Did the 'easy' stuff today. Refurbed the starter motor with new solenoid contacts and tested it - current required to power the solenoid surprised me a bit - quite a spark and all fed through a 6mm spade connector - oh well LR know what they are doing don't they :)

Removed PAS pump from new engine as I will be putting the current one aside connected up and then refitting just before I lower the engine into position.
Cleaned new engine and fitted BMW breather and K&N air filter. Cleaned out oil filter case and fitted new filter. Removed alternator ready to take my existing one which is nearly new. So have surplus; starter, alternator, PAS pump - anyone? Have started a parts for sale in the correct place to clear the 'not neededs' to anyone wanting them - please see https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...er-3-door-td4-manual-monte-carlo-blue.334171/

Checked out the differences between the auto water pipes and the manual one. If you remove the pipes from the cooler rail at the bottom and fit the new engine with just the cooler rail then all the auto pipework stays with the car - no problem. At the top the auto has an additional 'T' joint for the flow or return to the auto box cooler. When I have the engines side by side I will either swap the top hose or cut the manual engine top hose down a bit to match the auto one. Needs a photo really !!!!

All fixing bolts to engine mounts and engine to box are now loosened ready. Just the one on the IRD to go - awaiting 'wobble' extensions as I don't want to wreck the bolt or my shoulder muscles !
 
andyfreelandy said:
current required to power the solenoid surprised me a bit - quite a spark and all fed through a 6mm spade
Click to expand...

It's about 10 to 12 Amps hold current. However it's a coil which has an inductance. It's this inductance that causes the huge spark when powered up. A coil will charge up and takes more in rush current than it would to hold it.

Also if you put your fingers across the spade and body of the starter as you disconnect it, you'll get shock as the electromagnetic field collapses. Actually don't do that as it'll be a few hundred volts when the field collapses, but that's what inductors do. They store current in the short term and release it quickly at high voltage when there power is removed.
 
Don't forget to swap the EGR cooler over from the auto engine to the replacement manual engine. ;)
 
Yes, have been thinking about that. Why does the auto have a cooler and the manual not have one? I will probably fit my bypass anyway and so assume that will be ok. Would the cooler matter to try the engine out? My cooler pipes burst a while back and I blanked the coolant rail feed to it.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Why does the auto have a cooler and the manual not have one? I will probably fit my bypass anyway and so assume that will be ok. Would the cooler matter to try the engine out?
Click to expand...

The auto engine will work harder than the manual engine. This would increase the temperature of the exhaust gasses fed into the intake. Very hot exhaust gasses, fed into a plastic inlet manifold could melt it. BMW obviously found the auto needed the cooler, or it wouldn't have been fitted.
 
Fair point ! I'll fit the EGR blanking - simpler and less coolant leak opportunities. I know MOT are now looking for changes in emission equipment but under the cover it should be fine !
 
andyfreelandy said:
I know MOT are now looking for changes in emission equipment but under the cover it should be fine !
Click to expand...

You could fit a solid plate under the exhaust take off at the exhaust manifold. That would stop gas transfer to the EGR valve, but look completely standard, even with the covers removed. ;)
 
Good idea, have fitted the bypass that I had for now - any compliance problems I'll mod as you suggest !

Today whilst the inlet manifold of the donor was soaking in my special mix of dishwasher powder (slightly caustic) and boiling water, I thought I'd turn my attention to completing the survey of the V6 and removing the front subframe. Already decided that the complete rear subframe and all parts are coming from the donor but retaining the V6 diff as it is lower mileage (not sure about ration either !). Front end is a sad state. Have decided that everything from the strut base down is scrap. Fortunately my trusty impact wrench (mains driven and bulky - but ideal for suspension) managed to undo all the bolts required to bin the rusty stuff - including the lower arms (even thought they have been replaced according to the service history. The nuts on the struts were so rusted that the correct size impact socket just span off a load of rust ! I hammered a size smaller on and bingo ! So everything is now ready to drop off the V6 and receive the donor front end. I will retain the V6 anti roll bar as it looks fine and may be bigger than a Td4??

See attached - inlet manifold bubbling like a witches broth, front of V6 as is with some bolts loosened / removed. I think the inlet manifold is now ready for pressure washing clean.

DSC_0798.JPG DSC_0795.JPG DSC_0797.JPGDSC_0796.JPG
 
Continued to take out the failed TD4 engine this afternoon.

The good news is my new 'wobble' extensions worked a treat on the IRD bolts and enabled me to undo the bolts from the comfort of the wheel arch ! I used a similar set up from the opposite side wheel arch to undo the exhaust manifold nuts.
I had hoped not to have to remove all the front subframe and the left hand side drive shaft and simply pull the IRD from the gearbox and place it on the front subframe as a 'shelf'. This worked, see photo, although I did have to drop the off side subframe bolts (frame and snubber) and lower the frame on this side only by about 1/2" this was to provide enough clearance to pull the IRD as it fouled on the tie bar bracket which is welded to the subframe. Doing this allowed the IRD to be manouvered into a safe position on 'the shelf' and this allowed access to the exhaust and the hidden gearbox engine bolt. Photos below.

The bad news is that despite all best efforts there simply was not enough width to pull the TD4 engine from the gearbox and gain the clearance to lift the engine, the flywheel was still well within the bellhousing even with the pulleys on the off side crossmember. I even removed the bottom pulley to gain a few more cm but no good.

However, all was not lost, I simply unbolted the nearside hub to strut bolts, supported the gearbox on a block of wood and a jack, removed the fixing bracket and slide the gearbox over about 1 1/2 inches. That is all it took to allow the flywheel to emerge !

If anyone does remove a TD4 engine this way, I would remove the alternator next time, it made it very tight and although I had unplugged the brake fluid level switch plug, I caught the socket due to having to force the engine back to get the alternator past the slam panel - new socket and switch assembly required ! Hopefully this will be the only casualty. Lifting the engine was a matter of a few pumps on the crane and checking that all was clear, I missed the fluid socket !!

I shall be fitting the replacement engine without the alternator and having used the crane to level the gearbox and tuck it neatly over to the side and then support it in this position on stands until the engine is back in and at the right height. Then, I shall push the gearbox over onto the engine and 'pin' it with bolts before assembling the mounts etc...

So if you don't need to remove the IRD and are simply replacing the 'O' ring or working on the gearbox I have proved that you don't need to drop the subframe and suspension.

DSC_0799.JPG Hub tied up and shaft pulled (2 bolts removed only). Take care to unclip the brake hoses and ABS cables and do not strain them.
DSC_0801.JPG IRD placed neatly on the 'shelf' made by leaving the front subframe in place.
DSC_0803.JPG Poorly TD4 prepared for surgery with bubble wrap to protect slam panel.
DSC_0804.JPG Gearbox supported on jack with wood block. Engine restrained by crane and chain prior to extraction. It is easier to loosen all engine to gearbox bolts and nuts before you remove the stays and IRD support bracket as the engine rocks around all over the place afterwards !
DSC_0805.JPG Up, up and away - tight as a ducks do dah!! I shortened the chains and jammed the bonnet wide open, just clears the slam panel, as mentioned above it would be much easier with the alternator off (even though that is a bit tricky with the engine in situ).

Going to spend a few hours comparing and checking all newest components get swapped over, replacing vacuum hoses etc before putting the replacement engine back in. Hopefully now that I have the photos and locations of all nuts and bolts this should be simpler. I am going to hire a cordless 3/8" ratchet (a powerful one) to reduce the workload with the refit !
 
andyfreelandy said:
I had hoped not to have to remove all the front subframe and the left hand side drive shaft and simply pull the IRD from the gearbox and place it on the front subframe as a 'shelf'. This worked, see photo, although I did have to drop the off side subframe bolts (frame and snubber) and lower the frame on this side only by about 1/2" this was to provide enough clearance to pull the IRD as it fouled on the tie bar bracket which is welded to the subframe. Doing this allowed the IRD to be manouvered into a safe position on 'the shelf' and this allowed access to the exhaust and the hidden gearbox engine bolt.
Click to expand...

Ingenious!
I hope to never have reason to take a TD4 engine out but will bear this in mind. I suspect that I damaged an oil seal when I was last in here so I may have to split the IRD from gearbox again to fix that and this would save some of the heavy lifting (or I can just keep topping up the oil).
 
andyfreelandy said:
Continued to take out the failed TD4 engine this afternoon.
I had hoped not to have to remove all the front subframe and the left hand side drive shaft and simply pull the IRD from the gearbox and place it on the front subframe as a 'shelf'. This worked, see photo, although I did have to drop the off side subframe bolts (frame and snubber) and lower the frame on this side only by about 1/2" this was to provide enough clearance to pull the IRD as it fouled on the tie bar bracket which is welded to the subframe. Doing this allowed the IRD to be manouvered into a safe position on 'the shelf' and this allowed access to the exhaust and the hidden gearbox engine bolt. Photos below.
Click to expand...
I found dropping the subframe was the easiest way to get the gearbox out. So long as the drop links play nice of course. Can't comment on pulling the engine out tho, haven't done it in a Freelander. Not yet anyway. :p
 
Last edited:
Looks good.

Just doing a 'recky' with both engines next to each other. Nearly forgot to take out the pilot bearing in the crank ! I wondered if it mattered and thought it may just sit dormant in an auto - but the TC has a mushroom in the middle that goes into the crank to centre it. Glad I spotted it.

Also - have found the problem with the failed engine - one end of the crank moves about 10 degrees and the other end doesn't !

Will post photos when stripped. Replacement engine ready to drop in.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Also - have found the problem with the failed engine - one end of the crank moves about 10 degrees and the other end doesn't !
Click to expand...
That'll be the crank broken then.

You do need to remove the spigot bush as you said. I had to do the same when I fitted a manual KV6 into my auto FL1.
 
rob_bell said:
That looks suspiciously like this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOSS-450...964926&hash=item51db16611c:g:ewMAAOSwhkRWcbGp
Probably the same manufacturer in China, only sold without the "Brand tax" ;)
Click to expand...
Well spotted that man. :)
When I kill my Clarke I know which one I'll be buying next time. ;)
Apart from the hassle of dragging a power cable around these things are brilliant time savers. I always use them to remove wheel nuts and it means you don't even need to loosen the nuts before jacking up. I also used mine to remove the crank pulley from a couple of K series and any time I'm working on large or rusty bolts I go straight for it. I've had mine for a few years now and it has stood up to the abuse well. :p
 
The thing to remember about the broken crank is that it started out sounding like pinking!! Depends where it is broken, could have upset timing?? Then it made a new pulley rattle to the point where I replaced it again. Then it jammed up!! When it ran between locking it sounded perfect at tick over. Just put it on engine stand to zap the sump off. I like the right angle drive ratchets. My mains driven beast is great on suspension but won't fit on any engine bolts. Too bulky.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Philgt50
Rear brakes TD4
2
Replies
26
Views
635
Philgt50
Philgt50
Z
Freelander 1 TD4 Automatic transmisson and shift selector
Replies
5
Views
226
Alteredtech
Alteredtech
H
Rear Driveshaft seized in hub
Replies
1
Views
359
Nodge68
Nodge68
J
F1: leaking rear diff - repairable?
Replies
2
Views
295
JackGriffin1933
J
xDParis64
Freelander 2 (LR2) Freelander 2 Clutch replacement difficulty?
Replies
2
Views
140
xDParis64
xDParis64