OK, well I tested the connector on the fuel pressure sensor and it is reading 5v and 0.5v from 2 of the wires, so the fuel pressure sensor seems OK. But, after reading about injectors etc, I think that leaky injector may be the cause of the problem, because it started on when being towed several times until recently (and I think this is becaue the diesel level has dropped between the 1/4 mark and empty). I'm going to try to get an injector tomorrow and get it replaced. Is it a DIY job to replace an injector or would it need to be done by a mechanic?
 
If an injector 'leaks back' more than a dribble during the usual test then it can cause non starting problems. If you soak around the base of the injector with penetrating oil for a few hours it can make removal a lot easier.
 
Posted this on a different one so appologies.
Should the injectors leak at all? I would have assumed that they will leak slightly hence the return pipe.

Also would the increased pressure because of the Synergy tuning module increase the leak or cause a leak due to increased pressure?
 
Plan now is to get a replacement injector and replace the leaky one and pray this fixes the problem. If it doesn't I'll have to get it towed 35 miles to the nearest independent specialist :S

Are there any guides for changing an injector on a Td4? Is it a big job?
 
Changing the injector can be a 5 min job if they move when clamp is removed, if it is stuck then can be a real pain, we have a home made slide hammer, which you screw on the the top of injector.
Whilst a leaking injector will stop the engine from fireing, once running should not cause any of the problems you have.
The best way to find out is to take it to a good independant and hook it up, that will give all the fuel pressure of each injector and also the high pressure pump.
The way we normally get the engine to fire if the injector is leaking is to undo the front air intake hose, spray easy start in replace hose and crank the engine, it will fire and if the only problem is leak back, then it will fire and run ok.
When engine is running the high pressure pump runs at 28000 psi, but what cranking only at about 1200 psi, the cpu requires 1000 psi to fire so the leaking injector does not allow the common rail to pressurise to 1000 psi but when running its fine at it has 28000 psi
 
Use an open-ended spanner on the flats of the injector to wiggle it within the clearance allowed by the studs. This cracks the seal on the O ring and makes moving easier.

Dont try and turn it too far!
 
Took the intake manifold off yesterday, as well as the electrical connector on the injector and the fuel pipe to it. But, as predicted, it's refusing to come out. Tried everything (including a crow bar lol) to try to prise the thing out, but no joy. I'm wondering though, if I had a socket the right size, would I be able to put this on the top of the injector (the hex shape bit) and twist it back and forth to try to release it? The socket size must be 28 or 29mm because my 30mm socket is too big and my 27mm socket is too small. My socket set jumps from 27mm to 30mm fs :( Also, is it just the 2 nuts that screw onto the torx bolts that hold it in place? Do I need to get a torx socket set and remove these bolts too?
 
Crap, that would be why it aint budging... Didnt know the torx studs had to come out too. I'll try to get a torx socket set on my way home from work in either BnQ or Hellfrauds. Anyone know what size of torx socket I'd need?
 
Undo the Torx studs with a couple of turns on each one, gradually they draw up the saddle lifting the injector out of the head. When putting the studs back in the torque is only 7ftlbs on both the studs and the nuts.
 
big dogg said:
hi folks...

I've posted on here before regarding my '03 freelander 2.0 td4 manual, but this is a fresh problem and has me baffled :s the car was running fine until a week or so ago. I bought a tuning box from ebay (read around all different ones before i made the decision as to which to go for - feedback was all great etc.) and the difference was unreal. Far more power from low revs right to the red line. It was also easier on the juice. In line with the instructions, i increased the box by 1 notch at a time. I also disconnected the small hose from the egr valve and cleaned inside it. Next day all was fine and i was still increasing it it every few hours (only a few notches through the 2 days - i hadn't reached maximum yet). Then when i was driving, the engine management light came on.. Few seconds later i had no power... Few seconds after that the engine died. Wouldn't start again after that. Would turn, but not fire. Disconnected and removed the tuning box in case this was the cause of the problem, but no joy. Got the car towed home. Then towed it to a mechanic the next day. It started when being towed, but not as much power as it should have. However later the engine management light came on and after pulling in, the car wouldn't start. Got it towed home again and it started on the rope again, but died again shortly after. Put £5 diesel in (even though it was between the empty and quarter mark) just incase the fuel guage was innaccurate. Then when towing it back from the garage, it started on the rope and we were able to drive it home (about 5 miles), though very little power. When we got home, it would start on the key ok and the engine management light went out.

When we went to bring the car to the mechanic the next day, it wouldn't start, so we towed it to the mechanic. It isn't far from us, so we didn't try to start it on the rope and thought it was better for the mechanic to see it dead anyway. The mechanic read diagnostic codes from the car and it showed low fuel pressure and after further inspection they said it wasn't the fuel pump in the wheel arch - they were confident that fuel was getting to the engine bay ok. They replaced a small rubber seal on the injector pump and the car ran fine for 10-20 miles, then same as before, engine managment light etc, so they told me the injector pump needed replaced.

I sourced one from a breaker on ebay from a rover 75 and got the pump replaced on the car. Car ran for about 3 minutes then died again. It starts on the rope now when you put it in gear, but as soon as you put the clutch in, it dies. The mechanic thinks the pump might be faulty, but i don't think that's what it is.

I've read several threads on forums on the net about other similar issues and i want to try the injector leak test (even though the injectors were replaced less than a year ago), but i'm not sure how to go about this. Can anyone point me in the direction of a guide or pictures?

I disconnected the green fuel pressure sensor connector at the end of the rail (this is where i had the tuning box plugged in, but removed it as soon as the problem 1st ocurred in case that was the fault) because someone else said their car started after they disconnected this connector, but still no joy.

Is it possible the tuning box could of caused the fuel pressure sensor to malfunction or break? I read someone else's post about the voltages the sensor should be at, so i'll test this tomorrow and hope this sheds some light.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers.

Update: I've been reading more posts regarding a leak off test, i realise i forgot to mention something... When the car first broke down, i pulled the rear seats forward and moved the carpet and cover from the top of the tank (i thought that's where the fuel pump was) and a mechanic friend took the fuel lines of and i flicked the ignition to position 2 (lights on, but not starting the engine) and off again and loads of diesel came back the fuel out line. I'm now thinking this could be caused my a faulty injector sending lots of diesel back to the tank?? There was lots of pressure in that line as the mechanic couldn't keep his finger over the end of the fuel line when i flicked the ignition to position 2 for 1 second. Definately want to do a leak off test tomorrow after work (if i can find a guide for how to do it).
Click to expand...

i bought tuning chip on ebay and found that it uses the primer pump under the back wheel arch to give you more power pump burnt out after 7 months when it first happened i had a lot of the problems you have had have fitted new pump now got rid of chip
 
Bit of an update folks. Left the car up to a mechanic to try to get the injector out for me. He welded a bolt on to the injector and got it out. He then put the new injector in and put everything back together again. Started 1st time and the car's been running ok for 2 weeks now :D

Finger's crossed it stays that way ;)

Thanks for all the help folks :)
 
Stallard said:
Where can I find the Fuel rail pressure Sensor on a 03 TD4 manual..
Many thank in advance..
Click to expand...

Hi,

Under the induction pipe which feeds the air filter box just above and behind the EGR valve there should be a multiplug - this is the fuel rail pressure sensor.

Could I suggest that if you need more assistance, that you give more info and start a new thread. This one is 2 years old! :)

Singvogel. :cool:
 
My freelander td4 has above normal high pressure fuel reading when rev higher than tickover but then smokes fuel smokeuntil revs drop.Also runs-on after switch off,any idears?
 
mrW said:
My freelander td4 has above normal high pressure fuel reading when rev higher than tickover but then smokes fuel smokeuntil revs drop.Also runs-on after switch off,any idears?
Click to expand...

Diesel runaway possibly. Don't run it until you get it checked by a diesel technician.
 
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