Arctic2
Well-Known Member
Hi Karl.
I do it with a triangle file now, not a dremel as i did in 2015 as you say takes about 30 to 45 minutes i have spares already made up for the R40 and one spare for the FL 1 nowadays,
I do it with a triangle file now, not a dremel as i did in 2015 as you say takes about 30 to 45 minutes i have spares already made up for the R40 and one spare for the FL 1 nowadays,
I've been watching all the debates in various forums about the inline stat mod - most seem to love it, but some argue (quite aggressively sometimes!) that it's a bodge. Really don't fancy 5+ hours changing the original stat if I don't have to, but wondered what the downside is to this mod? Can it damage the engine or cause further problems?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
No down sides, other than it's not a factory mod.
It's much less damaging to run the engine at the correct temperature, compared to running it cool with a failed stat.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Yes. It makes no difference as to the year of the TD4.
Did this mod the weekend, overall review very pleased.
The only real ball ache with the whole mod is, cutting off the band that holds the pipe to the plastic connector. Once that's done it's straight forward. I used some k jelly to lube it up and it slipped in.
I did take my inlet manifold off for better access, don't think it's essential to remove to.
Just remember to connect the reconnect the wire on the inlet manifold (if you remove it) I didn't do this and it was a right pain trying to find the issue with a missing unhappy hippo.
The only real ball ache with the whole mod is, cutting off the band that holds the pipe to the plastic connector. Once that's done it's straight forward. I used some k jelly to lube it up and it slipped in.
I did take my inlet manifold off for better access, don't think it's essential to remove to.
Just remember to connect the reconnect the wire on the inlet manifold (if you remove it) I didn't do this and it was a right pain trying to find the issue with a missing unhappy hippo.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
LOL, we've all been there.
From memory if you can get the hose disconnected you don't need to remove the manifold. I couldn't shift mine so took off the manifold and cut the metal band your referring to with an angle grinder. Dead easy but you need to be careful.
I just spent half of the weekend changing the stat on SWMBOs TD4, not because of any temperature problems but because it was leaking coolant. I was pretty difficult and I made a mistake with one tool so I thought I would post some pics and tips.
This was the reason for the leak:-
the seal was pinched, I think as a result of a stat change by a previous owner.
A previous poster suggested undoing the last bolt on the tube and the pulling the tube back towards the brake master. I would say that this is essential. If you crawl underneath with your head past the antiroll bar you can easily see it here:-
I used a tool like this:-
and by sticking just the hex bit into the bolt I could then see it looking through the inner wing (hole for the track rod end):-
that's the hex end of the bit, then it was simple to push on the ratchet handle and undo it.
I used a luggage strap in a loop around the pipe and the brake master to pull it back.
The mistake I made was to think that I could do this job with an E8 ratchet spanner and an E8 3/8" socket, but you can't. You must have the E8 ratchet spanner, and the E8 socket must be a 1/4" inch drive like this:-
because a 3/8" socket is too big to fit here:-
and the ratchet spanner won't go in there either.
I jacked up the engine and removed the top engine mount, as suggested, and also ran a ratchet strap from the bottom engine mount over to a spoke in the nearside front wheel and then pulled the engine over a bit away from the right and side inner wing. I think it only moved a few mm but even that is a big help.
lastly I gave up trying to remove the hose from the thermostat, instead I unclipped the other end of the hose and pulled the stat out with the host still attached, moved the hose over to the new stat, and then put it back in with the hose already on:-
I doesn't seem to leak now
This was the reason for the leak:-
the seal was pinched, I think as a result of a stat change by a previous owner.
A previous poster suggested undoing the last bolt on the tube and the pulling the tube back towards the brake master. I would say that this is essential. If you crawl underneath with your head past the antiroll bar you can easily see it here:-
I used a tool like this:-
and by sticking just the hex bit into the bolt I could then see it looking through the inner wing (hole for the track rod end):-
that's the hex end of the bit, then it was simple to push on the ratchet handle and undo it.
I used a luggage strap in a loop around the pipe and the brake master to pull it back.
The mistake I made was to think that I could do this job with an E8 ratchet spanner and an E8 3/8" socket, but you can't. You must have the E8 ratchet spanner, and the E8 socket must be a 1/4" inch drive like this:-
because a 3/8" socket is too big to fit here:-
and the ratchet spanner won't go in there either.
I jacked up the engine and removed the top engine mount, as suggested, and also ran a ratchet strap from the bottom engine mount over to a spoke in the nearside front wheel and then pulled the engine over a bit away from the right and side inner wing. I think it only moved a few mm but even that is a big help.
lastly I gave up trying to remove the hose from the thermostat, instead I unclipped the other end of the hose and pulled the stat out with the host still attached, moved the hose over to the new stat, and then put it back in with the hose already on:-
I doesn't seem to leak now
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longdog
Active Member
A revised version of the thermostat is available from Discount MG Rover Spares, runs a bit hotter than standard,
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections...el-thermostat-kit-aftermarket-revised-version
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections...el-thermostat-kit-aftermarket-revised-version
Shaun4456
Active Member
Is it any Renault 5 thermostat???
Arctic2
Well-Known Member
Use a Gates thermostat they are more stable, also make sure you purchase one without a jiggle pin as this lets water through and can slow down the warming up time.
Below is photo's of the gates thermostat, TH01489
http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/coolant-thermostat/gates-th01489_g316_a033TH01489.html
Below is photo's of the gates thermostat, TH01489
http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/coolant-thermostat/gates-th01489_g316_a033TH01489.html
Attachments
Shaun4456
Active Member
Thanks for help. I have ordered part from link you sent. Thanks for help Shaun
Shaun4456
Active Member
Hi did you put jubilee on silver bit on stat to clamp to pipe or jubilee clip behind stat??? Thanks
Alibro
Well-Known Member
I didn't bother with a 2nd clip, I don't think it is likely to move.
Shaun4456
Active Member
Thanks again
Shaun
Madmustang
Well-Known Member
Whats that??
