hello folks

i have a couple of questions for you guys that have the synergy 2a+ fitted to your td4.

first off i got mines about 2 months ago and to be truthful cant feel the difference all filters have been changed even the turbo vent filter. egr bypass has been fitted and inlet manifold cleaned. i also got the new maf and dash switch with the synergy. my last brim to brim worked out at 23 mpg 50% motorway and 50% town driving sticking to speed limits. surely theres something wrong?

i use 2 stroke oil and millers eco stuff in every tank full of diesel

i just cant feel any difference between the 3 settings on the dash switch i have the synergy set at 7 and both switches are on

it talks about in the instructions that when your using the dash switch that you can change the setting from eco/off/power with out lifting off the accelerator but the change will only take affect once you lift off it says the lights on the switch will dim and when the change takes affect the light will brighten to confirm the change has taken place. now my lights just stays bright all the time


can any of you guys shed any light on this for me its starting to drive me nuts

btw ive just put a new exhaust on it ( center and backbox) as it was getting a bit past it and thought it might be blocked. mileage is 106000 miles


mark

my changes as it should if i were you i would unplug the switch set synergy on 10 and try that.
you should notice a diffrence if you do you switch could be faulty

I agree with rhodie.

I have the same set up as you, but use Nr. 8 on the Synergy box.

The difference in acceleration between the red and the green is like chalk and cheese.

Going from say 40 to 60mph in 5th gear there should be a very obvious difference.

cheers for the reply's guys.i will give that a go this afternoon and report back.

am hope its something as simple as a faulty switch because ive double checked all plugs and maf are as they should be . its got me stumped no black smoke etc under hard acceleration etc

mark

Talking about fuel consumption with the Synergy 2A. Just been on one of my rare longish distance (for me) trips and got the following consumption figures. 370 miles averaging 65 mph mainly Mway and Dual carriageway driving 31 mpg, 270 miles averaging 72 mph mainly Mway and Dual carriageway 27 mpg, local round town driving light traffic 23 mpg. Synergy, with Pierburg MAF, set on 7 and three position in cab switch on green. I suppose it just proves that pushing a fairly high wind resistant vehicle just 7 mph faster results in a drastic increase in fuel consumption.

nickcc said:

Talking about fuel consumption with the Synergy 2A. Just been on one of my rare longish distance (for me) trips and got the following consumption figures. 370 miles averaging 65 mph mainly Mway and Dual carriageway driving 31 mpg, 270 miles averaging 72 mph mainly Mway and Dual carriageway 27 mpg, local round town driving light traffic 23 mpg. Synergy, with Pierburg MAF, set on 7 and three position in cab switch on green. I suppose it just proves that pushing a fairly high wind resistant vehicle just 7 mph faster results in a drastic increase in fuel consumption.

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Although it's pretty near impossible to improve on the aerodynamic performance of a brick, I've tried to improve my mpg at minimal cost.

One piece aero blades - they must work as less flies hit the screen.
EGR Bonnet edge protector - again even light rain is deflected higher over the screen at high speed (60+)
Roof-Box polished. As well as whole vehicle - especially bonnet and roof.
EGR Clear plastic headlamp protectors.
Tie-down loop and hole in front valance taped over with duct tape -also keeps out crud, stones & snow.
All holes in engine-bay slam-panel plugged or taped over - to improve air-flow through radiator.
Air-con cold feed pipe insulated with closed cell foam lagging - to increase efficiency and reduce load on compressor. It means the air from the vents can be as low as 2°C.

I did think of taking the mud-flaps off over the summer - but thought that that was just going a bit too far.

Individually some of these mods may seem trivial, or even crazy - but I'm convinced it does help, and with the price of fuel ever increasing ...........

i have the bonet protector and it works great as well as really protecting the edge of the bonet but my biggest down fall is my big roof rack with those big lights on it.also the new a frame with lights on ,this is all weight i could do without, as well as side steps a back a frame a tow bar and all the other bits and bobs that weigh a ton i bet my kerb weight is a lot higher. oh I for got my rear step

Hmm now heres something to note i changed the maf plug round that plugs into the cars maf plug and the engine rev's from 800rpm to 2000rpm 0.2 of a second faster than it did before and seems alot more willing to rev. I mean the white dot is at the wrong side if you know what i mean? There is a bit of black smoke now tho under hard acceleration

Any thoughts guys

Mark

Singvogel said:

Although it's pretty near impossible to improve on the aerodynamic performance of a brick, I've tried to improve my mpg at minimal cost.

One piece aero blades - they must work as less flies hit the screen.
EGR Bonnet edge protector - again even light rain is deflected higher over the screen at high speed (60+)
Roof-Box polished. As well as whole vehicle - especially bonnet and roof.
EGR Clear plastic headlamp protectors.
Tie-down loop and hole in front valance taped over with duct tape -also keeps out crud, stones & snow.
All holes in engine-bay slam-panel plugged or taped over - to improve air-flow through radiator.
Air-con cold feed pipe insulated with closed cell foam lagging - to increase efficiency and reduce load on compressor. I means the air from the vents can be as low as 2°C.

I did think of taking the mud-flaps off over the summer - but thought that that was just going a bit too far.

Individually some of these mods may seem trivial, or even crazy - but I'm convinced it does help, and with the price of fuel ever increasing ...........

Click to expand...

As you do many long journeys I can understand why you go to such extremes, as most of my journeys are no more than 10 miles I just accept the higher consumption. On my occasional longer journeys keeping within the posted speed limits would almost certainly save money but as I prefer to get my journeys over as soon as possible sticking to the legal maximum limit seems very unattractive.

nickcc said:

As you do many long journeys I can understand why you go to such extremes, as most of my journeys are no more than 10 miles I just accept the higher consumption. On my occasional longer journeys keeping within the posted speed limits would almost certainly save money but as I prefer to get my journeys over as soon as possible sticking to the legal maximum limit seems very unattractive.

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Of course you're quite right Nick.

Even small savings mount up.

Last week I used something like 320 litres - almost all on motorways at around 75 to 80mph.

mark666freelander said:

Hmm now heres something to note i changed the maf plug round that plugs into the cars maf plug and the engine rev's from 800rpm to 2000rpm 0.2 of a second faster than it did before and seems alot more willing to rev. I mean the white dot is at the wrong side if you know what i mean? There is a bit of black smoke now tho under hard acceleration

Any thoughts guys

Mark

Click to expand...

I accidentally did that and it put the orange warning light on, and the tick over was lumpy.

Best talk to Rover Ron directly I think.

Singvogel said:

I accidentally did that and it put the orange warning light on, and the tick over was lumpy.

Best talk to Rover Ron directly I think.

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cheers mate i think i will give them a phone tomorrow


mark