Anyone who blanks a TD5 removes that butterfly valve so its safe to say that is the case...

I've a Nanocom but in South London, not much use! Though @huffhuff said he had a spare MAP sensor he could send you to test?

I wonder if it has been poorly mapped in the past! Depending on where and how it is leaking boost it could happen at any point, mine would occasionally hit flat spots in 1st/2nd at low revs. Have you found any oil traces around the intercooler or boost pipe work?
 
bankz5152 said:
Anyone who blanks a TD5 removes that butterfly valve so its safe to say that is the case...

I've a Nanocom but in South London, not much use! Though @huffhuff said he had a spare MAP sensor he could send you to test?

I wonder if it has been poorly mapped in the past! Depending on where and how it is leaking boost it could happen at any point, mine would occasionally hit flat spots in 1st/2nd at low revs. Have you found any oil traces around the intercooler or boost pipe work?
Click to expand...

hi banks
not many people are educated in this area regardless of the vehicle they own... there is no mention of a full delete just says its blanked off in the first post
I have seen people add in ball bearings to vacuum lines thinking this is a egr blank ... just saying
I have also met diesel drivers thinking this is a throttle plate specially on on jackaroos as they have a steppor motor basically an electronic version over a vac version
if this was a boost leak then why is he making power down low
those who have a boost gauge installed should note that full boost doesn't exactly mean high RPM

Hi all,
My 1999 td5 defender 90 is lacking in power at higher rpms in each gear. If i put my foot down in any gear, the turbo kicks in and it pulls lovely, then the power just dies after about 4seconds of boost. I change gear and it comes alive again then dies. This happens in each gear.
The car has a straight through exhaust (it has run fine with this before), egr has been blanked off and I've unplugged the maf to see if it is faulty. However none seem to have solved the problem.
Any ideas what could be the problem?
As is I said it pulls well until mid/higher rpm power just goes.

Thanks for help
Rufio
 
I know what youre getting at, though there is no EGR blanking kit I know of that does not replace the butterfly valve! Which is why I said it :)
 
bankz5152 said:
Strange, then you've only really blanked off a bit of it not the whole thing.
Click to expand...
nope the whole thing why only do things in short measures ..how ever it doesn't explain while deleting how to remove the electric solenoids but they do supply some plugs to blank the vac lines also it doesn't explain how the egr cooler can be removed


but every thing in the kit supplied can be a full delete .
 
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I think weve gotten crossed somewhere.... I was saying as far as I know there is no TD5 EGR blanking kit that does not include a new pipe to replace the butterfly valve.

Most EGR blanking kits bought in the UK at least come with full instructions (bought from 4 different companies myself, all came with full instructions) The only thing they don't include, as you said, is how to blank of the EGR cooler. Though 5 minutes on LZ or D2 and you can find that information. That said some come with one blanking plate (you have to remove the EGR cooler) and some come with 3 (you don't have to remove the cooler).

Though if the OP could answer the question of if the vac lines where correctly reconnected and blanked off where required?
 
bankz5152 said:
I think weve gotten crossed somewhere.... I was saying as far as I know there is no TD5 EGR blanking kit that does not include a new pipe to replace the butterfly valve.

Most EGR blanking kits bought in the UK at least come with full instructions (bought from 4 different companies myself, all came with full instructions) The only thing they don't include, as you said, is how to blank of the EGR cooler. Though 5 minutes on LZ or D2 and you can find that information. That said some come with one blanking plate (you have to remove the EGR cooler) and some come with 3 (you don't have to remove the cooler).

Though if the OP could answer the question of if the vac lines where correctly reconnected and blanked off where required?
Click to expand...

unless somebody made there own blanking plate
individual blanking plates can also be purchased so i now understand how we got crossed somewhere
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EGR-Blan...669619?hash=item4d285d10f3:g:jyUAAOSwQJhUbrpQ
 
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Yeah that's my next step. Will be booking into the experts.
I just find it fun trying to work out issues myself. But diagnostics in this instance is definitely my next step.
 
You should have spent on a new wastegate modulator rather than a MAP cos for your symptom that was the first suspect... i said it in post #9
 
sierrafery said:
Read post #9, i said "if fitted" as the OP doesnt have it's location, UK/EU Defenders should have the modulator, eventually the very early modells dont have it, African (and maybe some other) exporst dont have it.
Click to expand...
Sorry to contradict you here but my 2001 90 TD5 doesn't have any modulator only the pressure actuator and mine was bought in Ripon. I am pretty sure that i have read that the Discover uses it but the Defender does not.
 
I edited my post while you replied, see the link in it... just helped a friend last week with a defender with a similar symptom and the modulator was at fault... i can't understand what's going on then or when was it introduced but definitely there are modells with it fitted... the OP should have said it doesnt have it cos then the valve can be at fault as well
 
Ive had 02 and 04 TD5s, plus seen many friends and according to the workshop manual no Defenders have a modulator fitted. They where only fitted to Discos, but they can be fitted to Defs afaik but not from factory even ROW.
 
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