Wow not cheap then, that's my best hope to see if a local mechanic has one... would other diagnostic tools work?

A mechanic may not have one that can be plugged iin and used to record the data while it is driving, which is the best thing. I do not know if other diagnostic record live data for reviewing later. I only have the nanocom.

Cheers
 
A mechanic may not have one that can be plugged iin and used to record the data while it is driving, which is the best thing. I do not know if other diagnostic record live data for reviewing later. I only have the nanocom.

Cheers
Ok, thankyou for your help, a nanocom is my best option as I've checked every area I can relate to and can't find anything
 
Ok, thankyou for your help, a nanocom is my best option as I've checked every area I can relate to and can't find anything

But even then , a nanocom may not show the issue. Have you checked the fuel delivery?

Cheers
 
A few things to look at:

Injector washers and seals is always a good place to start, but use genuine parts.

Have you changed the fuel filter?

Can you check the fuel pressure at the FPR?

Cheers
 
A few things to look at:

Injector washers and seals is always a good place to start, but use genuine parts.

Have you changed the fuel filter?

Can you check the fuel pressure at the FPR?

Cheers
I had ordered the injector washers and o rings and was adviced not to do it but a Land Rover garage as he said they're ok? Also the fuel filter I haven't changed so will deffo get that done? Is that difficult to change myself? And where is the FPR located?
 
I had ordered the injector washers and o rings and was adviced not to do it but a Land Rover garage as he said they're ok? Also the fuel filter I haven't changed so will deffo get that done? Is that difficult to change myself? And where is the FPR located?
How would I check the fuel pressure?
 
Have you tried the fuel purge procedure?

Injector washers and seals , I changed the other week on mine. Now it starts on the button.

I also had to change the fuel filter housing as the old one basically fell apart. Which meant I also got to change the air bleed valve and the non return valve in them as they are included.

Fuel filter is behind the offside rear wheel. Quite easy to see.

FPR is on the rear offside of the engine and is a PITA to get to on the D2. Although you can screw a fuel pressure gauge into where the fuel temp sensor goes to check the pressure easy enough.

Cheers
 
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Have you tried the fuel purge procedure?

Injector washers and seals , I changed the other week on mine. Now it starts on the button.

I also had to change the fuel filter housing as the old one basically fell apart. Which meant I also got to change the air bleed valve and the non return valve in them as they are included.

Fuel filter is behind the offside rear wheel. Quite easy to see.

FPR is on the rear offside of the engine and is a PITA to get to on the D2. Although you can screw a fuel pressure gauge into where the fuel temp sensor goes to check the pressure easy enough.

Cheers
ok I'll probably do the injectors first, I'm worried I'll get it wrong and then it cost a lot of money to sort, that's why I never tried to do them before
 
They said that they shouldn't need doing and they'll be on, last time they was done was 2012 brand new injectors cost around £1500

Injector seals are funny ones and you never really know until you take them out. However, this doesn't sound like your performance issue.

Can you describe this noise a bit more?
 
How did you check the MAP sensor? Also, have you checked the injector codes are correct?

Just noticed that this is an auto too, I'm not too great with auto's having never owned one, but as I understand, the auto-box can cause various running issues too
 
Injector seals are funny ones and you never really know until you take them out. However, this doesn't sound like your performance issue.

Can you describe this noise a bit more?
Basically when I put my foot down to the floor it sounds like there is no power going to the turbo at all and air is being lost... basically a large humming, rumbling noise when flooring the pedal
 
How did you check the MAP sensor? Also, have you checked the injector codes are correct?

Just noticed that this is an auto too, I'm not too great with auto's having never owned one, but as I understand, the auto-box can cause various running issues too
I checked it with the meter getting the voltage for each pin engine off and ignition on... and today I have changed the transmission filter and oil?.
 
Basically when I put my foot down to the floor it sounds like there is no power going to the turbo at all and air is being lost... basically a large humming, rumbling noise when flooring the pedal

Have you checked the intercooler? Thry often balloon from overpressure and leak like mad.

Also, I don't think this is the issue, but its easy to check. Have you checked the turbo spindle too?
 
Have you checked the intercooler? Thry often balloon from overpressure and leak like mad.

Also, I don't think this is the issue, but its easy to check. Have you checked the turbo spindle too?
The intercooler looos ok no signs of ballooning etc, also the turbo spindle has a slight bit of play in the bearing but nothing to stop turbo from working, it's like the air pressure is eascaping else where before getting to the turbo
 
That would be suction noise not air loss. Check the hose connection on the maf sensor. Also have you actually checked the air box and the filter? You may have something blocking the inlet. You could drive it a little without the maf attached to the air box to see if this improve it.

Just remember you'll have no filtration etc, but it should be fine to give it a test, just don't do it in the wet or a really dusty day. Mild dampness is ideal.
 

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