Moosekeeper

Moosekeeper

Member
Just bought my first ever diesel - Freelander 1 TD4 2004. I had two brand new Durite gauges left over from cancelled projects and was hoping to fit them to my Freelander to cover up the two holes on the top of the dash apparently for cans of Coke! Seriously a voltmeter can save your bacon if your battery is dying on a dark, cold night with everthing on electrically and oil pressure is, of course, a good monitor of an engine's health. The only bit I didn't have was an M12 x 1.5 T piece and I got one easily enough on Ebay. I don't have a ramp or pit at home so I was going to get my local garage to fit the T piece and sender, me doing the rest of the installation.
However the Haynes manual has me worried. It describes fitting a new oil pressure switch as requiring removal of the starter motor. And removal of the starter motor requiring removal of the battery! Doable I suppose but isn't there an easier way? I thought access might be gained by removing the engine undertray or front "skid plate" whatever it's called. Is the location of the switch so awkward that all this dismatling is necessary? Any crafty ways of doing this (or should I just buy two cans of Coke to fill those holes?!)

 
Removal of the battery and tray to access the starter motor is quite an easy job providing the battery clamp bolt is not rusted in. When removed the starter motor to bell housing bolts are accessible, at a guess it should take around half an hour or so to remove the starter motor.Make sure that you have the radio code (If needed) before disconnecting the battery and remember that the tailgate window will need to be reset after battery reconnection.
Will more than likely take you longer to fish the cable from the gauge sender through to the inside of the car !!
Remember to apply some thread sealant or PTFE tape to the "T" piece, switch and gauge sender threads prior to assembly.
 
While I agree that extra gauges are handy. I find the drinks holders very useful for those longer trips out. Wouldn't your gauges be pointing at the windscreen if you fit them in the drinks holder?
 
You need an extended pipe for T-Piece. There is no place to fit pressure sender, so you need to move it.
 
Those drinks holders are also as rare as rocking horse pooh and also command a decent price (at least here). The reason I "had" to get my project car was cos it had a drinks holder - secondary that it had roof rails - 3rd a center console - 4th was it had a working IRD - which was why I was after a project/parts car in the first place.

I have to make sure I still have it each time @htr visits - cos I know he's got his eye on it :)

The silly thing is though, that having got it and removed it to put in our main car - I didn't install it. I realised that the bit of rubber it replaces on the dash is the only place to put 'tat' (phones, pens, coins, golf tees, dirty hankeys etc). So I'll have to install the console before I install the drinks holder.
 
Thanks everyone for your replies. It sounds like access and clearences make the job impracticable unless you were preparing the car for competition and had it in bits or the engine already out. Winu's comment was the clincher, basically that there is no room to fit the sender anyway unless you plumb in an extension to the T-piece. So looks like I keep the drinks holders after all!
 
Is the TD4 oil filter mount anything like the K 1.8's? I drilled and tapped a hole near' the existing o'pressure sender to fit my electrical o/p gauge. There was one already done and plugged but it was on the wrong side and there was a space for another opp' that which is I used.
 
Nope, Td4 have insert filter type, not canister. There is no space between starter motor and engine block.
This is a kit:
2015-08-07 11.18.13.jpg

Oil pipe, T-Piece and stock oil switch loom extender.

Always you can put gauges a little bit lower:
IMG_7755-Edit-2.jpg
 
Hi Winu - how can I get a kit, please? The braided extension pipe seems like the key to the space problem.
Thank you.
Clive
 
I have trial fitted the M12 x 1.5 T-piece, oil pressure switch and Durite sender unit - photo. I could possibly get a braided hose made locally ( had it done before, plenty of hydraulic specialists in Liverpool). I'm guessing the length is about 50cm. Hose would have to be M12 x 1.5 male to M12 x 1.5 female (obviously) and good for oil at engine pressures. The extension electrical lead is tricky as I don't know where I could get those plugs, some sort of industry standard type - so if you know where I could buy the lead ready made, that would be most welcome. The access seems to be from above? Is the pressure switch high up on the block - I'm used to them being very low down, access always from below. Once the T-piece is on the hose, I suppose it can be remotely mounted anywhere convenient (and accessible) on an inner wing, perhaps?
I would fit a small 12 volt gel battery to save the radio codes etc. while the main battery was removed. For cup holder fans, mine are two big moulded holes in the top of the dash itself. I would fit the gauges on a pod over the holes, locked into them, maybe with two empty cans!
I'm hoping that we can find an existing grommeted hole in the bulkhead to put the sender lead through. I would be aiming the take an "ignition live" [what do you call it on a diesel?] from the fuse box and find an earth point somewhere in the cabin and ideally an instument lighting feed for the gauges.
Anyone wishing to add any helpful suggestions?
Thanks
Picture 001.jpg
 
That's brilliant, I really appreciate your help and this is now a great link for all members wanting to do the job. I've bought the Ebay kit and I see several Ebay sellers are selling JPT connectors so will stock up on them, too - handy to have in the parts box!
Thanks again!
Clive
 
JPT connectors are best bought from an automotive wiring supplier. There are loads about. Just bear in mind that you need to order the plug or socket and the relevent pins, seals and strain relief.
 
Winu said:
Nope, Td4 have insert filter type, not canister. There is no space between starter motor and engine block.
This is a kit:
View attachment 99958
Oil pipe, T-Piece and stock oil switch loom extender.

Always you can put gauges a little bit lower:
View attachment 99957
Click to expand...
I know this is an old thread, but possibly plan to fit an oil pressure gauge along with boost gauge & maybe battery voltage. Likely to stick with boost & oil pressure.
Does the kit fit in this way....
Silver adapter into original pressure switch place, then braded hose onto silver in engine block.
T-piece on other end of braided, then the bronze adapter in end of T for new sensor, then the standard pressure switch in the top of T?
 
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