Passenger door replacement ordered, setting up spray room think i need to tidy up a bit first.....:vb-drink:
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Hi mate! Brilliant thread, I have literally just bought the gwyn Lewis shock turrets, and bottom clamps and spring seats etc, and have been wringing my hands as to what shocks to get, having seen your ome set up, and as Gwyn is virtually next door to me, I think I'll give him another visit!
One question, I've never heard of the d1 drop arm mod before, would you mind giving a quick explanation as my drop arm ball joint has slight play in it again so will have to tackle it sooner or later, many thanks and again, cracking thread and work! 😊
 
Hi mate! Brilliant thread, I have literally just bought the gwyn Lewis shock turrets, and bottom clamps and spring seats etc, and have been wringing my hands as to what shocks to get, having seen your ome set up, and as Gwyn is virtually next door to me, I think I'll give him another visit!
One question, I've never heard of the d1 drop arm mod before, would you mind giving a quick explanation as my drop arm ball joint has slight play in it again so will have to tackle it sooner or later, many thanks and again, cracking thread and work! 😊
Do the drop arm…. It’s so nice not struggling to change a TRE than refurb the old style.
Put some sumo bars on as well. Less hassle in the long term. And this allows for the RTC damper to be fitted
 
Ok guys @KISSMYAURA @Hicap phill

I replaced the ball joint in the drop arm a few years ago (that means probably 4 ;)) but the boot has already split. Waiting for a certain scotsman to give a review on some new Poly boots hes got.

I think its cos of the small lift which increases the angle, (maybe it was just crap rubber boot).
But that conversion looks to me as if it would increase the angle of the ball joint at both end to start with and so restrict some movement wear more?

Or am I missing something?

J

Edit. I have just drawn an imaginary line through bits and it looks like the same geometry :oops: .
 
You will be forever trying to get a boot to fit on the drop arm, its just a bad design, the drop arm has insufficient lip to hold a boot on throught the required articulation, the ball and cup joint is not the best design either, and it is non greaseable.

With conversion angles increase very slightly, but thats what a ball joint / TRE is designed for etc.
PS I will only use LEMFORDER, best of the best IMO
 
You will be forever trying to get a boot to fit on the drop arm, its just a bad design, the drop arm has insufficient lip to hold a boot on throught the required articulation, the ball and cup joint is not the best design either, and it is non greaseable.

With conversion angles increase very slightly, but thats what a ball joint / TRE is designed for etc.
PS I will only use LEMFORDER, best of the best IMO

Thanks.

I have a new drop arm spare, ordered it incase I had issues replacing just the ball joint. It wasn't easy but not bad.
I intend to take it apart and install a grease nipple in the bottom plate ;).
Its not a grease problem (well it is now its split:oops:)

The point is the angles and the rubber splitting (far sooner than expected) So was thinking to replace a better rubber next time with the ploy 1. Guess I will get there before he does.
Guess I just had a ****epart.

Oh and if you had a bigger garage it wouldn't look so cluttered....... for long🤔.

J
 
Thanks.

I have a new drop arm spare, ordered it incase I had issues replacing just the ball joint. It wasn't easy but not bad.
I intend to take it apart and install a grease nipple in the bottom plate ;).
Its not a grease problem (well it is now its split:oops:)

The point is the angles and the rubber splitting (far sooner than expected) So was thinking to replace a better rubber next time with the ploy 1. Guess I will get there before he does.
Guess I just had a ****epart.

Oh and if you had a bigger garage it wouldn't look so cluttered....... for long🤔.

J
do the glyn Lewis TRE covers fit the old style drop arm.
I found the plastic too stiff & forever replacing then on the old style arms

Geometry it’s the same angles and as there is more movement in the TRE all feels better.
 
Props greased today, winter prep now complete.
Replaced exhaust hangers with powerflex silicone HD was a doddle with me new tool cant believe i not got one sooner.
No more cutting the old one off and then getting soaked in washing up liquid bashing my knuckles and muchos swearing....
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Gearbox / Transfer fluid change, thats it shes ready for winter!

R380 MTF94 (with ATP Lubeguard yellow)
LT230 EP90

I need guttering its so hot today!

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NS Door time for a replacement.
Did the drivers door a couple fo years ago,
I can't be faffed with just fixing the bottom steel bar. I know its not hard to do and the door skin is dent free and apart from the bottom rail is mint.

However as this truck is a true triggers broom, it will have a nice new door!
I will will stick the old one up for sale, on here first. Drivers door sold in 40 mins!


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Been using Millers for the last 20 years or so in all our diesels superb stuff, 190K, 130K and 180K three vehicles serviced regularly and not a single hiccup. I use it at double dose.
Also given the Biocide / diesel bug treatment every 3 months.

I also use JLM for all the pretrol / two stroke stuff / generators the E10 is total garbage and full of methanol.

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FFS R380 gearbox drain plug leaking, so had to dump the oil and fit a new copper washer.
I noticed the ones in my stock tray are not only thicker, but thicker in o/d-i/d as well.

I must have just grabbed the last thinner one, only did this a few weeks ago, (expect it came with a filler plug) must have been a bearbagosheitemach or terrarustafimative one, so under we go again.

Shame to waste the MTF94 but got no clean way of re-using. (AKA cant be arsed to faff around finding a clean receptical)

All topped up and back down off the see-saw ramps.
 
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