longdog · Feb 12, 2016

4x4Dog said:
I'll have to check what Alldata says about this job ... Land Rover's TOPIx wants you to remove most of the crap off the top of the engine, which seems horribly OTT. I doubt the flat-rate techs do it that way.

Just do as described in this thread, but undo the water pump bolts instead of the 'stat torx bolts. 24mm combination spanner for the belt tensioner.
You're supposed to remove loads of bits so you can get behind the engine to remove the bolts holding the coolant rail to the block, so you don't strain or crack it.
I just found it easier to remove/refit the whole assembly when I did a water pump than when I did just a thermostat.

Mike81 · Feb 15, 2016

Hi i have just bought a 2004 td4 and the temp only goes upto about 1/4 i beleave its a stuck stat (open) i have spoke to a local landrover specialist and they will put a new one in for £200. Does this sound about right price for having it done. Thanks mike.

tonyt37 · Feb 15, 2016

Save your money and fit a Renault 5 stat in the top hose for less than a tenner.

dog-man · Feb 15, 2016

I wish my lazy stat would fail totally before I get round to replacing the stat on my 06 TD4 so I can do the Renault 5 stat mod.

Arctic2 · Feb 16, 2016

dog-man said:
I wish my lazy stat would fail totally before I get round to replacing the stat on my 06 TD4 so I can do the Renault 5 stat mod.

You do not have to wait until the stat fails completely as it may never do, the TD4 stat doe's not fail as such but opens to early, and this can get worse as time moves on, ie opening at80-84 at first then onto 68-71 thus the engine never get up to temp, I have just fitted a gates inline top hose stat which I prefer to the R5 stat as some of the either have a jiggle pin, or leak coolant past anyway.

My Freelander now get up to temp 12.00 on the dial within five minutes and 4 mile drive at 30 MPH I recently did a tick over test from cold on my drive with the Hawkeye hooked up for live data and it reads as below

Started engine at 17.18pm
hooked up the Hawkeye at.
17.20pm reading 33.8c
17.25pm = 68.8c and 11.00-oclock on the dial.
17.30pm = 71.4c and 11.55-oclock on the dial
17.33pm = 74.5c and 11.59-oclock on the dial
17.41pm = 81.2c and 12.00-oclock on the dial
from then dail always at 12.00-oclock on the dial
17.44pm = 86.7c
17.45pm = 88.1c
17.47pm = 88.9c top hose with stat fully hot and stat open

The above was carried out from a cold start outside temp was 7c
I will when I have time do a full how to including fitting the inline top hose

dog-man · Feb 16, 2016

If my lazy stat does eventually close fully, won't it cause a problem if there is another stat working away?
Currently my temp will sit at about 5 to 12 but takes about 7 miles to get there. It will only go to 12 o clock if the outside temp is above about 8c or I am travelling at high speed for long periods.
I have recently flushed and changed the coolant as it was taking about 15 - 17 miles to get decent heat.
I have not done any long journeys since doing this, but does seem better than it was.

dog-man · Feb 16, 2016

Arctic2 said:
You do not have to wait until the stat fails completely as it may never do, the TD4 stat doe's not fail as such but opens to early, and this can get worse as time moves on, ie opening at80-84 at first then onto 68-71 thus the engine never get up to temp, I have just fitted a gates inline top hose stat which I prefer to the R5 stat as some of the either have a jiggle pin, or leak coolant past anyway.

My Freelander now get up to temp 12.00 on the dial within five minutes and 4 mile drive at 30 MPH I recently did a tick over test from cold on my drive with the Hawkeye hooked up for live data and it reads as below

Started engine at 17.18pm
hooked up the Hawkeye at.
17.20pm reading 33.8c
17.25pm = 68.8c and 11.00-oclock on the dial.
17.30pm = 71.4c and 11.55-oclock on the dial
17.33pm = 74.5c and 11.59-oclock on the dial
17.41pm = 81.2c and 12.00-oclock on the dial
from then dail always at 12.00-oclock on the dial
17.44pm = 86.7c
17.45pm = 88.1c
17.47pm = 88.9c top hose with stat fully hot and stat open

The above was carried out from a cold start outside temp was 7c
I will when I have time do a full how to including fitting the inline top hose

I look forward to the 'How to'.

Arctic2 · Feb 17, 2016

dog-man said:
If my lazy stat does eventually close fully, won't it cause a problem if there is another stat working away?
Currently my temp will sit at about 5 to 12 but takes about 7 miles to get there. It will only go to 12 o clock if the outside temp is above about 8c or I am travelling at high speed for long periods.
I have recently flushed and changed the coolant as it was taking about 15 - 17 miles to get decent heat.
I have not done any long journeys since doing this, but does seem better than it was.

Yours is working just how mine was until the recent inline gates stat, I have yet to hear of a TD4 R40 M47 diesel stat closing full and staying like that, as they fail by opening to early to completely open.

dog-man · Feb 17, 2016

I await your 'how 'to' on the inline gates stat then.

tyrefitter · Feb 17, 2016

me too, it should be really interesting as mine only goes up to about the 10 to position so will be having a look soon .

dog-man · Feb 17, 2016

This method will save me about 5 hours work on a cold floor.

Lowbank · Feb 17, 2016

stat arrived, will be fitting tomorrow.

Mew · Apr 3, 2016

Hi all, I'm new to this forum, but thought I would add my two penneth to the thermostat debate.
I have a 2004 face lift TD4 and it has suffered with poor running, blue smoke on start up which I now class as a feature not a fault and low engine temperature.
I connected a OBD dongle to the beast and checked all the normal things that may be wrong. All the readings seemed to be reasonable except for the engine coolant temperature which would not go over 60 deg. The engine seemed to run fine when cold but once warm developed a misfire.
I added an inline stat in the top hose and took it for a run.
Temperature got to 88 deg monitoring the OBD but then rose to 105 deg, slightly worried I stopped and checked the coolant level, that was normal and no leaks. The cooling fans were running by this time. After a while it settles down to about 90 deg but will rise to 104 ish occasionally.
It's now been through 3 overnight cooling cycles but still does the same thing. I wonder if I have an air lock? Is there a way to bleed the system that anyone knows, or is this temperature cycle normal? During all this time the temperature gauge rises to mid way and stays there. The misfire I had has almost disappeared as well.

redwood · Apr 3, 2016

Glad your misfire has almost gone, probably the temp is higher because the water has to negotiate two obstacles.

Arctic2 · Apr 4, 2016

Hi Mew.
You can use the bleed screw at the rear left of the engine bay, on the right as you stand in front of the car ie passenger side, start the engine from cold let it tick over and slowly come up to temp once the engine as reached about 40c take the coolant tank cap off for a short while maybe 1-2 minutes refit it then use the bleed screw to see if any air is in the system, photo's below let the water run out slowly with out taking the bleed screw completely out of the pipe, hope this helps repeat if need be always keeping an eye on the coolant tank level.

pscan.eu · May 16, 2016

SWMBOs 2002 TD4 is leaking from the thermostat housing area, and I am pretty sure that it is where the metal pipe that goes across the back of the engine goes into the thermostat.
I already bought a replacement O ring and had an initial look at this over the weekend, but I came to the conclusion that I would have to get the injectors out to get the cam cover / air filter box off so that I can get to the nuts / screws that hold that coolant pipe to the back of the engine.
This thread would appear to suggest that I can get to the last one through the whole in the inner wing (for the driver side track rod end).
Is this really so?
and will it allow me to pull the pipe back enough to fit a new O ring on without moving the thermostat housing?

The car warms up ok, I just need to fix that leak.

Gogadget · May 16, 2016

I found it also slightly easier to also take the L shaped turbo hose off from the rear of the engine to get access to the next bolt on the pipe , this gave me more movement to get the flange of the pipe out of the thermostat housing

french kev · Oct 22, 2016

Creeeg said:
Like several others here and on the MG forums (those that have Td4s in their vehicles), I've been suffering a lazy thermostat recently. This was really brought to light this week when the temperature dropped and I had virtually no hot air, and the temperature gauge hardly got up to 1/4.

Daunted by the tales of taking the belts off, crankshaft pulley off, water pump off, bending the metal coolant rail that bolts into the thermostat housing, etc, but, knowing I had to do this job, this is what I found when I did the swap this afternoon: it can be done without removing ANY of the belts, pulleys, water pump, etc!

Firstly, get your thermostat/housing from Island 4x4. £35 delivered, which was about the best price I could find. Tis a genuine replacement too.

In addition to your normal tool kit, arm yourself with a set of Torx ratchet spanners (you actually only need an E8). A 1/4" drive E8 Torx socket is very handy too.

Jack the front up and remove the following: engine undertray, acoustic top cover, air filter cover, turbo hose that clips onto the MAF sensor housing, driver's side wheel and side splash shield.

Drain the coolant by removing the rubber hose from the solid metal pipe under/in front of the engine. Next, remove this metal pipe completely - 3 x 8mm bolts and a hose clip where it connects to the rubber elbow hose that goes into the thermostat housing.

Place a trolley jack under the engine and then undo the 15mm bolt and the 18mm nut on the O/S engine mount (the two you can easily get to by the ABS block). You can now raise the engine up and lower it down as you need to.

Working above and through the steering rack hole you should now be able to tweak the four Torx bolts out using a combination of the E8 ratchet spanner and the E8 socket. It takes a while, but the ratchet spanner is well worth the investment here. Also remove the 10mm bolt holding the metal coolant rail into the thermostat housing.

Once it's all undone, you should be able to pull the thermostat forwards a bit. It probably will get stuck on the engine mount and coolant rail, but if you raise the engine up as much as you can on the jack you will just get enough clearance to a) move the coolant rail back a bit, and b) pull the thermostat clear of the water pump. It'll ultimately only go one way: down. It can then be pulled out through the steering rack hole though.

I'd left the rubber hose on it at this point. So I swapped that over and reversed the procedure to get the new unit back in position. Once I'd juggled the engine height about a few times I got all four Torx bolts back in plus the coolant rail bolt. Then I did the engine mounting bolts, then the plumbing and the turbo pipe.

Sadly that's where I ran out of daylight. So I have about an hour's worth of work in the morning to fill the coolant up, and put the other bits back on, but, barring any leaks it'll hopefully be OK. I'll update this post tomorrow.

I just wanted to share my experiences with this job so far (about 3hrs of work currently). I'm not playing this one down at all - it IS a pig of a job, but it CAN be done without removing too much other awkward stuff. Probably important to know if you're planning to do this at the weekend...

french kev · Oct 22, 2016

Hi Just followed creew's system and got thermostat off ,defiantly a b-----d of a job excuse my french ,anyway got new on but never came with o ring looked at old one looked ok but did not know how it fits on does it just push onto the pipe ,or does it go to the top over the little lump as when l tried to fit put it all back together it leaked as it had popped up and squashed hence leaked ,ordered one from u/k but they sent me the wrong one too big , so ordered from LR here in La Rochelle ,1,5 hour drive 9 euros lol,
and don't want it to go wrong ,any advice would be welcome as need on the road
thank's in advance ,
french kev;

Rocky Ward · Dec 6, 2016

Just fitted the £10 Gates thermostat to my 04 TD4, it took 45 minutes in total.

This included removing the air intake etc, cutting the stainless steel band off the top hose and fitting the thermostat into the hose.

I followed this guide.

http://www.75ztcommunity.co.uk/thermostat-replacement-t2877.html

What a doddle of a job, goodness knows why anyone would prefer to swap out the original one.

I went from cold air to quarter way on the gauge in about 5 minutes and half way in about 10 minutes, its not scorching hot but its a major result for £10 and certainly good enough to keep us warm and keep the windows clear.

I would recommend this fix to anyone.

Karl.

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