Did my thermostat today on my TD4 sort of using this method. I would add this:
Essential kit: E8 ratchet spanner, E8 1/4" socket and various extension bars, plasters, swear box.
My Top Tips:
- Allow plenty of time, look at everything first and plan your approach, it's difficult to visualise it form the text.
- Remove completely the top engine mount, not essential but gives better access.
- Raise the engine as high as you dare, until the bottom pulley comes into contact with the inner wing in my case.
- Use a long, thick, strong cable tie to hold the metal coolant pipe back from the thermostat housing by looping it around the brake master cylinder and the pipe and using pliers to tighten it up and pull the pipe out of the housing. You need to remove the bolt from the first mounting on the pipe to the block - you can get at this from the hole in the inner wing that the track rod goes through - you need a hex drive socket and a long extension bar. Also use a cable tie to tie back the a/c hose at the top of the engine else it gets in the way.
- Remove the spring clip from the large rubber coolant hose that attaches to the bottom of the housing, replace it with a worm drive/jubilee clip - much easier to refit as you don't have to get pump pliers into a confined space at a weird angle! You can tighten in through the hole in the inner wing.
Strangely I found all the bolts difficult but not horrendous to get to, and refitting was easier than removal (probably because I'd worked out to tie back the coolant pipe).
If you get annoyed
with it - walk away for ten minutes.
Richard
Essential kit: E8 ratchet spanner, E8 1/4" socket and various extension bars, plasters, swear box.
My Top Tips:
- Allow plenty of time, look at everything first and plan your approach, it's difficult to visualise it form the text.
- Remove completely the top engine mount, not essential but gives better access.
- Raise the engine as high as you dare, until the bottom pulley comes into contact with the inner wing in my case.
- Use a long, thick, strong cable tie to hold the metal coolant pipe back from the thermostat housing by looping it around the brake master cylinder and the pipe and using pliers to tighten it up and pull the pipe out of the housing. You need to remove the bolt from the first mounting on the pipe to the block - you can get at this from the hole in the inner wing that the track rod goes through - you need a hex drive socket and a long extension bar. Also use a cable tie to tie back the a/c hose at the top of the engine else it gets in the way.
- Remove the spring clip from the large rubber coolant hose that attaches to the bottom of the housing, replace it with a worm drive/jubilee clip - much easier to refit as you don't have to get pump pliers into a confined space at a weird angle! You can tighten in through the hole in the inner wing.
Strangely I found all the bolts difficult but not horrendous to get to, and refitting was easier than removal (probably because I'd worked out to tie back the coolant pipe).
If you get annoyed
with it - walk away for ten minutes.
Richard
but the one I had in my R75 tourer is still going after 4 years the original thermostats always seem to fail open
