F

Freeme

New Member
Hi
I had some difficulty trying to turn the tensioner anticlockwise to slacken the belt.The 24mm Hex. on the tensioner just turns on its own axis instead of moving as a whole to the left !!??
Has anybody had this bother before,or any idea what the Land Rover special tool looks like.
Thanks Peter
 
Hi Peter,

I changed both belts a month ago with no problems. As you are aware you need a 24mm ring spanner with a slight offset. I used a Halfords Pro range ring spanner, this has exactly the right angle and shaft length and fits completly over the bolt head. At first it actualy feels as if the bolts is turning but you can certainly feel the 'spring' compressing and the slack forming in the belt. I'm afraid I cant explain the rotation of the bolt? Although its worth checking that the spanner ring is completly over the bolt head when putting the pressure on.

I believe the Land Rover special tool is no more than a 24mm ring on a much extended shaft making access from beneth the vehicle easier.

This may only answer part of your Q but Good luck in any case.
 
at what mileage are you changing your belts,
i have looked at mine at 70k miles and they still look in good condition , was thinking of changing them soon just in case
 
John,

At 79K the Compressor drive belt was severly cracked in numerous places. To change this you need to remove the Auxiliary so I changed this at the same time.

Cheers.
 
its er reet pig of a job, found a good way of makin it more easy [still a pain] will do a right up onnit wiff pics when better weather ,the a/c belt gits fooked furst , but if that goes its no big deal, but you cannot tell if its ok by inspection when yer get it orft un twist it you then see how bad it really is, however if the main belt ever lets you down ,your not gonna put a new one on in five mins [more like 5 hours]. . . .:)
 
think im gonna do it in the next few weeks , no point waiting till it breaks , and 70 k is good value from a belt , sounds like i need a special tool to do it
 
john t said:
think im gonna do it in the next few weeks , no point waiting till it breaks , and 70 k is good value from a belt , sounds like i need a special tool to do it
Click to expand...
like hippo sis get yerself a long handled 24mm ring spanner [low neck] just cut orft old uns ,do a/c furst ,thats easy follow settings or use mings twist method [ tension is correct if you can just twist the belt wiff finger un thumb]. . . .now fer the pig, make sure the aux belt is on correct pulleys ,the last adjuster pulley yer cant do till you put yer ext spanner on adjuster nut un pull wif all yer might[then yer cannot slip belt over cos yer need both hands onnit] titter . . . .so mings trick, get sum wide mole grips pull wiff all yer might on adjuster un get porky to clamp mole grips on bottom sub frame hence lockin adjuster spanner [leavin both hands free] when happy wiff belts possition unlock mole grips, Had three attempts afore i got it right. . . .:eek:
 
My drive belt started to disintegrate and lost 2 of the 5 vees when we were on our way back through France this last summer. After reading the manual thought I could change it while en route but couldn't get a belt a the Folkestone Halfrauds so just motored home at a reduced pace. Good job actually as it was a pig to fit. However my tip for fitting is that when I failed to be strong enough to rotate the tensioner I put a hydraulic jack under the end of the 24 A/F spanner and used that to rotate the tensioner. As has already been pointed out get the belt the right side of the spanner before moving the tensioner. It worked for me but am I glad I didn't attempt it away from home.
Allan
 
Hippo Bottomus said:
Hi Peter,

I changed both belts a month ago with no problems. As you are aware you need a 24mm ring spanner with a slight offset. I used a Halfords Pro range ring spanner, this has exactly the right angle and shaft length and fits completly over the bolt head. At first it actualy feels as if the bolts is turning but you can certainly feel the 'spring' compressing and the slack forming in the belt. I'm afraid I cant explain the rotation of the bolt? Although its worth checking that the spanner ring is completly over the bolt head when putting the pressure on.

I believe the Land Rover special tool is no more than a 24mm ring on a much extended shaft making access from beneth the vehicle easier.

This may only answer part of your Q but Good luck in any case.
Click to expand...
Hi Thanks for your reply,
Your explanation fits perfect ! The only diff. is that i can see the center
bolt 24mm and the nut,on the other end actually turning !? Or do i have
to turn the 24mm bolt an awful lot to get the tensoin off ????
Thanks again ,me living in Germany this forum is a great help!!
Peter
 
ming said:
its er reet pig of a job, found a good way of makin it more easy [still a pain] will do a right up onnit wiff pics when better weather ,the a/c belt gits fooked furst , but if that goes its no big deal, but you cannot tell if its ok by inspection when yer get it orft un twist it you then see how bad it really is, however if the main belt ever lets you down ,your not gonna put a new one on in five mins [more like 5 hours]. . . .:)
Click to expand...
Hi
Looking forward to your ( right up on it with pics ).
Thanks
Peter
 
Hi Thanks for your reply,
Your explanation fits perfect ! The only diff. is that i can see the center
bolt 24mm and the nut,on the other end actually turning !? Or do i have
to turn the 24mm bolt an awful lot to get the tensoin off ????
Thanks again ,me living in Germany this forum is a great help!!
Peter
 
YES I THINK THE BOLT THROUGH IS APROX A 15MM HEAD SO IFF YOU TAKE THE IDLER PULLEY OFF THAT SITS JUST BELOW IT YOU WILL BE ABLE TO TIGHTEN THE 24MM NUT UP ONTO THE BOLT THEN IT WILL BE TIGHT ENOUGH TO TURN ANTI CLOCKWISE , and only at this point did i realise i was in caps :p
 
Hi earthling freem. . . .looking at it with the rh wheel off [motor on jacks secured] and the plastic cowel off , with spanner on the 24mm nut to loosen belt move it clock wise [towards rear of motor] you cannot see this nut as its up a bit ,hence the long reach spanner ,this is in effect spring loaded , so if the nut is just turning ,you've got the wrong bit or its ca put [bit er German slipped in their]. . . .best oh luck:)
 
Just a wild guess but you are turning the tensioner pulley centre and not another idler one aren't you. The tensioner one needs trotating about 1/4 of a turn ie 90 degrees from memory.
Allan
 
Hi again,
Ive said before thanks again for your interest !
Anyway i had the car on the lift at work today,and removed, sump protection, righthand wheel , righthand side plastic cowl.
Welded a length of flat bar onto a sawn off flat ring spanner.All was now ready!! With the car being up a height you can clearly see the tensioner axis,and that it is going into the timing case cover at 90° ,not at the pulley axis but further down about 8cm.
After all this i tryed once again to release the tension (not from me the ...... tensioner) but it turns like i said on its own axis.
I am going to take your advice and take off the idler pulley and try and
tighten up the bolt tomorrow.
I will keep in touch
Thanks
Peter
 
thanks blippie , think mine is over due for replacement although it looks in good nick , sounds a pig of a job just for a belt change
 
Just done this job and it is a 24mm normal wrench that you need, the belt comes of easily however getting it back on is a nightmare. If you have two people this isn't a problem and the whole job should take 10 minutes.

Obtain a diagram of the belt / engine before and you'll be set. I done the job with just taking the wheel splash shield off, no jacks, no wheel off and no real bother. Except getting it back on, for that I had a helper for a minute.
 
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