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markt1891

New Member
Has anyone replaced the upper RH engine mount on their TD4?

I haven't started the job yet but I don't think there is enough clearance to remove the bolt that goes through the tie-bar. It looks like it will hit the engine before it clears the tie-bar so I am not sure how it comes out.

If anyone has already done this I would appreciate any advice.

Thanks.

Mark.
 
Dragging up an old thread I know... but I have the same problem in that there has not enough clearance to get the bolt out from the bush in the upper tie bar.

My question is, if I follow the advice and remove the bolt from the LH upper tie bar also, so the engine can be moved over a little to get the bolt out, do I need to take extra precaution to support the engine from below with a trolley jack?

The only other way I can see to remove the upper tie bar bush mount is to remove the two bolts holding the plate to the body near to where the belts are currently in the engine, so the whole thing can be angled to allow removal.

Any thoughts on the need for additional support with both upper tie bars removed would be appreciated.

Many thanks.

Jim.
 
Do you mean the right-hand upper engine mount (hydramount), as defined by you sitting in the driver's seat? In this case it's fairly easy:
1. Undertray off
2. Take weight of engine with jack and wooden block
3. Remove nut from round part and bolt from the pivot.
4. It's even easier if you remove the ally bracket from the engine too.
 
Thanks.

It's not the hydromount I need to change, it's the bush/arm that's about 6" long, between the hydromount and cabin. - it looks very similar to the lower tie bar.

The problem with it is the bolt that goes through the bush is horizontal, and there is not enough space to remove it. Even when the other end of the tie bar is undone, to allow some wiggle.

As the original poster said, they solved the problem by removing the LH mount too, which allowed the engine to be moved over enough. I'll probably have to ease of the hydromount as suggested.

I think will support the engine weight, and try this approach.

Thanks again.
 
Taking the advice about the big ally bracket that connects to the hydromount, I undid all four bolts to give the engine more leverage. This allowed me to jack the engine up the extra 10mm or so to allow enough room to remove the bolt from the bush in the tie bar.

Job done. And the nasty vibration at 1250 revs under load has gone. ;-).

Thanks
 
4Bee4Bee said:
Taking the advice about the big ally bracket that connects to the hydromount, I undid all four bolts to give the engine more leverage. This allowed me to jack the engine up the extra 10mm or so to allow enough room to remove the bolt from the bush in the tie bar.

Job done. And the nasty vibration at 1250 revs under load has gone. ;-).

Thanks
Click to expand...
I went out to the parts car and had a look - I see what you mean now. I didn't even notice there was another bushed thing behind the hydramount.

Useful info for anyone else, anyway.
 
The bar in question is the upper tie bar. The lower tie bar is under the most stress. However the upper bar gives rise to the most vibration. This is due the the upper bar being bolted to the body. Whereas the lower bar is bolted the sub frame. The sub frame's stiffness transfers less vibration to the body. Sometimes there's no need to replace the upper tie bar. Vibration can often be cured by simply repositioning the mounting bolts.
Over time the hydro mount compresses slightly. This altars the the load on the tie bars, giving rise to unwanted vibration. Repositioning the tie bar in its slotted mounting hole, often cures these unwanted vibrations.

Resetting tie bars is simple.
Make sure the car is on level ground and in N, as no load is wanted on the power unit.
Then release both upper and lower tie bar bolts. Don't remove them, just release them. Then grab the top of the engine and give it a good rocking, front to back. The engine will settle in a central and neutral point. Then bolt up all the tie bar bolts, a bit at a time. You don't want to move the engine while doing so. Once all bolts have gripped, tighten them fully.
The engine will now be set a neutral position, and vibration will be minimised.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the tip about loosening both tie bar bolts to let the engine find its new resting position. - I will give that a try, which may cure that last 5% hint of vibration I can still hear.

I agree that for anyone contemplating this job, just loosening the bolts and repositioning may solve much of the problem. And save you having to spend £50 on a new tie bar. - when I first attempted to get to upper tie bar bolt out, and failed, I did it back up. This did reduce the vibration to about 50% of what it was previously.

Thanks again.
 
How do I remove the Hydro mount from the td4, is the lower threaded bolt threaded into the car body (inner wing), or is there a nut underneath? How do I access the nut?
 
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