rory McMeeken
Member
Have a 2001 defender has a cracked head and am getting fuel in oil have done injector seals truck has done 270,000km is there anything else I should do on the motor while the head is off
markomate2
Well-Known Member
Hi Just the obvious stuff, gasket, head bolts etc, and an oil and filter change.
I didnt change anything else when I replaced my head.
Are you fitting a new (AMC) one or getting yours repaired?
I do have thread about it on here, its sans pics at the moment until I reload everything after Photobucket dumped me!
I didnt change anything else when I replaced my head.
Are you fitting a new (AMC) one or getting yours repaired?
I do have thread about it on here, its sans pics at the moment until I reload everything after Photobucket dumped me!
Dickeylefrog
Active Member
Just put an AMC on my lump. Generally they are excellent got lots of good feedback from others and mechanic says he has had no problems with them but if you are using one, torque the bolts into it less newtons than the service book says just in case. I torqued up my fuel pressure unit to the recommended torque and stripped the thread on one bolt big pain to get it helicoiled in situ as Im not taking the engine back out again.
Dickeylefrog
Active Member
While youve got the head off flush all ofthe coking and **** out of the inlet plennum, should make quite a difference in better airflow as yours at 270k should be like mine at 330k full of gunk which took four flushes with degreasant
rory McMeeken
Member
Will be fitting a new head machanic said the new head was made in Spain
Dickeylefrog
Active Member
Yeah thats an AMC head. AMC make a better head than landrover as they have sorted out the issues of cracking around the injector ports. Like I said watch you dont over torque the nuts as I stripped one bolt hole on my new head even though I used factory torque settings
markomate2
Well-Known Member
Yes the AMC head is way better than the JLR one.
The AMC head also has a slightly different torquing up sequence, six steps if I remember right.
Oh and hopefully its not too late to say, keep your hydraulic lash adjusters (tappets) upright at all times!
If the oil drains out of them, there is are good chance you will get a tapping one, not a big issue, but annoying!
Also make sure the metal gauze filter behind the FPR is clean.
Agree about torque settings, chatted with Frida at Turners, she said the official manual has errors with torque settings.
I did follow all the settings as per the book, but you need around three sizes of torque wrench to cover the settings, dont try
using low settings on a large wrench.
The AMC head also has a slightly different torquing up sequence, six steps if I remember right.
Oh and hopefully its not too late to say, keep your hydraulic lash adjusters (tappets) upright at all times!
If the oil drains out of them, there is are good chance you will get a tapping one, not a big issue, but annoying!
Also make sure the metal gauze filter behind the FPR is clean.
Agree about torque settings, chatted with Frida at Turners, she said the official manual has errors with torque settings.
I did follow all the settings as per the book, but you need around three sizes of torque wrench to cover the settings, dont try
using low settings on a large wrench.
eightinavee
Well-Known Member
For anyone doing this job,checking piston protusions is a must.
rory McMeeken
Member
Think the td5 defenders that come to new Zealand don't have the egr unit attached but will be checking the air intake while it's off .
