Grayo
Active Member
60k is the recommended interval to change the belts Mikey, did mine at the beginning of the year. This is when the 10 to 20NM torque wrench comes in handy but make sure it has a reversible head by this I mean it can torque both ways (clock wise and anti clock wise)
Just done this job tonight folks and wanted to post and update to this thread as I feel poor old Freeme wasnt getting where he wanted and the thread died a death.
I had exactly the same problem as him. Initially when I turned the tensioner pulley anti-clockwise, us7ng my trusty 24mm spanner, all appeared well, the belt went slackish but I noticed not slack enough to get the belt off. Bit more pressure on the tensioner....still not slack enough...and by now ive realised that the centre bolt is in fact turning and I eventually reached a point where I couldnt get any slack in the belt at all.
I had some ideas at this point, mainly from LR guys info on removing idler pulley located below however I wasnt happy with doing this with the belt under tension as this may have put excessive load on the idler pulley bolt as it reached the last few threads, and of course I didnt want to f*$k it! Cut the belt?? Chickened out that one too as that would be a show stopper should I fail to get the tensioner functioning to fit the new belt. Now as LR GUY state, the bolt head on the inside of the pulley is a 15mm head. Now with a lot of patience and ****ing about I was finally able to get the open end of a 15mm combination spanner on this head with the belts fitted as normal. The only way I was with the spanner basically lying horizontal with the ring end of the spanner pointing towards the back of the car. With a tommy bar through the ring I was then able to tighten the tensioner centre bolt.......MOST IMPORTANT POINT, THIS IS A LEFT HAND THREAD.....so you are still pulling the 24mm spanner anti clockwise whole bracing the other end as above. With this done, much to my relief, the tensioner then slackened normally by turning the 24mm head anti clockwise. I hope this helps anyone who has the same problem.
Note that everyone seems to give differerent opinions on how diffcult this job is. To be honest, once I got the tensioner functioning, it took about about another 15 minutes to fit both the air con and auxiliary belts so I would say the job is pretty straight forward. I didnt remove the wheel and the only cover I removed was the inner wheel arch, this is more than adequate for access to the belts. I would say this is definitely one of those jobs that requires a steady hand and a bit patience. If you get ****ed off then leave it and go have a cuppa then try again.
Finally, please see attached picks which show tensioner pulley and ive tried my best to show both hex's. Also for a bit of a laugh ive attached a picture of my AC belt so you can all see what lazy fckr ive been up til now by not changing it.
I had exactly the same problem as him. Initially when I turned the tensioner pulley anti-clockwise, us7ng my trusty 24mm spanner, all appeared well, the belt went slackish but I noticed not slack enough to get the belt off. Bit more pressure on the tensioner....still not slack enough...and by now ive realised that the centre bolt is in fact turning and I eventually reached a point where I couldnt get any slack in the belt at all.
I had some ideas at this point, mainly from LR guys info on removing idler pulley located below however I wasnt happy with doing this with the belt under tension as this may have put excessive load on the idler pulley bolt as it reached the last few threads, and of course I didnt want to f*$k it! Cut the belt?? Chickened out that one too as that would be a show stopper should I fail to get the tensioner functioning to fit the new belt. Now as LR GUY state, the bolt head on the inside of the pulley is a 15mm head. Now with a lot of patience and ****ing about I was finally able to get the open end of a 15mm combination spanner on this head with the belts fitted as normal. The only way I was with the spanner basically lying horizontal with the ring end of the spanner pointing towards the back of the car. With a tommy bar through the ring I was then able to tighten the tensioner centre bolt.......MOST IMPORTANT POINT, THIS IS A LEFT HAND THREAD.....so you are still pulling the 24mm spanner anti clockwise whole bracing the other end as above. With this done, much to my relief, the tensioner then slackened normally by turning the 24mm head anti clockwise. I hope this helps anyone who has the same problem.
Note that everyone seems to give differerent opinions on how diffcult this job is. To be honest, once I got the tensioner functioning, it took about about another 15 minutes to fit both the air con and auxiliary belts so I would say the job is pretty straight forward. I didnt remove the wheel and the only cover I removed was the inner wheel arch, this is more than adequate for access to the belts. I would say this is definitely one of those jobs that requires a steady hand and a bit patience. If you get ****ed off then leave it and go have a cuppa then try again.
Finally, please see attached picks which show tensioner pulley and ive tried my best to show both hex's. Also for a bit of a laugh ive attached a picture of my AC belt so you can all see what lazy fckr ive been up til now by not changing it.
Attachments
Spacemonkey...
Well-Known Member
Has anyone actually replaced the tensioner and idler pulley themselves? Any idea how it is done? I'm guessing there's a holder for the tensioner that can be unbolted as the tensioner arm had a screw thread on the end.
The idler pulley would be a doddle to change as Im sure youl be able to buy the complete pully. Its easy to access and just a single bolt with 6mm allen head. I though about the tensioner too with it being normal in some cases to change belt and tensioner together but I havent looked up yet what lr recommend, I was just keen to get belts changed as my air con belt was in particularly bad condition and might have taken the auxy belt with it had it failed. I'll post here if I find more tensioner info.
Spacemonkey...
Well-Known Member
I have the tensioner and idler, just got to work out how to fit the tensioner.
Grayo
Active Member
I followed the diagram in my Haynes manual and it was spot on.
Was that on a td4? he said the path was far more complicated than the haynes pic he got a diagram from his laptop
Grayo
Active Member
Yep on my 06 TD4, I found it easy to follow. Can't see why he had a problem there's only one way they can go on.
Hi musky81 got the same problem on my freelander td4, with the serpentine belt tensioner, bolt head on the back just keeps on turning my 15mm spanner it was at vertical and it will not go on ,no way, you did it at horizontal, so i will have another go i was thinking tensioner was no good but you have given me some hope, do you think al will be well if i can tighten it up .thanks pacific
- cut the belt (easy)
- get rid of the idler (allen screw)
- dispose of the aircon belt
- put the eye of 15mm combined spanner on the nut behind the tensioner and then it was no problem tightening the 24mm bolt (anti-clockwise)
Little setback: I ordered a PQS101310 to replace the aircon belt and discovered it has been replaced by PQS000180 on the late models (just a little longer).
- get rid of the idler (allen screw)
- dispose of the aircon belt
- put the eye of 15mm combined spanner on the nut behind the tensioner and then it was no problem tightening the 24mm bolt (anti-clockwise)
Little setback: I ordered a PQS101310 to replace the aircon belt and discovered it has been replaced by PQS000180 on the late models (just a little longer).
redborderreivers
New Member
you have just saved me hours of time thanks, i have the same problem on my 06 td4, yesterday when i was trying to change the auxilliary belt. tensioner centre bolt was keep turning, again what a stupid design by landrover, i am making a special tool this morning, using a 15mm spanner and 12mm bolt at 90 dgrees -welded, so can get at the 15mm nut back of tensioner , this should allow me to tension anti clockwise easier from the top of the engine. thanks again, brian
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Just a question. If the tensioner is on a LH thread and you turn tensioner anti clock to slacken belt then the pulley bolt should be being tightened and not rotate? Only time I unscrewed mine was when I accidentally turned it the wrong way!!
redborderreivers
New Member
hi , the bolt just turns in the assembly it should be located on a square shaft or splined shaft to stop this happening-still having great diificulty on mine . i will up date later
redborderreivers
New Member
managed to get the belt on , had to make two special tools , one to hold the 15mm bolt at the back of the tensioner pulley and a 24mm socket cut down and welded to a bar on a long arm to be able to get enough torque on to tighten the nut, the tool holding the nut needs to be bent so that it locates between the engine support and frame.
this took me all morning to do a job that should take 20 mins. if anyone wants pictures of the tools i made i can add them to this post,
This is another land rover design flaw. terrible design -
this took me all morning to do a job that should take 20 mins. if anyone wants pictures of the tools i made i can add them to this post,
This is another land rover design flaw. terrible design -
fastasulike72
Member
Hi mate yes I would like a few pics if possible of the tools you made as I’m also having the same problem and might have to change my crankshaft pulley to so would be great if you could as anything to make life easier ay
redborderreivers
New Member
no problem i will post them on tonight
