the hooded claw
Well-Known Member
It a "THING" (Bit like a PERMINANT POST) that sits at the top of the first page .. & its EASIER to find for info ect ect ....
It a "THING" (Bit like a PERMINANT POST) that sits at the top of the first page .. & its EASIER to find for info ect ect ....
Thanks for the replies, I am going to wd40 those rusty fuel connections, (how much force do I need to use on those nuts? and try and loosen that electrical connector too, I have noticed on the car in general that most of the electrical connectors are fairly good, but disconnecting them is really difficult.
I am going to try and remove the pump today and put it back as a test while my new pump arrives.
Any other tips or tools you can recommend for this job?
I am going to try and remove the pump today and put it back as a test while my new pump arrives.
Any other tips or tools you can recommend for this job?
TAKdriver
Active Member
That's a good move to get things moving while you wait for the pump. Will also give you time to familiarise with reconnecting.
Put one spanner on the nut on the fuel line and keep it upright at 90* : put the second on the longer nut at the tank end and put the force on it keeping the fuel line one steady.
The leccy connector has a clip/retainer at your left hand side as you look at it lying in the boot.Depress it and wiggle the plug .
Don't forget to plug and mark your fuel lines for In & Out : for replacing I went to a local blacksmith and got (free) an offcut of mild steel : I sprayed it approx red (!) : I drilled a hole at 3 o/c and 9 o/c each side then marked their position on the floor on each side of the hole. I think I have also found a better fixing for it than my first but I'll get back to you on that : In the meantime any solid cover will do ( I cut and used an old table mat as my template !....I ended up leaving it in place for a week and the carpet kept in in place.)
wil2813
Well-Known Member
been doing it this way for about 7 yrs ,cut the carpet with a stanley knife and ive found the best way to attack the floor is with a chissell (seriously)about 2" wide attacking on a almost horizontall angle.cut floor in a u shape as viewed inside the boot facing forward,then it can be peeled open and then after refitting pushed back down and sealed with the good old gaffer tape.if your really tight go down your locall breakers yard and get a pump out of a rover 200 series dismantle the bottom pot and remove old pump fit new one with a bit of a mod, job done all in £10
Just been out again to look at how much access I actually have, I may have to cut just a bit more towards the edge of the seat so i can get a spanner in position ( I have been thinking maybe I should have removed the seat altogether?) The thinner piece of semi rigid plastic is where most of the resistance is...
As for the re fixing of the access hatch, i am thinking about using a couple of strips of steel and making a three tabs at 3, 6 and 9 oclock, riviting them to the hatch "door" and then just use some self tapping screws to secure them down. Then just either silicone or duck tape to keep moisture out.
BTW what are the fuel lines made from?- mine look like they are made from a plastic fuel pipe, defo not any type of metal.
As for the re fixing of the access hatch, i am thinking about using a couple of strips of steel and making a three tabs at 3, 6 and 9 oclock, riviting them to the hatch "door" and then just use some self tapping screws to secure them down. Then just either silicone or duck tape to keep moisture out.
BTW what are the fuel lines made from?- mine look like they are made from a plastic fuel pipe, defo not any type of metal.
TAKdriver
Active Member
Fuel lines are plastic : that's why I emphasised keeping the nut on the line side rigid. You don't want to risk kinking the fuel line so apply all pressure to the longer nut on the tank end.
I did not find it necessary to remove the seat. Have a look at the pics I posted.
Pump arrived, its a britpart one - but I have been assured that the new britpart is much better quality than a year ago. ( Not a massive hassle now as the hatch makes like a bit better to change over.)
I did read about replacing the tank retainer seal.. is this really required to be replaced?
I wanted to know if anyone else has experience of Britpart Intank fuel pump only. What was the warranty claim like if any?
thanks
I did read about replacing the tank retainer seal.. is this really required to be replaced?
I wanted to know if anyone else has experience of Britpart Intank fuel pump only. What was the warranty claim like if any?
thanks
TAKdriver
Active Member
I didn't replace my tank seal. By the way insert the seal into tank first then carefully insert pump.
They are warranted for 40,000 miles or five minutes whichever is the soonest.
the hooded claw
Well-Known Member
gemsdad
NOT BOTHERED.
Silicone is no problem with diesel, however the acetic acid given off as the silicone cures does not like bare metal. Or should i say it does like bare metal, it eats it.
TAKdriver
Active Member
This has turned into quite a post to my surprise.
Thinking of turning it into a book.....maybe even a movie.
Update:
All replaced, needed more planning and patience than I thought. One of the nuts was really tight, all the corrosion had "welded" them together and it took me 30 mins of wd40 and tapping, until it released free.
On a quick inspection of the old pump, it was the original pump, 104k, NO split pipes, actually they were quite strong and flexible. So i reckon it has to be the motor (brushes) which have worn out. Went for a quick spin after the job and, not noted any performance difference yet, but it certainly does start instantly, just like when the tank is full.
Checked the flow and return pipes the flow was weeping a tiny bit, so just tweeked them up a little more and have duck taped up the hatch for now ( one more inspection in a few days) , waiting for my rivet gun to arrive...
Very satisfying job actually, happy I saved a small fortune by not letting a stealer do it.
If your thinking about doing it- i can recommend investing in a dremel tool, will make your like easy- you can make very accurate cuts and control the depth too. Btw the space between the tank and the body is about 1" clear- the only pipe which is higher up than that is the breather which is about half of that space in a small section.
I will post some pictures later- just going to read how to do that first.
All replaced, needed more planning and patience than I thought. One of the nuts was really tight, all the corrosion had "welded" them together and it took me 30 mins of wd40 and tapping, until it released free.
On a quick inspection of the old pump, it was the original pump, 104k, NO split pipes, actually they were quite strong and flexible. So i reckon it has to be the motor (brushes) which have worn out. Went for a quick spin after the job and, not noted any performance difference yet, but it certainly does start instantly, just like when the tank is full.
Checked the flow and return pipes the flow was weeping a tiny bit, so just tweeked them up a little more and have duck taped up the hatch for now ( one more inspection in a few days) , waiting for my rivet gun to arrive...
Very satisfying job actually, happy I saved a small fortune by not letting a stealer do it.
If your thinking about doing it- i can recommend investing in a dremel tool, will make your like easy- you can make very accurate cuts and control the depth too. Btw the space between the tank and the body is about 1" clear- the only pipe which is higher up than that is the breather which is about half of that space in a small section.
I will post some pictures later- just going to read how to do that first.
TAKdriver
Active Member
Glad it worked out for you. You've saved a bob or two.
TAKdriver
Active Member
You shouldn't need a re-sync.
