we take it from this that it does turn over on the starter, i.e. the engine goes round turned by the starter?
If so, looks to me like a fuel problem or possibly crank position sensor, but as per my earlier post I'd still say fuel not reaching cylinders.
from this post we still need to know whether this means that the starter will or will not turn the engine.
If it won't and the engine is not seized, then it is a starter problem, i.e. probably dodgy contacts in the starter itself.
but you can test this by taking a lead from the batt positive to the push on connection on the starter just to check it isn't in the ignition switch or anywhere else between that and the starter.
If, when you turn the ignition key to the last position, you can hear a click but it doesn't let the starter turn over then it could well be the contacts in the solenoid not making a good enough connection. This can often be overcome by repeatedly turning the key to final position.
But it could also be the starter inhibitor from the gearbox circuitry has gone haywire and will not allow you to start the car cos it thinks it isn't in neutral or park. But I doubt that as it was all OK before the other problem came about.
I do not really believe in coincidence so I don't think that more than one problem can occur at the same time unless one problem causes another such as a short causing a fuse to blow.
Again, we have to take it this means you turn the key and the engine does not rotate, i.e. starter motor not engaging. If so see above.
Possibly relevant to this thread is a problem that happened to a friend of mine's TD5. The engine stopped and then the starter refused to turn the engine over. Had it seized? No, the engine could be turned over with a socket on the crankshaft bolt. Had the starter jammed? No. Was there enough power? The battery looked healthy with a voltmeter and jump leading a second known good battery to the first produced the same symptoms. Eventually the problem was found - one of the bolts holding an injector clip had snapped, allowing the injector to come loose and letting fuel into the cylinder, hydraulically locking it. Turning it over by hand was sufficiently slow that the fuel was able to escape, but the starter was trying to turn the engine over at 260 rpm and met with resistance. The clue was that after a while the oil level started to go up, prompting a look under the rocker cover, whereupon the problem was obvious. The engine, the starter and the injector appear to have survived their ordeal and are still going, as far as I know, three years later.
Interesting. But no mention of this gradually coming on, as in the OP's case, also presumably if this was the case and it happened while driving along, there would be some kind of a misfire?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
I say again, if the starter circuit works(the starter solenoid gets feed on crank) and the engine is seized the current draw is huge. It's explained in my previous post. So if the engine is seized or hydrolocked and the headlights have no reaction on crank then FL12 must be blown. Investigation is needed cos it can be electrical fault, it can lead to engine stalling as well
As you say, we still don't know the one basic fact that can lead us to help OP further!
