Torsen said:
Hi

My 2001 TD4 is still lack of power. I hav changed:

- 2 x fuel pump
- EGR blanking
- vacuum pipes
- Chrankshaft filter
- fuel an air filter
- turbo hoses
- turbo solenoid

But it still lack of power, but no smoke. Engine also rattle to much. But between the engine bay fusebox and the firewall/bulkhead there is an hidden sensor with some red rubber on the top. Its hard to get the finger down there, but it feels like the red colored top is a kind og push-button, and wiring goes in to ECU. Do any of you now what this is?
Click to expand...

That is the emergency fuel cut-off switch - which operates only in the event of an accident/impact - it is reset by pushing down on the red top.

I can't see that as any part of your low power problem as it is either an on or off thing - it will stop the engine - not restrict or slow it.

What's the mileage?

Have you tried a bottle of injector cleaner? Even if you have I would try it again. After that tankful, I would be adding the good old mineral based 2-stroke oil to every tankful. 200ml to 300ml per 50 litres of diesel should make the engine a bit quieter at least.

(Note - not at the same time as the injector cleaner)

Singvogel.
 
Thanks singvogel, I also find out that it is an emergency reset button.

I also use injector cleaner every 3-4 tank and rest of the time, 2-stroke oil. But the problem is still there.
 
i have this exact problem , only had it a week so did not pick it up on test drive , to be fair i bought it off an elderly lady who basically drove it round the lanes to the shops and back.
i have ordered a STC4198 solenoid valve has this sounds like the cure , £60 delivered was the best price i could get , also gonna blank off the egr valve whilst i am tinkering , hope the solenoid valve works has apart from that the freelander is in cracking condition, only thing that did not work was the sat nav unit and so had an aftermarket stereo in but my friend has repaired so will drop back in at the end of the week.:cool:
 
fitting a new solenoid valve , fuel filter and egr blanking mod for good measure , hope the solenoid valve clears the problem :(
 
could not get to the valve . looks like a ramp is needed to remove the sump guards 1st , hope this is right , gonna ask local independant landy guys to do it
 
Thanks to the OP - this was my problem and his diagnostic method (unplug pipe 1) worked like a charm.

One thing I haven't seen discussed anywhere, can the valve assembly be fixed, reconditioned or something like that? New ones are getting expensive now, like everything, I bet like many of you out there, are like me and "struggling" at the moment.
 
Hi I have a freelander 2.0 tdi on a w reg its got full service history,yesterday I had a oil and filter change.Right now I will get to the fault!! today when driving it keeps losing power when doing any speed but when i change gear it picks up for a few feet then dies again any ideas???
 
One solution to low power problem found.

Our Freelander TD4, 100,000km, low power, wouldn't rev past 3500 in 3rd gear. Also terrible on hills.

Having read thru this forum and spoken to my local mechanic I had ordered and was about to change the Mass Airflow Sensor. I had just managed to find the 5 point torx bit, but before I got home my wife reported a massive explosion, and then the car ran quite well, apart from sounding like a V8 race car .

The front muffler had exploded, so I am surmising one of the exhausts were blocked, Its going in for a new one tomorrow.

Phew!
Sean
 
Took to the exhaust shop today.
Catalytic converter had decided to fall apart and clog all the other mufflers.
All running well now
 
Had exactly same issue 70mph with six td4's in past all turned out to be the fuel metering valve located on the back of the main injector pump on the engine shuts down under load hence making it drop speed and struggle to get 50mph ease off and clears and picks up again but does put the engine management light on issuing a code of P1260 on snap on solus diagnostic scanner hope this is of help if not fixed yet.......
 
Funky Fletch said:
Had exactly same issue 70mph with six td4's in past all turned out to be the fuel metering valve located on the back of the main injector pump on the engine shuts down under load hence making it drop speed and struggle to get 50mph ease off and clears and picks up again but does put the engine management light on issuing a code of P1260 on snap on solus diagnostic scanner hope this is of help if not fixed yet.......
Click to expand...
pretty sure this is what is happening to my 2006 freelander....

what is the solution????is it a quick clean or a new Fuel metering valve?

or something else

Jon
 
That is very helpful advice.

I have exactly the same issue on a 55 plate Td4 which I have just bought. Not a good start to the Freelander world.

It has been to the garage twice the first time they cleaned the EGR but that did not work and the problem came back on the 1st motorway run.

Its back in again and I have printed off this thread in the vain hope this will fix it.

Rhodders
 
Having this issue with our TD4 at the mo. but, it's only started after replacing the main fuel pump with the fuel pressure reg on the end.
Before fitting the pump it wouldn't start at all without a tow and then it would drive perfectly fine( tried 2 new injectors as 1 wasnt working full stop, the other leaked off excessively, new lift pump/filter, air filter etc) and was diagnosed as a faulty main pump.
Fitted a recon from Euro car parts only to find it comes with a 2nd hand pressure reg. argued with euro that it clearly shows a new reg online, but was fobbed off with the story that I should have kept my original as the one in there is only to stop dirt ingress when they paint it!!!
Anyhow, old reg is on the old pump somewhere in the recon factory :(
So, new pump on and starts a treat, and revs all the way over when cold. As soon as it warms up, about 3 miles in it'll go into limp mode when I go over 2600rpm and the mil light comes on. Flick the ignition off and back on clears it.
Now the only things to have changed after it would rev cleanly is the pump and 2nd hand reg. Pump seams to work so I've bought a new Bosch reg. to replace what's on there.
I'll come back with the results on the weekend.
Oh, plugged the landy into a diagnostic and it pull up no error codes. I tell you, VW's are far easier lol
 
Last edited:
Nope, not the pressure reg. on the pump.
Strange that it only happens when it's cold, indicating it could be a temp. sensor. I'll keep you updated.
 
bdd said:
My TD4 is also doing that - exact symptoms as above. It does it from about 5 miles into the journey, lasts for about 3, then it clears. It will do the very same thing the next day, at same point in the journey.

I also have a diesel leak (wet underguard under engine - not the leak off pipes as far as I can see). I'm hoping it is not the diesel pump, I believe these are expensive?

Suppose I will have to poke around underneath and source the leak, and get a diagnostic done.

This car has been nothing but bother since I bought it in Jan 09 - a real money pit....:rolleyes:
Click to expand...
hello all have had the same problem with power loss,have change all filters,no change in power. loss have to day replaced the turbo boost solenoid,still the same problem,have now pulled off the egr vacume pipe compleatley from egr and the egr solenoid located on the front of the engine under the egr valve,this looks like the solenoid on the back of the engine for the turbo boost.BINGO problem solved,found this to be the cure,hope this helps you guys & girls out,has been a real pain finding the falt.
 
RonMc said:
Having this issue with our TD4 at the mo. but, it's only started after replacing the main fuel pump with the fuel pressure reg on the end.
Before fitting the pump it wouldn't start at all without a tow and then it would drive perfectly fine( tried 2 new injectors as 1 wasnt working full stop, the other leaked off excessively, new lift pump/filter, air filter etc) and was diagnosed as a faulty main pump.
Fitted a recon from Euro car parts only to find it comes with a 2nd hand pressure reg. argued with euro that it clearly shows a new reg online, but was fobbed off with the story that I should have kept my original as the one in there is only to stop dirt ingress when they paint it!!!
Anyhow, old reg is on the old pump somewhere in the recon factory :(
So, new pump on and starts a treat, and revs all the way over when cold. As soon as it warms up, about 3 miles in it'll go into limp mode when I go over 2600rpm and the mil light comes on. Flick the ignition off and back on clears it.
Now the only things to have changed after it would rev cleanly is the pump and 2nd hand reg. Pump seams to work so I've bought a new Bosch reg. to replace what's on there.
I'll come back with the results on the weekend.
Oh, plugged the landy into a diagnostic and it pull up no error codes. I tell you, VW's are far easier lol
Click to expand...
disconect egr valve pipe from the solenoid,located on front of engine under the egr,its the small pipe have completley removed the pipe from the the car,and left open,BINGO problem gone full power back.
 
Kungfu0210 said:
Hello all, just thought i'd update you on the cause of my lack of power issues with my Td4 03MY in case it helps anyone.

I initially had a split turbo hose whilst on the M6. It was the short 90 deg hose. Symptoms were initially lack of power, and then black smoke and air whistling sounds. Bought a new one of those for under a tenner and fitted it.

Unfortunately it didn't fix the lack of power over 70mph, but at least there was now no smoke. Symptoms now were that on a slight gradient on the motorway the car would start to lose power and thus speed. There was also a slight noise but not the same as the air noise from the split before.

The Td4 turbo is variable geometry and is controlled by the boost solenoid (see black plastic unit in the picture). It applies a vacuum to the turbo via pipe 1 in the photo. When the vacuum is applied the turbo exhaust side vanes close and it uses more exhaust gas to provide more boost.

My solenoid had failed so that it constantly applied vacuum to the turbo, and thus operated it at max boost all of the time. What then happens is that when you get a high speed / load condition i.e. 70mph and a hill, the ecu senses that the turbo is over boosting and derates the engine by cutting the fuel in order to protect it from damage. It will then speed up again when you get back onto the flat.

The solenoid is STC4198, cost £34, took 15mins to fit (don't need undertray off). Fitted and all working perfectly now.

So if you have lack of power on hills at 70mph, try this test. Pull pipe 1 off the turbo and drive a 70mph hill and see if it cures your issue. If it does, voila it's the boost solenoid. With the pipe off it will be a little sluggish at low speed accels as it won't be able to close the vanes for full boost, but it's fine to drive in order to do your 70mph test.

For info pipe 1 is solenoid vacuum to turbo, pipe 2 is vac supply to solenoid from the plastic reservoir at the side of the engine, pipe 3 is the solenoid vent to fresh air via the little filter. Check these for holes as they rub various engine parts. Also worth checking that your boost solenoid filter isn't blocked, as this would prevent the solenoid from releasing the vacuum and cause the same symptom. Fair chance it's ok though and your solenoid is bust.

Good luck ! :)
Click to expand...
egr solenoid will cause the same problem,on front of the engine,take the little pipe off complety,problem gone .
 
Here's a picture. - ringed with red.
Not sure why it would fix it - have you blocked off the pipe going to vacuum supply?
 

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