Hello all, just thought i'd update you on the cause of my lack of power issues with my Td4 03MY in case it helps anyone.

I initially had a split turbo hose whilst on the M6. It was the short 90 deg hose. Symptoms were initially lack of power, and then black smoke and air whistling sounds. Bought a new one of those for under a tenner and fitted it.

Unfortunately it didn't fix the lack of power over 70mph, but at least there was now no smoke. Symptoms now were that on a slight gradient on the motorway the car would start to lose power and thus speed. There was also a slight noise but not the same as the air noise from the split before.

The Td4 turbo is variable geometry and is controlled by the boost solenoid (see black plastic unit in the picture). It applies a vacuum to the turbo via pipe 1 in the photo. When the vacuum is applied the turbo exhaust side vanes close and it uses more exhaust gas to provide more boost.

My solenoid had failed so that it constantly applied vacuum to the turbo, and thus operated it at max boost all of the time. What then happens is that when you get a high speed / load condition i.e. 70mph and a hill, the ecu senses that the turbo is over boosting and derates the engine by cutting the fuel in order to protect it from damage. It will then speed up again when you get back onto the flat.

The solenoid is STC4198, cost £34, took 15mins to fit (don't need undertray off). Fitted and all working perfectly now.

So if you have lack of power on hills at 70mph, try this test. Pull pipe 1 off the turbo and drive a 70mph hill and see if it cures your issue. If it does, voila it's the boost solenoid. With the pipe off it will be a little sluggish at low speed accels as it won't be able to close the vanes for full boost, but it's fine to drive in order to do your 70mph test.

For info pipe 1 is solenoid vacuum to turbo, pipe 2 is vac supply to solenoid from the plastic reservoir at the side of the engine, pipe 3 is the solenoid vent to fresh air via the little filter. Check these for holes as they rub various engine parts. Also worth checking that your boost solenoid filter isn't blocked, as this would prevent the solenoid from releasing the vacuum and cause the same symptom. Fair chance it's ok though and your solenoid is bust.

Good luck ! :)

I also have a lack of power at 70 but discovered this evening if I
switch off the engine and switch it back on again I regain power for a minute or 2 and then lose it again
could this be a fuel problem ie pump not starting or ECU problem
when I switch on the ignition the pump runs for a long time before stopping maybe 1 min or min and half
any idea what is causing the problem
 
I also experience a lack of power on my TD4 although tickover was very smooth. The lack of power symptoms developed gradually getting worse over a period of about two months. Eventually I worked out that the turbo was not functioning as it should.

Useing a vacuem pump connected directly to the actuator I tested the turbo waste gate. This operated OK I then removed and tested the solenoid operated vacuem switch. This was OK. I then tested the vacuem pipe from the vacuem accumulator and found that it would not hold a vacuem.

This pipe was replaced with a new vacuem line for about £5. The engine ran fine, back to normal power. The original pipe ruins round the cylinder head to cam cover joint where it is subject to heat and oil which in my case had caused it to perish. I bought a longer piece than the original and ran it round the back of the engine compartment so that I could easily check it in future.

I think with any problem in the trurbo the vacuem system from the engine run vacuem pump and the vacuem pipes which go to the ERG and the turbo waste gate need to be checked for leaks before going on to the more expensive bits!
 
Hi - Very similar symptoms to what I have experienced today, mine was also accompanied by yellow dashboard warning light....(engine symbol with exclamation mark). Did you have the same? I have 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 HSE.
I consulted owners handbook, I am a Brit living in Norway, and the handbook is in Swedish and Finish....I think it mentions something about emission levels from the motor...any ideas ?? or an English version ??

Thanks
 
Perhaps the injectors.

Still having same prob with mine also.
Just a quick update, I never really cured my fault with the 70mph thing, but recently it has been a right bugger to start. Took it to a 'real' Landy mechanic this time, and he replaced 2 injectors and a breather. Car is as good as new now with no lag top end.:D
Now very skint but very pleased.
 
A big THANKYOU to the OP. :)
New solenoid fixed mine. 20 minute job.

Price has gone up though. Cheapest I could find (Inc delivery and VAT) was only about a fiver less than an original LR part. Guy Salmon, Knutsford £58 !! :Cry:

Thanks again Kungfu0210
 
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I have tested this solenoid and it seams to be ok. The is vacume when I pull pipe on off.. Disconnected the MAF and this did seam to cure it but I did have loads of black smoke out the back end.. Have orders one of eBay for £23. Also had oil orpine the filler cap, so I've ordered a new breather filter.. Still wondering if it is the MAF or something else. Any help grately appreciated..
 
I had a similar problem after a recent drive to Morecambe last weekend.Travelling back up the M6 I felt a bit of a chug, as if the fuel was not going through, then it would be ok again.Found it hard to get to 3000 rpm and it felt as flat as a fart.It gradually became worse this week, and we struggled yesterday.Black smoke came out of the exhaust when I pressed the accelerator.So armed with the info on this thread, and the Haynes manual my hubby bought me for Xmas, this morning I set too, to see what I could find. What I was looking for was..

1.Holes in rubber pipes
2.Boost solenoid
3.Little filter at the back of the engine
4.Maf sensor


Found this.........a split hose, intercooler to manifold Britpart No PNH000020, we are lucky in having Teesdalelandrover.co.uk just a couple of miles from us, and he had one in stock,........£12.

DSC00549.jpg


DSC00550.jpg

DSC00548.jpg


Fitted the new one and could see the old one was also rubbing on part of the engine, so..........

DSC00552.jpg



Made a little collar from the old one to give a little more protect and tiewrapped it on.....


DSC00556.jpg



Chuffed to bits with myself,.......thanks for all the info here.Don't ever be afraid to post however menial, cos us newies need all the info poss.
 
Hi all
i have been havingsimilar problems to some of those listed. Mine is a 55 td4 3dr. I was leaving Edinburgh yesterday on the start of a 250 mile trip, put my foot down,engine revved to 3000 ish rpm and then nothing:eek:. No warning lights or smoke or funny noises, just no power to go above 3250 rpm when acelerating. Tried disonecting solenoid pipe this morning but didn't seem to do anything. If i rev it, it gets to 3750 and no more and splutters a bit with emissions light flickering ocasionally. Could this be a fuel delivery problem?
Any thoughts appreciated.
 
None of the above either. Called in a favour and took it to a mates garage. Fault code reader identified fuel pressure fault. Replaced in line pump under wheelarch and bingo - good as new. Allthe symtoms pointed to turbo solenoid but i'm glad i didn't just dive in and change it.
Beware! Thingsmay not be as they seem!
 
Hi,

I'm glad your on the road again.

The reason I didn't include the pump itself on my list was because it was working.

If the pump doesn't actually pump then the engine won't start at all.

Perhaps it was not working at full power?

I hope your mate changed the filter too.

Regards, S. :cool:
 
We'll I still have my problem with lack of power. Changed the MAF sensor and turbo solenoid filter. Did fit a vacume leak sorted that. Also changed the cam breather filter. Have orderd a EGR bypass. Apart from that I am at a loss. Any suggestions very much appreciated. Any using a lot more fuel not sure if this helps..
 
Wonder if it's the fuel pump not at full power? All this started from when the battery went flat and I jump started the car...?
 
Having same problem, tried pulling vac pipe off turbo with no change. I can't understand how pulling this pipe off, would show a duff solenoid. Surely disconnecting gives the same result as being connected to a solenoid which isn't working. Ordered new solenoid will renew vac pipes. Hope that works, now doing it at slower speeds on any hill with MIL showing.
 
Hi Springer1. Is there vac all the time when you pull the pipe off. Checked it at 790rpm and there was a slight vacum, and the same at 2500rpm. so i,m not sure if this means it is u/s or not. I also drove with the vac pipe off and it made no difference. Think i'll get a new one anyway. any other suggestions?
 

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