Reporting back - the guage has stopped moving, seems the 'stat has settled in or something? Holds halfway temp all the time even though it was -20 over the weekend here. Now if only i could persuade the fan to blow a little more -on setting 1 its like a baby breathing, on 4 it's like an asthmatic after a 4k run....can better fans be fitted?
 
do you mean the engin fan or the fan inside if the later is the case you may need a new resistor kit --Ebay
 
Air flow isn't ever what you could call brilliant so for best results make sure you have a new/clean pollen filter........
 
I meant the fan inside - all the blow levels (1,2,3,4) work fine, it just doesn't put out much air. The pollen filter is brand new.
 
DefUnct said:
I meant the fan inside - all the blow levels (1,2,3,4) work fine, it just doesn't put out much air. The pollen filter is brand new.
Click to expand...

There is some information on here about the internal heater fan, it as a problem occasionally, tis requires the resistors replacing (see the thread up there ^^).

If I remember the information correctly the resistors are in the internal fuse box in one of the foot wells....

I'll see if I can find the thread and link to it later tonight.
 
Thank's for that info Creeeg. I changed mine yesterday, in about 4 hours following your method. Although half an hour of that was removing & refitting the engine belly plate...

The engine's now running at the correct temp, and the heater works nicely. Now I hope it burns off the carbon which has built up in the rocker box breather ducts, due to running at too low a temp for so long. Although I doubt I'd be that lucky....:rolleyes:

Once again, thanks. It was much appreciated.
 
now you will have a better fuel consumption just a warning to anybody doing this jod be very carefull of the top of the cassing that the metal pipe fits into these can break and are costly mine did
 
There's some good photos on here of how to replace the thermostat with a Renault one....it explains all about half way down the page.
 
Yes thanks from NewZealand Greeed for the info on how to change the thermostat .... 6 hours later and done ...
Took to days to get the air lock out but got it in the end ended up going up and down Mountain rd a couple of times ..... I was starting to think that new thermostat was faulty .... ....temp is solid as a rock on half ..... And my freelander is starting and running great .... I have a temp sensor on its way as well as it talks to everything .... .....
 
Hi all ... Well replace thermostat and made no difference ... Tried renewing the antifreeze and making it more concentrated made no difference so blocked off radiator inlets .... First blocking all and great straight up to temp and stayed rock solid .... But can not have all blocked off so blocked off the two lower ones and left the top grill with badge open ..... and great ... 3/4 ks and up to temp and does come down about one eighth inch on gauge on motorways if cold but is is 90% better than with out ... I made up a clear plastic cover that domes on if go up the mountain in winter .... Should have tried this in the first place .... I remember we did this in the 60's on the old cars and trucks with news paper to get the up to temp ....I will make up some clear plastic to clip on's as they will stay on ... The economy is coming back starts better ....
I am a happy boy in my 2006 MK1 freelander Td4 it's done 134.000 ks what a great vehicle ....
 
I too replaced my thermostat yesterday according to the method at the beginning of this thread.

went quite well but 1 of the torx bolts is a real pain to get to

Have to check now if the engine running temperature is better
 
well chaps

just went for a run and then plugged in my OBD reader

engine temp gets upto 92 now as it should.........

hope to get better economy and a more responsive performance

digby
 
Hi guys. Most searches I do lead me back to this thread so here goes. ... I am thinking my thermostat may be stuck closed as my 2002 td4 freelander is overheating.
One pipe to the radiator is cold, the other boiling. The cold side also feels empty (maybe).
No water in the oil or vice versa.
If I drive with all heaters full on then u just get by without over heating on a cool day.
Fans come on Ok too.

Ideas or tests?

Cheers

Carl in New Zealand
 
Where is your temp gauge pointing? It should be in the centre more or less.

Tests..... Scangauge 2 is a good start. Plug into obd port. It can tell you the temp of the water. When I plugged mine in, it showed 69C.

I went down the proper route and had my thermostat replaced. Now it sits at around 89C.

On an older car you might go the Renault 5 Gates thermostat route in the top tube.
 
carlosjackal said:
Hi guys. Most searches I do lead me back to this thread so here goes. ... I am thinking my thermostat may be stuck closed as my 2002 td4 freelander is overheating.
One pipe to the radiator is cold, the other boiling. The cold side also feels empty (maybe).
No water in the oil or vice versa.
If I drive with all heaters full on then u just get by without over heating on a cool day.
Fans come on Ok too.

Ideas or tests?

Cheers

Carl in New Zealand
Click to expand...

Could be the pump I you're not getting flow through the rad
 
If you believe the thermostat has failed in the closed position fitting another thermostat In the top hose won't stop the overheating, looks like replacing the original stat (presuming the water pump is ok) will be your only option.
 
Hi, got the same symptoms. Temp gauge hardly moves and little or no heat out of the blowers. Is it solely the thermostat or could it be something else.
2002 Td4
 
If it is cold weather then very probably need a new thermostat.

The Gates mod is cheap and cheerful.
 
Thanks guys, if it is either the stuck thermostat, or failed pump, how can I test for each one? I am in NZ and fear the garages smell the cheque book when a freelander comes in.
 
Not done either on the TD4 but only way to be certain is to remove and check. Personnally I would replace pump and thermostat if I'd already taken them off to check but I do all my own repairs and don't pay labour charges. Not much point refitting originals if either are likely to fail in the near future.
 
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