DUKE OF OFFLEY

DUKE OF OFFLEY

New Member
Hi Folks,

having had a problem last year, when the autobox seemed stuck in third.....it was a fuse! A fuse related to the 'cooling'?????? But it was fine when changed!
But not this time....

However, I wasn't driving at the time, it's 'er car anyway apparently.. but it just lost power and stopped!
No drive at all, no noises, no smells nothing. Engine runs fine etc.. but just won't drive, Forwards backwards or even sidewards??

Any Ideas ( excluding the obvious! )

Titch
 
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Any thoughts then guys??

Looking through all the auto box related posts on here, it is pointing towards electrical issues..
Just so difficult to diagnose what happened when drive just ' seemed to fail' as I wasn't in the car at the time.
Is there any local mobile guys with the computer kit around the Stafford area??
Dave (Titch )
 
Depending on the amount of pulling that the vehicle has been doing this can affect the final drive plate. When my engine failed it also took out the autobox due to the strain transferred between the rotating wheels and stalled engine.

However check the fluid level and solenoids
 
Hi Folks,

Thanks.
It has done no towing really, elderly folk had it before me and I haven't done any towing with it to speak of.
Where are these solenoids you mention....
I guess really I have to get it plugged into a computer do I, to get some form of diagnostic opinion??
Dave
 
Three solenoids located in the autobox operate the gears. I'm not sure which ones do what work. I think there is a way to check them electrically at the wiring plug to the box.
 
if you get really into trouble there is a specialist in Longton ,Stoke-on-Trent called autobox or archway garage, it is the same place and same people ,they have been doing autos as long as I can remember, it must be over 40 years and they know what they are on about I could get a phone number for you if need be.
 
Thanks Teddywood1 (?)

If you don't mind then yes please. Biggest issue is getting it anywhere really.. I have a TD5 Disco as well so it could be a trailer job whatever happens... the misses can push it on the trailer if I shout at her loud enough!!

Now to look at the post on 'Regrets' on Freelanders..
Wish we could simply slam a standard box into it...yes??

Dave
 
I have sent you a email with the number on they are a great bunch and all brothers I would trust them any time
 
Thanks on that!

In the morning I'm going to ring a guy with the computer.. to see what that tells me..
I guess that is the first point of call..? Is it?
Or,.. maybe ring these guys in Longton?
I'm just miffed that last time it was only a bloody fuse.. it related to the cooling fans, rad & intercooler.. and now not having any fans no matter how long it is left running..I'm feeling that it may just be electrical again.. or am I dreaming.....

Titch
 
When you select Drive or Reverse do the engine revs drop slightly as it takes up the extra load?
When you move the gear lever do you feel the normal resistance or is it lose?
When you move the gear lever does the dash display the correct character PRND42 or 1?
When you move the gear lever does the little red LEDs to the rhs of the lever light correctly?
You can inspect the wiring harness and measure the resistance of the solenoids and sensors with a resistance meter or multi meter. Easy first check to do. Have a look at this for info: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/jatco-auto-box-true-231171-2.html
Also check the earth point for the cooling fans and auto gearbox are connected to earth and tight. They're located between the passenger headlight and battery, if you look down between them. One is on the horizontal metal stud and the other on the inner wing stud metal.
Hopefully a fault code reader will pick something up.
There's also ashcroft transmissions in luton which may be closer.

My hippo has a random down change problem that only happens when the air con is running. Hence fans are running too. Still looking for my fault. It sounds like your problem is in a similar area. Look for broken wires in the wiring harness, barrel connectors come apart (twist to lock), earth come oft and check for power on the fuse which blow'd before, with respect to earth (volt meter on DC setting and 1 probe on the fuse and other probe on a suitable earth).

It does sound like it's an electrical fault.
 
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Hi Hippo,
VERY interesting post, Thank You.

No drop in revs in any shift position.
All feels loose with no resistance at all.
All digits, on console by lever & on dash correct to respective position of the lever.
Park, does park, then I guess that's a mechanical bit?? and you still have to put your foot on the brake to physically move the shift lever from Park position to any other lever position, I guess that's electrical??

So, I shall look at these block connectors and that earth you mention..I'm no mechanic, but if I can just get my hands in & around the connectors I will do an inspection/test around those areas.
Luckily I work from home, although I tend to be busy, which is good, the only push is the 'other arf' wanting the car.. otherwise this Freelander would be leaving.....
Great all rounder for her, especially around here, but the electronics of modern motors is slowly grinding me down...
Thanks very very much for the input here.. I will reply!!
Titch
 
titch I might have given you the wrong number so here it is 313492 I called in today and they said it could be anything as said great guy's all brothers you have the std code
 
OK, noted the number thanks.
I haven't gotton checking fluid levels either yet.. time & patience today... turned into another manic day.. but a guy did come with snap on diagnostic kit but cannot get to read at all, suggested fail in cars cables to read.... tomorrow is manic again, still working now in readiness, Wednesday will have to be put aside for the Freelander troubles.. or some of it.. But, I DO appreciate all help here...
Titch
 
Yep,
taking the car, on a trailer, to the guy that came to it yesterday.. similar to before, the car can't read the computer when plugged in.. that on it's own is an issue before we start to see if it can find any fault codes....

I'll let you know, it may just helps someone else sometime......
 
DUKE OF OFFLEY said:
Hi Hippo,
VERY interesting post, Thank You.

No drop in revs in any shift position. that would suggest it's not putting the auto into "gear" to tell it to move the car, or if it is telling it to it's not due to a fault.
All feels loose with no resistance at all. Lever resistance should be normal and sounds like it's working ok as the position is on the dash/leds.
All digits, on console by lever & on dash correct to respective position of the lever. The hand lever moves a selector lever on the bottom of the auto which moves a switch on top of the auto which supplies signals through the smaller of the 2 barrel connectors to the auto's computer so it knows what position the hand lever is in, and what your requesting it to do. The same signals are fed to the LEDs by the hand lever. So that proves yer hand lever is reporting correctly to the LEDs and hopefully to the auto's computer if the wiring is ok.
Park, does park, then I guess that's a mechanical bit?? yep it's mechanical and you still have to put your foot on the brake to physically move the shift lever from Park position to any other lever position, I guess that's electrical?? electrical and mechanical. There's a mechanical interlock thing on the hand lever which connects to the rear of the ignition via a cord. It stops yer removing the key unless the hand lever is in park. You have to apply the brake to allow yer to take it out of park for safety reasons. Key must be in position 2 to do this (engine running or oft). I thnk there's and electrical check ere too but can't remember as it's late.
...
Click to expand...
some comments in red above

The fact that it allows you to turn the key and start the engine means it's happy that the starts conditions have been met = hand lever reported as being in park or neutral etc. The LED's displaying correctly (only 1 at a time) proves the lever position is being reported correctly too. I would hope the auto's computer could also see it correctly too.

From what I understand the auto's computer also tells the engines computer what gear it's in, via the can bus. The engine computer tells the display what character to display via the can bus too. So that is proof yer auto's computer is doing something and able to talk on the can bus to the other computers. So I'm not sure why you can't talk to the auto computer via the odbii socket unless there's a fault like a wire fell'd oft or the device yer using dun't know how to talk to the auto's computer. Can you talk with the engine computer on odbii and see live data?

I'm wondering if you have a problem related to the one before when fuse 4 blow'd. Would be worth checking for voltage being present on that fuse when the ignition is on and check the power after this too.
 
This is all helping, giving me a picture on the computer side a bit, thanks.
My phrase, 'All feels loose with no resistance'.... thinking again, that sounds like you can 'slide' the lever effortlessly, I may be wrong there.. it isn't sloppy as such, but yes I suppose it does feel quite normal.. we are not actually mechanically 'shifting' anything... so let's assume it's feeling as it should then really. sorry.

To be honest, I'm not totally sure what my man used computer wise, Snap On kit, plugged into somewhere under the dashboard.. I'm sure it was that computer that couldn't 'access' the gearbox side of the programme.. which we had before when he deduced that No. 4 fuse... but my man here thinks that because we can't 'read' the gearbox, we need to get to that first to see if it tells us anything..... is that correct?
I've no experience in this field at all.. so hoping, and trying, to relay his words accurately.
He's suggesting getting an electrical guy look at this side...so that's todays plan....
I'll report back when I hear from him, may be a day or two... but again, I'm taking all on board what's being said here.... Top Banana!
Titch
 
A hawkeye with Freelander 1 license will be able to read yer auto's computer. It's the option to take to see if it knows what the problems is. While yer there also look for codes in the engine computer too. odbii socket is in the passenger footwell on the transmission tunnel. There may be someone on ere localish to you with a hawkeye.
 
Well guys, I'm no further forward...
My garage man can't get anyone with computers to call in.. we had one guy but just said the same about 'can't read it'
Now I learn that the 'other 'arf' says that the gearbox sounded as though it slipped a bit then just stopped... great eh? wish she'd said that to me.
So, genuinely I think I'm looking at a ******* auto box in reality.. I think I'm left with the option of stripping or selling the car as a 'faulty gearbox' TD4 great engine etc but otherwise tidy enough motor... shame, real shame......
I'll get it back here next week & make my decisions.
If there's anyone local to me, Stafford being the nearest town, please give me a shout, otherwise it's going up for sale..but thank you everyone for your help & ideas so far.

Titch ( Duke of Offley )
 
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