Okay....after doing the work last week and putting another 200 miles on it, I decided to check the oil level and it is on the rise again so, I feel now that I have to do an injector port crack test. Can anybody tell me what type of dye I need and how much....and do I just add it straight into the fuel tank?

Thank you again for any help.
 
Did you try checking to see if there was a crack around injector 1 when you had the cover off?

Cheers
 
Did you try checking to see if there was a crack around injector 1 when you had the cover off?

Cheers
I made a visual inspection on all injector ports but couldn't see anything obvious. I also ran the pump while I had the cover off and the rocker shaft removed to watch for bubbling or spluttering and to try and listen for any gurgling sounds but I could only hear the air purging wherever it purges to....
 
I have the same problem td5 53 plate , I’ve had the washers and o rings changed at the garage , but it’s still rising , genuine parts , I was thinking of putting some uv dye in the fuel filter , and running it for a few minutes , then rocker cover off and torch, and should show, ??? What do you guys think ? Also if it is a head issue there is a bloke on eBay who welds the head, is this fix any good ?
 
I did have some pics of my cracked head and its replacement, but Photobucket doesn't work anymore, so the pics are gone from the thread.!
My crack was very difficult to see, it was on No1 injector pocket, almost impossible to see, it could be just about be felt with a finger nail.
Ideally you need to do a Dye pen (penetration) test on each pocket.
It is possible to see a leak, you need to remove the rocker cover, turn on the ignition, clean any oil away from the outside of the pockets, use a good torch and be patient!
My crack showed as a weep from the side of the pocket.

Yes Paul the guy on Ebay did weld my original head but it was a bad crack and he didn't think kit would last.
It did last around 2000 miles then went again.
I then fitted a new AMC head, massively better quality than the LR head, pockets twice as thick, but its not cheap!
 
Yes Tom mine was cracked on injector 1 , I’ve just got my truck back today from the garage , as advised above by markomate2 I went for the amc upgrade , fingers crossed ,
 
I’m in a similar boat, although before it was just a bit rough starting then was fine - no rise in oil level or anything, since changing the washers and o rings it seems totally f****d
 
My Td5 ran and started fine and pulled like a train , only problem was it leaked fuel into the sump, getting them tested doesn’t always show the crack / they may find fault , but they never crack in the gallery’s it’s always in the injector port due to incorrect injector adjusting , it is possible to see it with the naked eye and a magnifying glass looking from the exhaust/ turbo side at the injector ports , the crack would be at at the top going down approx 25mm at 1oclock , they always crack there for some reason, injector 1 most common they also crack in port 2 and 3 and port 4 is rare and ,injector port 5 never , it might also be possible to feel with your finger nail ?
If you can’t see it get some penetration dye or uv dye off eBay , but if it’s cracked the fuel would be rising ? Bad starting is usually the copper washers and make sure the seat is clean as a whistle hope you get to the bottom of it Tom , what year is your Td5 ?
 
It’s a 2000, about 90k miles on it. The only place I can think fuel is leaking into the bores is via a crack
 
It might be worth doing the seals and washers again ? If it’s worse since then , but yes it’s
seals and washers or cracked head , yours is a early type with 2 internal fuel gallery’s and plastic locating dowels , all got changed later type , keep your eye out on eBay , I saw a amc 10p head on eBay for £500 and it didn’t even sell , shame I needed a 15p
 
It might be worth doing the seals and washers again ? If it’s worse since then , but yes it’s
seals and washers or cracked head , yours is a early type with 2 internal fuel gallery’s and plastic locating dowels , all got changed later type , keep your eye out on eBay , I saw a amc 10p head on eBay for £500 and it didn’t even sell , shame I needed a 15p

£500 is quite cheap maybe that’s why it didn’t sell. Yes these early engines are prone to cracks, I’ve read as early as 50k miles and as new as 3 years, so it hasn’t done badly. I’ll try the seals again - the o rings I could see have sealed ok but the new copper washers did not look compressed when I took them back out. I’m told there is no way for fuel to enter the bores this way but looking at diagrams I don’t see how it can’t be possible
 

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